With none of the cooking options working, and the display acting normal; I suspected door interlock issue. Using the contained schematic and wiring diagram; there is a picture of the entire door switch mechanism; with names and location of micro switches. It is best if you have some experience reading schematics and wiring diagrams(both are in the envelope, on top of the oven once the shell is off) BEWARE! TAMPER PROOF SCREWS ON CASING, AND HIGH VOLTAGE CAPACITOR, THAT CAN INJURE OR KILL. If you can get into the unit; you can read the info in the envelope on how to deal with the capacitor at your own risk. From here you can do it two ways. You will likely need an electric meter with OHM or continuity setting. You can leave the whole door switch mechanism in place; it is a long piece of plastic with these micro switches fastened on to it, then securing to the back side where the door latches in. If you get this far; there are a couple ways to troubleshoot it. If your turntable is spinning when the door is open; and nothing cooks.....then you can target the micro switch on the very bottom of mechanism; back side of door latch mechanism, out of sight. It has a funky plug with 3 wires; that can only plug one way. It is in the back. It is best if you determine the switch is bad, before taking out the entire mechanism with the switches on it. Another danger; BEWARE EVERYTHING IS VERY SHARP. If you don't get a couple small cuts; your a better man than I am. Watch those sharp edges, and don't slip a screwdriver or pliers. If you can read wiring diagrams and schematics; simply pull the funky plug with the three wires, for the bottom rear micro switch. I believe the bottom contact is common. Using the wiring diagram and schematic; ascertain the normally open and closed contacts; then test them with your meter. Use the door to test switch action. The diagram nomenclature tells you the proper state of the door, relative to the switch operation you extract from the diagram. You should be able to figure this out if you can read schematics.
If you can't read schematics or diagrams; but broke in and braved the capacitor anyway. Make sure you disconnect the capacitor leads with some good insulated pliers; and don't touch the contacts at all......and or, discharge it. If you don't know what a capacitor is; you are probably out of your pay grade here. My next instruction are for those who know enough to get in, and have some idea working around the components, but may not be able to read diagrams well. You can unscrew the switch assembly, with only two screws. You will have to do this in any case, after diagnosis; or be really crafty, to replace the back micro switch in place(good luck on that one). This is the hard part. You may even get lucky and be able to see the micro switch is bad, or sniff it out a bit. Either way; at some point you will have to take the whole door mechanism out likely, so you can get to the micro switch replaced here. Good luck, but it is possible. It is a bit risky, but I assure it can be done. There is a bright white plastic mechanism; that sits behind the button that opens the door from outside. This mechanism is in the way of the bottom screw holding the door latch mechanism with the taget switches on it. Top screw is easy peasy. The bottom one is not. You can either figure a way to take a bunch of stuff apart(half the microwave probably) or you can put a flat blade screwdriver into far side of the bright white mechanism, and very carefully "pry" the fare side of the mechanism off its mount. Be very careful; break this, and you will be buying another part. Once the far side of this is off the mount; you can life this mechanism behind the door latch up just enough; to get a screw driver in at a good angle; and sneak that damn obstructed screw out. Once that bastard screw is out, and prey you don't hear a snap doing it; you can take the whole switch out, pretty easy. You should mark all your wires to make it easy, only about 6-8 connections. Now you can look at the switches. Pop them off, one at a time(they snap off the assembly easy) and you can see the diagram on each switch showing the switch contacts. The three contact switch here, has a common, and a normally open, and a normally closed contact. It may be burned up. For me, I probably would not even have had to take it out to know it was the problem; because the little button on top was sprung and holding in. It was burned inside, and not releasing. You may be able to see this right off the bat going it. Just the fact that the turntable is turning, with the door open(and nothing cooks) is a sign it is this back door interlock switch, at very bottom of door assembly ordered here. The big thing to remember is the capacitor, and cutting yourself. If you find the hidden switch, and can get your finger down on the little button on top picture here; and it does not clickity click when you push the nub up and down; you can take a pretty good shot at that being your problem; but your still going to need to take the switch out; and mess with that obstructed screw, behind the door button hardware. It is barely possible, but I did it. Gently pry that mechanism off the mount; and find a good newer screwdriver. Don't forget to put everything back together. Note; good idea to check all your connections while the capacitor is disconnected only. Often times the spade connectors on the various components(especially the heating elements) are loose. Gently spring them with pliers, and put them back on. My last one burned off one side of the heating element, I had to replace the terminal connector. Hope this helps. Because this unit has a high voltage capacitor; it has tamper proof screws. That means; it is dangerous to work on; and not recommended for novice. Make sure you know what a capacitor does; and understand your risk. Hope this helps. Mine is working better than ever.