How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP6008371 / WP339956 Lint Screen Housing Foam Seal

I noticed that my dryer was way too hot, even when I had turned the heat down to its lowest setting. I had previously replaced the following items: dryer thermal fuse, heating element, high-limit thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse (thermal cut-off kit). All of these items were replaced due to the dryer constantly losing heat. These parts successfully restored the heat, but now I noticed the heat was way too hot. I realized that what I needed was a new cycling thermostat. According to my multimeter, the thermostat still had continuity. However, I realized that the heat was not cycling on and off as it should. This repair was SUPER easy to do...LESS than 15 min. I am happy to report that my 32-year-old dryer is functioning properly again. If it wasn't for this site and the EXCELLENT repair videos, I would not be able to make these repairs on my own. 

Per your video. We replaced the coil kit and the thermal fuse 

Just replaced the Lint Filter, 30-second fix. 

Took apart, ran tests, cleaned years of lint buildup in the entire dryer, and replaced gaskets and venting. Thanks to your videos and parts availability, this would not have happened. RK > Richton Park, Illinois 

Cleaned duct, and replaced the Thermal fuse, Coil kit, Igniter kit, and Flame sensor. No prev. experience. The videos & parts diagrams here were super easy to follow. Dryer working like new again THANKS !! Saved a repair call, possibly saved from buying a new dryer not adding more trash to haul off. Self-satisfaction from DIY is so awesome. 

Replaced heating element, thermal fuse, cycling thermostat, thermal cut off kit, lint screen housing foam seal, and seal at the blower. The repair was just as described in the video except the thermostat connecting to the heating element showed an orange wire and my dryer does not have an orange wire. The part you sent has an instruction sheet with it which accurately describes how to connect the thermostat to the heating element, with and without the orange wire. Once I followed the written instruction sheet, it was done quickly. The dryer runs better than it has in years. Please continue to put that instruction sheet with the part. The website was extremely helpful, and user friendly. Matching my model number was helpful. Thank you. Based on the serial number, I think my dryer dates from 1993. Having next day delivery was also very helpful. 

After opening up the backside of the dryer I first checked the various parts using a multimeter and everything seemed to be in order. With the back open I switched on the dryer. I could see the gas lighting up and shut down after 30 sec. After a min or two the gas lit up again but only stayed on for 10 sec. At this time I now assumed it was a coil or ignitor area issue. I took out the drum and front part. I took out the coil and tested the resistance but it was showing as working. Since that gas was lightning I eliminated that it was a lighter issue. I ordered the Gas Valve Coil Kitl since by virtue of elimination it seemed to be the issue that would cause the gas to open and shut off in an inconsistent manner. I replaced the coils and switched on the dryer without the drum or backside on. I saw the flame was consistent now. Assembled everything back and also took the opportunity to vacuum and clean any lint that had collected inside over the past 20 years. 

Ordered new gaskets and installed them per instructions provided on your website. Hardest part of job was moving the dryer in and out and re-attaching the dryer vent connector between the dryer and the wall. Thank you! 

I replaced the Cycle Thermostat and Lint Screen Housing Foam Seal. I also vacuumed out the lint. You need to ensure the vent is firmly connected to the dryer with the vent clamp. The dryer vent connection is semi-difficulty to see, so double-check the vent is firmly connected I replaced the aluminum elbow to connect the vent to the dryer. 

Scrape off old gasket seal, and apply new one per instructional video.