Ge WB35X37972 Bottom Oven And Deflector Asm OEM Part

Ordered everything from AppliancePartsPros.com and they were helpful, reliable and friendly in our interactions. Can't recommend them more for a vendor. First go get a ton of stainless steel sheet metal screws - about 20 phillips head and 20 nut driver. a drill with a phillips bit and a nutdriver bit and a zip tie and a phillips screw driver and a socket and an extension bit. Second - unplug your stove, turn off the gas valve on back of the stove and pull it away from the wall so you can access the rear easily. Third -Put on a head lamp and some clothes that are going to get oven stuff on them. Removed Racks from lower stove, then removed the bottom of the stove, in my oven there are two nut drive screws in the back holding it on so you have to unscrew those in the back of the oven. Attached to the bottom of the oven is the inplace deflector and Deflector oven kit. If it's anything like mine the main shield melted and dripped onto the glowbar which caused the problem. Unscrew this setup from the bottom of the oven. Throw it away. Assemble the new deflector to the deflector oven kit (no screws supplied). The new deflector oven kit has a cutout above where the ignitor glow bar goes so it doesn't melt and drip on it again. Make sure the cutout is going to be positioned over the glowbar when the bottom is reinstalled. Now go to the back of the stove and remove the steel cover on the bottom left of the stove that is covering some wires that come out of the bottom of the stove. Under the cover is the little plastic electrical connector that has the glow bar wires running to it from the back of the stove. Unplug this connector for the glow bar. Now go back to the front of the stove and remove the metal cover in the back of the stove that covers the hole the glowbars electrical stuff goes through, it has a bunch of nut driver screws. Once that shield is removed take out the old glowbar by unscrewing the glowbars protective metal mount from the stove bottom and pulling the connector through, it's tight through the hole and some insulation may come out so salvage that if you can . Now install the new glowbar by shoving the wire through the hole. Now plug in the new glowbar and zip-tie the wires up nice and replace the protective shield on the back of the stove. Now go in the front of the stove and mount the new glowbar with new stainless screws. Then mount the electric wire cover. then replace the bottom of the stove then the racks, then plug it in, then turn on the gas, then cook.

Having been the third identical incident in five years, I located the GE Service Bulletin ra04-17 indicating a change to the bake deflector that should prevent future mishaps. The removal and replacement are quite easy but note that most of the sheet-metal screws will need to be replaced. All parts were in stock at AppliancePartsPros.com and delivery was fast. FYI, while the access to the igniter and heat shield is from the front, you will need to pull out the range to unplug the igniter from the back.

Pulled oven to get behind and unplug the old Ignitor. Also replaced heat shield. Be sure and look at the underside if you are already replacing the Ignitor bc it probably has a hole like mine. Biggest problem was removing the screws from the heat shield and reusing the deflector bc the screws would easily strip, I guess due to their exposure to high temps. Honestly a fairly simple repair, especially if pulling your oven out is easy. To remove door, just open and flip the little locks at hinge and lift off. Very easy.

This was for a GE Profile Oven that is only 4 years old and this is the second time I had to replace the ignitor glow bar and deflector. I found this deflector part is the replacement for the original deflector which was causing early failure of the ignitor glow bar. There is a GE Service Bulletin RA04-16 that calls out this new deflector. I sure this will be the permanent fix. Repair is simple. Remove oven door then bottom pan. Replace ignitor glow bar. Replace deflector. Note this part includes directions on how to replace the deflector. Note that you will need to pull oven out to remove 4 screws on a cover that needs to be removed to plug in ignitor glow bar.

At first I thought it was just the ignitor, which I ordered, but when I went to replace it, I found that the metal deflector had a hole melted in it which was what melted down onto the ignitor likely causing it to break. There is a GE bulletin for the issue and the new deflector has a large cutout now over the ignitor. One of the ignitor screws stripped and I had to saw it off, this was not easy at all as it was in the far back of the oven. There are a few videos online of taking out the lower oven panel to get access to this which were helpful, the ignitor I bought didn't come with ceramic wire nuts so i had to buy those. These were needed as I did not pull the oven out. I didn't realize the oven door came off so easy, definitely do that, very simple, just flip the little hinges, then the door will easily come off when you are in the closing motion. The screws holding the deflector on and the stainless steel shield stripped out, had to use a flat head to hold them up while I continued to unscrew them to get them out. I went to ACE and bought #8 3/8 flat head screws to replace, the heads were thicker than what I took off but fit just fine. I had to bend a bit of one of the deflector tabs where the holes didn't line up but it went back together easily and I was able to get it back in the oven simply (after taking the door off). Pizza cooking now!!