Do-It-Yourself Story

Took a bit to diagnose. First tried cleaning coils but the problem still persisted. Next took of the back panel and put the system into diag mode. (Press energy save button and fridge button for eight seconds system ding once a second and inverter board red LED will blink a code or be on solid if no issue. See back of the refrigerator for a sticker with what the number of blinks means. My unit one blinking 1 time. So I measured the resistance of the compressor between windings (8.9 ohms between each of the three pins on CN03 removed from the "Inverter" board. You can do this by removing the OLP assembly from the compressor and go across each of the three pins directly on the compressor as well. Should be around 10 ohms and within 10% of each other. Also, measure between each pin and ground and make sure not shorted, should be open. Also tested OLP relay, See Appliance Parts Pros video how to remove and test OLP. I removed OLP and measured resistance it was closed(shorted) as it should be. Finally used DVM to see the Approximate 2.5 volt signal on CN75 pin 4 on the Main Control board going to the Inverter board. The signal was there so suspected Inverter (Poer Control )board. Removed the Inverter board and could see it had a burned-out area on the back. Ordered Inverter board from ApplianceePros. I had been on phone with Appliance pros when going thru the troubleshooting steps mentioned above. Once the new Inverter board was installed and I plugged the system in I could feel the compressor running. After some time the compressor got warm and it was obvious the Fridge and Freezer were starting to cool. Thanks for all the support AppliancePartsPros. Saved a lot of money !!!!