Tim March 17, 2025 for Model Number 1108687070 The parts diagram shows this foam seal fits my model for the top of the lint chute. When I took the lent chute out, I have another foam seal on the bottom of the lent chute at the motor housing but the parts diagram does not show one. What foam seal should I order to replace the bottom seal at the motor housing?
1 Answer Tim, The manufacturer does not list a seal for the bottom of the housing but you can use the same one as for the upper part. Read More...
Cc July 04, 2019 for Model Number 11086872100 I ordered seal 339956. There is no adhesive on it. Can I use the adhesive that I used on the drum seal?
1 Answer CC, The WP339956 Lint Screen Housing Foam Seal, should have a paper or light cardboard covering on one side of the seal " Dryer foam seal with adhesive backing. This seal goes between the lint chute and the bulkhead. 28 in." ? If the adhesive or the adhesive cover is missing or damaged, then use the high temp. adhesive you used on the drum seal, but be cautious too much adhesive isn't good, either. Apply a small bead of adhesive to the bulkhead, allow a few minutes for the adhesive to get "tacky" then apply the seal to the adhesive. Thanks, Read More...
Wanda February 13, 2018 for Model Number 110669625 What kind of material is the lint screen housing foam seal made of?
1 Answer Hello Wanda. Sorry, the manufacturer does not issue the type of material the seal is made of. You will need to contact them for that information. Thank you. Read More...
Jenny January 09, 2016 for Model Number 339956 Hi! I purchased a foam seal for our lint screen housing on the back of our dryer. We replaced it today and noticed a strange smell coming from the dryer after, almost like a burning plastic. Is this the glue from the foam melting? I'm almost afraid to use the dryer because of the smell. We've cleaned all of the lint out of the blower, trap and vent.
1 Answer Jenny, Yes this smell would most likely be from the foam, the first time that it heats up it could omit an odor as it kinda drys out. This should subside and operate normally. Read More...
Tom January 06, 2015 for Model Number whirlpool LE5790XSNO Besides replacing the lint screen housing foam seal are there any other seals as part of the blower assembly? It looks like there is some type of seal on the lower section between the metal when I take off the 4 screws that hold the housing in place.
Scruffy September 02, 2014 for Model Number LER7646EQO I wish to order a lint seal for my dryer (#73) But when I put that in it comes up 339956 AP32387. When I check compatible it says it doesn't match but doesn't give me the correct part either. Can you assist. Thank you.
1 Answer Hello Scruffy. The model number you provided uses WP349639 for the lint filter. Read More...
Emma June 27, 2014 Hello again. I tested my dryer out, not with wet pillowcases but with 4 wet hand towels. I did not dry them fully dry (maybe 80%) but the airflow out of the vent was relatively consistent except for one long period that lasted at least 10 seconds where no air was coming out (I ran back into the house at that point to check on the dryer and by the time I ran back out the air was coming out fine.) Today I did a load of 2 twin sheets, 3 twin pillowcases and some heavier cotton T-shirts and shorts. I first dried the heavier items with 2 pillowcases (I added the cases to make sure the load wouldn't be too small to tumble properly) and the airflow was relatively good; there were definitely some pauses, though, where no air was flowing out of the vent. Then I took out the cases and did the still damp shirts and shorts with the 2 sheets. It seemed like every other second the air was not flowing out of the vent. I noticed that this caused the outside of the door to get considerably hotter than usual. I opened the door many times (at least 10) and all of those times, nothing was stuck to the grill and everything was tumbling well. The foil vent was jerking constantly (which I have learned corresponded to the airflow being blocked.) I then took out the sheets to finish drying the shirts and shorts and the airflow was much better and the door was considerably cooler. I don't know if the material of the sheets is causing the problem or a fuller load causes a problem. But there definitely seems to be a problem. The question is, is it something I did while trying to get rid of lint from my vent and/or dryer or putting on the foam seals. Any help would be most appreciated because I am at a loss. I really don't want to operate the dryer if it is dangerous to do so. Thank you.
1 Answer Emma, There are a couple of things you may want to re check, but we don't think you'll find an issue. Recheck the seals you installed, and recheck the tumbler seals to make sure they didn't get twisted or are not seated properly. You may want to check the drum RPM (revolution per minute) Open the dryer door, use a piece of tape or something similar and mark the end of one of the baffles, Select a no heat / air fluff cycle, hold the door switch closed and start the machine. Pick a spot on the dryer door opening (door switch, serial tag etc.) and count the rpm. You should average 50 rpm (+/- 1). If the rpm is incorrect you will need to check the dryer belt, rollers and motor. If the tumbler rotates too fast, the clothes have a tendency to "stick" to the drum and not dry properly. If the drum tumbles too slow there's not enough rotation and circulation the properly evaporate the wetness from the clothes. "Mixed" Loads are the hardest to "gauge" and dry, properly. Larger light weight articles (sheets and pillowcases) dry quicker that t-shirts and shorts. It's also possible for the smaller heavier articles ( t-shirts and shorts) to become wrapped inside the larger, lighter articles and remain damp. On a load that's too small, the articles will stick to the dryer exhaust vent housing and block the air flow, causing the dryer door to heat up, and can cause the venting to flex or "jerk". You may want to try larger sized loads, try to fill the dryer with wet clothes to the bottom of the door opening, and no more than half full for a large load. and try to dry all similar sized, and weight loads instead of "Mixed" loads. Read More...
Emma June 23, 2014 for Model Number LGR7648KQ1 I do appreciate your trying to diagnose my problem. Looking at the drum in my dryer, I think it would be rare for a garment to stick to the holes of the exhaust grille because that is set back from the area with the baffles that tumbles the clothes. It seems that the dryer is designed to prevent any sticking from happening on a consistent basis. I don't see how 1 of the 4 dry pillowcases would consistently stick to it. Do you have any other ideas as to what could be causing this interrupted air flow? Anything that I may have done while cleaning the vent, lint housing or replacing the seals? Thank you. In other words, if the airflow was interrupted every few seconds for the whole dryer time, what would be the likelihood that a garment was sticking to it all of those times?
1 Answer Hello Emma. The unit is pulling air through there. The pillow cases are light and dry. Thus the reason they would get sucked into the exhaust and stick for a few seconds. Try running wet ones in it and testing it. Those are heavy, not light. Read More...
Emma June 23, 2014 for Model Number LGR7648KQ1 Thank you for responding. When I put the new seal around the blower wheel, I removed all the lint/dust from between the blades. Nothing seemed amiss with the wheel. If there had been something wrong with the wheel, wouldn't there be a problem with the airflow when the dryer is empty? Why would putting a few dry pillowcases in the drum make a difference in the airflow? Thanks
1 Answer Hello Emma. The only thing that would cause that was if one was sticking on the air return for a few seconds then tumbling. Read More...