How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP3098345 / 349241T Dryer Rear Drum Support Roller Kit

The new support wheel came in 3 days. The replacement process was simple: 1. Remove bottom dryer cover from front by pulling upper potion which was retained by 2 spring clips and lift up from bottom spring support; 2. Remove support wheel axel support bracket by unscrewing attachment screw with screw driver (a sprocket wrench would have been better), The bracket was located toward the back, so the working space was a little tight because it was bounded by the dryer drum and the side panel. It was dark, so used a small flashlight. 3. Pull off support bracket retainer from wheel axel by first prying lose with screw driver and pulling with plier; 4. Used box wrench to unbolt axel retaining nut from behind back drum support wall which is spaced from the backed of the dryer. The nut is accessed through a service hole of the back drum support wall which has sharp edges. A ratcheting box wrench is preferred because space is limited by the access hole and must operate blind because the nut is behind the back drum support wall; 5. Pull off drum support wheel assembly (axel, support wheel and retaining clips and washers if any) by moving the free end of the axel away from the drum to clear the support wheel assembly from the wheel grove on the drum and pull free from the axel mounting hole; 6. Remove support wheel. remove plastic triangular clip by cutting it, for example, because new ones are supplied with the support wheel; and 7. Reverse the above steps to reinstall. 

Viewing through the hole in the front panel, I could see the ignitor heating and the flame igniting then extinguishing after a couple of minutes. From this the ignitor and flame sensor were eliminated whereupon I focused my attention to the valve coils. Disassembled the dryer and measure the resistance between the 2 terminals of the secondary coil and all combinations of the 3 terminals of the boost/hold coil which all exhibited values slightly higher than specification limits. Puzzled, I reconnected everything started the dryer less the drum and observed the normal startup and the flame igniting then once again the flame extinguished. I immediately (within a minute) remeasured the resistance of the valve coils and found the 2 terminal secondary coil was now reading open with slightly higher resistances on all combinations of the 3 terminals of the boost/hold coil. After about 20 minutes, the secondary coil resistance returned to the original resistance value so I reconnected everything and started the dryer where once again the flame came for a few minutes then extinguished. I immediately measured the resistance of both coils and confirmed the 2 terminal secondary coil was open. As the open condition only occurred after the secondary coil had been energized, it was deduced that the open circuit was heat related within the coil. I guess my message here is that just measuring the coil resistance alone may not detect an intermittent problem like I had (unless your initial resistance values are way out of spec or showing an open circuit) and that evaluation of the coils needs to be made immediately after the failure occurs. Since replacing both coils, my 25 year old dryer is functioning properly. 

Got the Rear Drum Support Repair Kit and it took about 15 minutes to change them and put the dryer back together. 

Replaced both rollers and hardware with parts from " Rear Drum Support Roller Kit" 

I checked the continuity on the thermal fuse (which was blown) and knew that it needed to be replaced. This made me question why it blew (i.e. what caused it to fail). I checked continuity on the thermostat (high limit) as well as the thermostat for the element. Both passed a continuity test, so I removed the high limit thermostat to inspect it and could hear it rattling inside. This leads me to believe the spring inside had failed, so I replaced this thermostat as well. Put it back together and it is working like new. 

17 year old Whirlpool dryer started squeaking when running. Replaced the rear drum support rollers, and while I was in there, replaced the belt and idler pulley. The original idler pulley was a friction part with no roller. With the new parts installed, this old dryer runs smooth and quiet. 

Pulled dryer out to have access. Removed front, rear, and top panels. Removed drum. Found right side drum support roller severely damaged and shaft badly scored and grooved. Shaft replacement required four additional screw to be removed to move blower housing for access to shaft nut. Inside of dryer was heavily fouled with lint; considerable amount time was spent cleaning with scraper, wire brush and vacuum cleaner. 

Took off front panel, lifted out drum and had access to the rollers. Pulled roller off shaft and then backed out nut to hold shaft in place. The old shaft was not in bad shape, but had ordered a new one and replaced shaft and roller. Installed shaft with roller, secured with nut in the back. Installed drum, with belt around motor and put front panel back on. 

Replaced both support wheels and changed the idler pulley as well while I had it disassembled. Quick fix. 

I took it apart and found a wheel that a bearing had gone out on and it was out of balance.. Ordered the new parts and installed them .. works great now sounds like a new one !!!!