How to Troubleshoot & Replace Ge AP2044374 / WE25X60 Slide Kit

First I moved the dryer out of its niche so I could easily get to the front and back. Then I removed screws holding the top to the front panel, having taken a photo of the wiring harness wires to the door light and switch and removing enough wires that I could prop the top up by laying it backward and leaning it on a nearby shelf. (I would not have just let the top hang.) Then I loosened the two screws on the bottom of the front panel and removed the two backward-facing screws on the upper inboard side to the left and the right. The front panel then swiveled to the right and leaned against the dryer. I took the time to remove the light to vacuum its socket and the chamber that holds the lint screen. On the backside, I removed the covers for the power cord, & the center bearing. I took off the power cord and the grounding strap for the bearing then removed the lower back access panel. I pulled the tensioner pulley in to remove the belt from around it and the motor pulley. (I did not take a picture of the belt, but recommend that for first-timers, because it's not always obvious how it goes.) Once the belt was loose I lifted out the drum pulling it with moderate difficulty through the front. Then I thoroughly inspected the heater coils and all the harness wires. I vacuumed out all the surfaces and the exhaust tube. Had it been really linty I would have opened and vacuumed out the impeller housing on the front of the motor. I replaced the glides on the front of the door (2 screws each on mine) and checked the felt ring around the drum. I found where a wire had rubbed against the frame until the insulation failed, which caused a short circuit and tripped the breaker. I took out 4 bolts to remove the bearing sleeve guide (rectangular) and its worn bushing. This was in the center of the heater coil panel. I took 3 screws out of the inside of the drum to remove the mandrel and that drum rotates on. It took two people to put the new one on, and it helps to mark the screw holes. Mine had 5 possible holes for 3 screws, and would only go on one way. Figure it out first. I could not find directions about greasing the center bearing, so I used white lithium grease. When I was throwing stuff out, I found two small tubes of grease in the packaging. The directions with the bearing were so badly translated that it was humorous. But don't be put off, it's not hard. If your old bearing was secured in the back with a C clamp, rejoice like I did that the new one has the bushing pre-installed and locked on with a pressure ring. A friend had replaced the center bearing about 5 years ago, and not replace the glides. That was a mistake. He did not level the dryer, so it leaned forward, that was a mistake. replace the glides and label your dryer left and right, and front to back. It's easy to tilt the dryer and turn the legs, then recheck the level. Re-assembly was the reverse of assembly. I observed that the side panel and top panels have metal tabs and slots to aid alignment. Sometimes I had to lean on the dryer to get everything to line up. It will. I did clean around the dryer's niche and vacuumed out the flexible exhaust tube. It runs like a dream! This took me 2+ hours, but I was working on a porch in over 95-degree weather with much humidity, so I took many cool down breaks. It was worth it. The "other" tools were a wire cutter/stripper to cut and splice the frayed wire, and a smartphone for taking pictures. 

I replaced the drum bearing in the back and also the nylon sliders in the front. It rook some time but was not difficult. I took some extra time to thoroughly clean all the lint from the inside. 

I removed the drum unit and replaced the rear bearing and the front drum sliders. Since the dryer is 20 years old, I also replaced the drive belt and idler pulley. After 20 years of use they were worn. Also, I got enough lint out of the dryer housing to build a sofa cushion! 

Did some research online and the recommended solution was to replace the bad glides. So far everything is working great. No more streaks!!! 

Received my order overnight, but it took me a couple of days to get the belt on as I took to much apart at first and looking at videos could not find my model and all the videos showed the person sliding their arms in through the front of the dryer to attach the belt to the tensioner which was impossible for me. Thinking I was smart I knocked out a 4-5 " knock out plate but only got one arm in to reach the tensioner. Anyway on the back was a large black metal panel that was held on by six nut drive screws. I removed it and within a minute I had the belt attached and the panel back in place, and everything works great now. I assume all the videos I watched were later models. I wish my exact model was shown it would have saved me two days. I hope youtube crew will film this model for guys like me. LOL 

Having replaced the rear bearing assembly several years ago, I took the dryer apart and began looking elsewhere for the problem. I discovered the idler pulley was nearly destroyed after 32 years of service. With the dryer being this old, I decided to order and replace the two front slides, and I also ordered a new drive belt to have on hand in case it needed changing (the original had already been replaced with the bearing assembly work, and this second belt was still in great shape). I replaced the pulley and the slides, and the dryer runs great and very quiet. As good as new! 

Took sheet metal off machine and removed two screws that held the slide. applied the new part ,screws and sheetmetal 

With ease and confidence. Shipping was ultra quick, and the video instructions helpful...fix it yourself - less stressful and likely faster. 

Had intermittent high frequency squealing for a long time. Recently wouldn't start. Dryer is > 30 yr old. After watching several repair videos on the site, ordered rear bearing kit, front sliders, drive belt, and door switch. Switch selected has higher amp rating since original one not available except on eBay for astronomical price. Recut switch cutout using a Dremel cutoff blade. Crimped on new switch disconnects due to larger size. Disassembly showed rear bearing was totally destroyed, one front slide had worn through to felt, other had cracked through. Drum removal was a bit difficult since dryer model has spot welded front panel so couldn't spread the two side walls apart as shown in the repair video. New rear bearing doesn't use bearing washers or retainer clip to keep drum from moving forward. Also, took some extra time to clean out all the lint and clean all electrical contacts using DeOxit. Started up and operates like brand new. Parts arrived within 1 day. Excellent service. Videos on site are an invaluable resource. 

Replaced drum bearing and slides