Ge PM10X310 Cerama Bryte Cooktop Cleaner OEM Part

VERY simple fix- you do not even have to pull the range out.. I ordered a new cooktop from Appliance parts Pros. The customer sales rep Alphonso was great and walked me through the general process. I could find no explicit instructions for the repair but I muddled my way through. The fix is simple on Kitchenaid/Whirpool slide in ranges. 1. Open the oven door and remove the two phillips head screws directly below the control panel that hold the panel down.2. Lift the control panel upward and out. You will need to finesse the gasket between the control panel and the cooktop a bit as the gasket can stick from grease etc. You will also need to prop up the control panel while you work. I partially closed the oven door to form a small quasi- shelf and my wife balanced the control panel on the "shelf" while I worked. 3. Remove two phillips head screws directly below the top that retain the front of the cooktop. There is a metal gasket retainer plate that also come off as the screws are removed.4. Gingerly lift the old cooktop up and out towards the front. The rear of the cooktop is retained by two small prongs that are integral to the cooktop. The process may require a little finesse as the gaskets under the top may stick a bit. 5 Clean all the gaskets with degreaser ( I used a rag and a little mineral spirits. 6. To assemble just reverse the whole process. Make sure that the cooktop is retained by the prongs at the back and all the way back before fully laying it down as reassembling the front screws.

I called you and gave you the model number of the stove. The customer service rep. was able to identify which control board I required and I paid extra for next day delivery. The part arrived on Saturday morning. I took the part out of the box and it was exactly what I expected after watching several YouTube videos on replacing the control board in a Kenmore range. I pulled the stove away from the wall and unplugged it. I turned the range around so I could access the back of the stove. I removed the 6 screws holding the top metal panel in place. I initially had some trouble finding the right wrench to fit the screws because they are not standard Phillips head screws. Once I found the right wrench, it went quickly. Be sure to hold the metal panel as you remove the last screw so it doesn't fall to the floor or on your foot. The next step was taking a picture of the order of the wiring that was connected to the control board. After the pics, I pulled the two different wiring plugs from the board. I recommend doing this first because it allows you to wiggle the wiring plugs loose from the board while it is still stabilized in place. After removing the plugs, I removed the 4 screws holding the control board in place. Next, I took A Small putty knife and ran it along the outer edge of the front face plate on the board because it is the face plate of the board you see when you look at the stove. The control board does not come with this face plate so you have to order it separately or reuse the one like I did. I placed the faceplate backside up so the remaining glue would not stick to my counter. I cleaned the entire area where the control board had been. The old faceplate was placed on the front facing part of the new control board. I put the new control board in place and replaced the 4 screws holding it in place. Reconnected the wiring plugs and replaced the metal back. Once I plugged the stove back in, the stove control panel immediately lighted up. I did turn the stove on to make sure it worked well and it did. I saved almost $300.00 doing this repair myself. I had never done anything like it. Based on my experience and as a woman, I would consider this a fairly easy process. I do recommend watching some videos on YouTube including any you can find put out by the stove manufacturer. There were several from Sears that showed the process. It also helped to get the right part for my stove the first time.

Little procrastination paid off. With only 50% capability I knew it is time to call the appliancepartspros. They shipped me parts within 3 days. It was practical to fix both at the time. All I needed was to disconnect power at range breaker box, grab a screwdriver to lift top open, a 16 inch or so piece of old 2×4 wood to keep the top top of stove lifted, so I could access heating elements from underneath. Then I took my black sharpie And marked location of mounting screws and connectors. Also since I own a smartphone :) I made picture of the underside, so I can reference it later if needed. Then I used my power screwdriver with a bit that fits the screws, thare all same size. With multiple wires, I always disconnect one wire at the time from old device, and install in the location on the new device. This way I don't get my wires confused, and never have to doubt whether I switched wires. As I connected wires to my new burners, I mount screws exactly as they were on my old burners. After I was done, I inspected my work, to make sure there is no bare , unconnected a wires hanging freely. Last thing was to lower the top, turn my circuit breaker on, test burners if they work. Finally, I attached the two mounting screws that hold top. They are at the bottom front of the top plate with burners. They sent me a cleaning liquid for $6 extra, and it helps in getting rid of some stains on the glass. It took me only 40 minutes to do it.

I got online and found AppliancePartsPros.com. I found others had the same problem, and had replaced the switch, with my model number your rep got me the exact switch and a video on how to change it. It took approx 15-20 min . was very happy with the service, will use again in future if needed. Gary

I called and spoke with a rep about the code and she asked several questions, then said it's likely the heat sensor has failed. She shipped me the replacement part. I received it in short order and took the range apart. I tested the sensor and it passed the test, 1050 ohms resistance. I called again and another woman asked if I was testing it at room temp. I said yes, and she asked me to install the replacement anyway as the RFD may pass the test at room temp and fail at high temp. I replaced the unit and "voila," it worked fine. Thanks for the part, fast delivery, and help with understanding how the range parts work. You're the best! Mark