How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP6006327 / WP22002934 Bearing, Front

This is not an easy job without the specialized 'Tony Tool' which seemed to me overpriced even to rent. Once I had the unit disassembled the tub was easily removed. Likewise I was able to pull the rear bearing with a pilot bearing puller. The front one however was a bear to get out. I have a decent shop but my pilot bearing puller was not strong enough. I decided to make a puller using a 1/2 inch cap screw about 6 inches long. I plasma cut some steel plate to fit the inside of the bearing and a plate on the tub side spanning the opening drilling a hole in both for the extraction screw.. I then welded a nut to the tub side plate to draw the two together and extract the bearing. I put a huge pressure on the bearing even turned the extraction screw with an impact wrench but it would not move. The 'Tony Tool' guy pushes it out from the back side with a PVC plug.. not this bearing. I used a 4 lb slap hammer, air hammer, and almost anything I could find but the bearing would not move. Finally, I decided to use my dremel tool with a reenforce cutting disk and cut the bearing out. I could have saved a lot of frustration if I had done that earlier, but I was afraid of damaging the seats. Reinstall of the bearings went well, again used a big bolt and a couple of big washers to seat the bearings. I made an alignment tool for the center sleeve out of a rolled up piece of cardboard and pulled it all together. The lip seal went in just like the video with no problem. I have purchased parts from Appliance Parts Pros before and this order was just like the rest, delivered on time with the right parts. This was a good repair and if you like to work on things it most likely can be done with tools in your shop, and a little ingenuity. 

I used the instructions from some of your previous customers. When I was ready to pull the inner tub from the outer tub, it pulled very hard. The front bearing had been HOT and really marked the shaft. The SEAL appeared to be almost plastic, not much left. I removed the seal from the Front bearing. This model had the original type seal with the plastic spacer behind the seal and in front of the front bearing.. BE SURE TO NOTE HOW THE PLASTIC SPACER CAME OUT--feet on spacer toward the face of the Front bearing. The seal went and also took the FRONT bearing with it. Next, I removed the rear bearing. You will need heavy duty SNAP RING pliers for the 2 3/4 inch snap ring at the rear of the back bearing. I was able to pull the rear bearing with a slide hammer puller. NOTE- the bearing was seated just at the edge of the SNAP RING groove. I was not lucky on the front bearing-it was taken out by grinding out the inner race and them grinding out the outer race. NOTE- the depth of the front bearing in the housing, just at the outer edge of the alum. housing. In the housing for the front and rear bearings, you will find a metal spacer. THE SPACER HAS A FLAT END ON ONE END AND A TAPERED END ON THE OPPOSITE END--Tapered end goes toward the REAR bearing-because that bearing is smaller. Clean the bearing housings well with emery cloth-so the bearing will go in a little easier than they came out. I also put NEVER -SEEZ on the housing and the outer edge of each bearing ( two unlike materials). Clean everything real well and follow the instructions for the seal. Bearing numbers-Front--WP22002934 and rear WP22003441 

Replaced the front and rear bearing and the seal. It took me five hours to do this, now if you take out the smoke and coffee breaks could have done it in a lot less time, overall it was not to difficult but I am also a diesel mechanic so I am used to beating out and replacing bearings plus I worked at Whirlpool for 30 years. The problem I had at first was finding the parts, our local parts house could only get the complete drum assembly.... But then I found your website, Called, ordered parts and got them in two days.... Thank you very much... 

I replaced the front and back bearings and the seal. I used a specially made bearing puller called the "Tony Tool" 

The front bearing was no good. when the machine would try to spin it was off balance, so being a smart washer it would shut itself down. since i had to replace the bearing i decided to do preventive maintenance by replacing the lip seal and rear bearing. the unbalance switch was added in as well. My washing machine works like New. Saved a lot of money by doing it my self. thank you for your how to video and parts. 

Ordered the bearings and seal kit from here, delivery was really quick. Watched their video on replacing the seal kit, the machine is easy to take apart just follow the video. Then came the bearing removal. I used a drift (long punch) to punch about the rear (smaller bearing), not too bad. Then came the front bearing. I tried punching it our by various means, even used a big socket and 4lb sledge, could not get it to move. Finally I went to Sears and bought a simple steering wheel puller for around 25 bucks, then got some big "grade 8" washers and 2 grade 8 nuts at my local hardware, made my own puller and was able to pull the front bearing out! If you don't get grade 8, the washers will bend! Okay, here's a tip. Put the new bearings in the freezer for a few hours, this will help them go into place with very little effort. I also LIGHTLY heated the aluminum bearing housing with propane torch. Just warm it up a bit, bearings slid right in. Cleaned up the tub shaft and installed new seal kit. Voila! Went back together easily. Runs smooth and quiet now! Had I had the puller to start with, the project would have taken about 3-4 hours total. If I have to ever do another one, I think I could get er done in about 2 hours. 

Removed basket new bearing & support 

Replaced bearings and lip seal kit. Along with these I replaced the door boot seal that had significant mold (not replaced under earlier recall). Amazingly, cleaning mess left by failed seal and bearings along with residues from years of use took as long as the repair. You-rube videos were helpful along with video from Appliance Parts Pros 

Followed video and written directions to remove door, panels, tub seal and pull inner tub with shaft. Replaced both front (#22002934) and rear (#22003441) bearings along with the 'Lip Seal Kit'(#12002022). Lip seal failure is reason the front bearing had begun to fail and make the noise during spin cycle. Inner tub with shaft came out of inner bearings fairly easy but the challenge came in attempting to press out the old bearings and press in the new bearings. A 14" brass drift pin and hammer was very slow so I opted for a pneumatic chisel with the end blunted like a drift pin. Proved to be much more effective but had to use caution not to mar adjacent metal with steel pin. Took around five hours but almost half of that time was spent cleaning twelve years of scum, mold, and yuck. How can a washing machine be that dirty? 

Replaced both the front and rear bearings and the front seal. The front bearing had failed. This is not an easy repair without the proper tools for removing the old bearing or installing the new bearings. There are Youtube videos that show the repair. I did the repair without a bearing puller or press but it was not easy. I also pressure washed the inner and outer drum as there was a lot of crud buildup over the years. My washer is 14 years old and with the new bearings it should go several more years.