Frigidaire 5304485917 Washer Shock Absorber Kit OEM Part

I watched the video posted by Jerrod Sessler on yellow van handyman.com. Then I had to unstack the dryer from the washer, remove all covers, disconnect all hose connections, shock mounts and springs and remove the tub assembly. Then I disassembled the tub assembly and remove seal and both bearings from the rear half. At this point I cleaned everything. I installed new bearings and seal, installed the basket and assembled both tub halves using a new gasket and silicone, and reinstalled the tub assembly into the washer. I replaced the broken shock mount at this time and reinstalled/reconnected the pump and motor. Then I ran a load of clothes with the covers off. I had to remove and reconnect the coin trap hose because it was leaking. I also took some time to level the machine, check for shaking and make adjustments, and install lock nuts onto the adjustable feet. After this, everything worked perfectly and I can't believe how quiet the machine is. This project took me about eight hours. I was kind of bummed because Jerrod said it would be a two hour job. Unstacking and re-stacking the dryer, cleaning everything and cutting wood 4x4's to height took some time. After I figured how much I paid for parts and subtracted the total from $600 (approximate cost of similar machine on sale), I discovered my labor was worth about $60/hour and I didn't feel so bad. Plus, we didn't want a new machine (this one came with our home when we purchased it) and now it is like the machine we have is better than ever.

With more difficulty and frustration than expected but it works fine now. Things learned: 1. Order only 3 replacement pins. One comes with the shocks that you can't be sure you see in the picture. 2. A circuit board in a plastic box mounted to the floor, left rear, must be removed by two screws to be able to get pliers onto the head of the pin more easily. This helps installation too. 3. A 1/2" deep socket pushed onto the retaining tab of the pin stays there while you pull with pliers from the other side. 4. The pins are too big to fit into the shock holes but compress to proper size when driven in. 5. I used a sticky grease (common name "gas grease" available at Aircraft Spruce Aircraft Parts supply online) to coat the pins before installation. 6. A 10mm deep socket fits nicely inside the head of the pins for using a long 3/8"s extension to drive them in with a light hammer. 7. Use a 1/4" socket on a drill to easily spin out the feet. I replaced the thin 3/8"s locking nuts already on my feet with the regular ones sent with the shocks. 8. With the back panel off, the washer cabinet warps to an uneven floor making it very difficult to replace the rear panel. For that reason, I used a level on the floor where the rear feet would end up to determine where the feet should be locked. 9. I assumed 24 threads/inch for the feet/nuts. Therefore, 1 1/2 turns = 1/16". I then locked the rear feet in place before replacing the rear panel. 10. The drive belt is the same as the original made in Brazil. Using a zip tie to hold it in place, like the video showed, was a super idea making installation possible with a good bit of muscle. 11. Shim the cabinet to make it square by lining up the rear panel screw holes. Replace the rear panel. 12. Reattach the water hoses and slide the washer into place. 13. Use a level front to back and side to side to adjust the front feet and lock them into place. 14. Replace the front panel. 15. Plug 'er in and thank Jesus that you're not washing clothes in a stream in Nicaragua like I have personally witnessed. <><

Bought the shock absorber's from you. They came in two or three days. Installation not quite as easy as I thought it would be. Handy instructions indicated a half inch deep-socket would depress plastic lock nub enough to withdraw retaining pin. With socket in place, no good way to push on pin to get it out. Maybe could have dragged washer away from the wall and removed back to enable pulling but laundry room small, preferred not remove back panel and anyhow some kind of electric box on the lower right barred access to the back of the lower right pin. A little awkward but it turned out long nosed vicegrips worked fine to depress the nubs and left the pin enough exposed to get a pusher on it. To get at the upper end of the right shock you have to lower the hose connection to the bottom of the tub. Have a cup of some kind handy to catch the water when you pull it loose or spend some time lying in a puddle. Installing the new shocks was straight forward except they needed hammering to get them through; I tried pulling on a catspaw with claw end behind the pin with no success but found it possible to get a small ball peen in back with enough room to rap pin forward. In order to get the pin out on the lower right where the electric box sits close to the pin holder I found it needful to priy the pin pretty hard; no way to get it back in unmodified (again, not without taking off back panel and removing the electric box and even then maybe flipping machine onto side to get at nuts on the bottom) so sawed off about 3/8" from the end of the pin. That made insertion of the pin in the new shock easiest one of all, the electric box providing a handy fulcrum for a screw driver to force the pin forward. In short, not difficult but it took me too long. Washer was Frig. Crown Series, Mod.FWTB59RGSO. Others that take the same shocks probably handier to do.

Watched two repair YouTube videos. Both helpful. However one shows how easy it is but concentrated on the "left" absorber which is under the detergent dispenser where there is plenty of access from the front access panel. Using the suggested 1/2 inch deep socket is brilliant and worth the $5 tool cost of needed. This helps depress the lock tab on the nylon retaining pins that hold the absorber in place. While using pliers to push/pull the pin out, on my old unit this was tough as any lubricant had dried out long ago. I found it useful to insert a 4 inch long 1/4 inch hex key down the deep socket and tap the pin out. The video also showed the machine raised in a stand. This makes the repair look easy as you do not have to stand on your head. The video then states you to repeat the process on the right side by "simply" freeing the air feed to the pump and pushing it out of the way to access the lower right hand pin. This would be easy if you have three hands. However, there is very little clearance on the backside to remove or reinsert the pin because of the motor control panel just behind the right absorber. The second video focuses on accessing the pins from the back of the machines. This requires moving the machine to access the back, removing the water hoses, removing the back panel and unfastening the motor control to swing it out of the way. Now all four pins are accessable! ARRANGING TO HAVE ACCESS TO BOTH THE FRONT AND BACK OF THE MACHINE IS ALMOST IMPERATIVE!!!

Replaced shock absorbers. The pins that hold the absorbed in place are MUCH more difficult to access, remove and reinstall than shown in instructional videos. I accessed the shocks from the front of the machine. It looked like it would be harder to do it from the back. Had to improvise, using long shank screwdriver, long (approx. 12") piece of wood and a hammer to drive pins OUT from front to back. To reinstall, I reversed the pins and drove them IN from front to back. The plastic tube and rubber collar, disconnected for access purposes during shock installation, were a problem putting back together. To make it easier, I used a stainless steel adjustable hose clamp in place of the original spring steel clamp. Oh, almost forgot, I used petroleum jelly on the pins when reinstalling. Hope this helps others that might face the same problems I encountered.