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Customer Questions and Answers for Electronic Oven Control Board (Clock/Timer) by Frigidaire

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Frigidaire
Part Number: OEM11512044
Manufacturer Part Number: 316429301

This electronic oven control board (clock/timer) is the brain of your range/oven, regulating temperature, powering the bake/broil circuits, and managing the display and keypad. Replacing it restores proper heating and responsive controls.

  • Governs bake and broil circuits and maintains set temperature using oven sensor feedback
  • Displays time/temperature and responds to keypad inputs
  • Common failure signs: oven won't heat or start, erratic/inaccurate temps, dead or unresponsive display, repeated beeps or error codes
What's included: One electronic control board Install notes:
  • Disconnect power at the breaker or unplug the appliance before servicing
  • Handle the board by the edges and use anti-static precautions
  • Photograph/label connectors and transfer wires one at a time to the new board
  • Transfer the existing keypad overlay and any brackets as needed, reinstall panel, restore power, and test bake/broil

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$149.95
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Questions & Answers

For Frigidaire Electronic Oven Control Board (Clock/Timer) (Part Number: OEM11512044)

1 Answer

Hello Gayla, You should first unplug the unit and check the prongs on the plug for burned spots. If you find any, the outlet is loose and will have to be replaced. You will also need to sand off the burned spots. If there are no burned spots you should check the terminal block where the cord connects to the range. If any are loose, try to tighten them. If they will tighten you are good to go. If not, the terminal block 5303935238 will need to be replaced and in some cases, if the wires for the cord are burned, it will also need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Hello Rae, When the F 10 code is displayed, check RTD Sensor Probe 316490000 & replace it if necessary. If the oven is overheating, disconnect power. If the oven continues to overheat when the power is reapplied, replace EOC 316418208. Severe overheating may require the entire oven to be replaced should damage be extensive. I'm sorry but this part 316418208 has been discontinued by the manufacturer and no satisfactory substitutions have been provided. Thank you for your patience and understanding in this matter.

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1 Answer

J, The L1 to L2 on the infinite switch would not have continuity in the on position or in the off position. There should be continuity in the on the position from L1 to P1, L1 to H1, and L2 to H2. If there is continuity then the switch should be good. If testing voltage then there will be 240 Vac from L1 to L2 and from H1 to H2 in the on position. If there is not power at L1 to L2 then check wiring issue and if there is power from L1 to L2 and no power H1 to H2 then the switch would be faulty. There is no simmer control board for the infinite switch.

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1 Answer

Hello Dennis, I'm sorry but since replacement parts for appliances are listed by model number, we would have to have the model number from your units' I.D. tag to recommend parts that can be guaranteed to fit and work properly on your unit. If you could please post a new question including this information, we will be happy to see if the part needed is available. Thank you for your patience and understanding in this matter.

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1 Answer

Larry, You might want to check your incoming power or breaker panel.I couldn't find an exact tech sheet for your model but a similar one just has l1 and l2 then h1 and h2 goes to the element.Check voltage at your switch for 120 at l1 and 120 at l2 then when element is one voltage should come out of h1 and h2.

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1 Answer

Robert, I cannot recommend that you by-pass the simmer control, the way it is wired it would not work.

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Jim for Model Number 79096612409

Add me to the growing list of folks who have had the fun "bright-flash, blue smoke, and blown breaker" experience when attempting to use the "Simmer Select" button on my lady-friends' Kenmore range. Since I didn't know "what" the problem was, I only found this out by pulling the range away from the wall to unplug it for safety, and seeing the charred flash deposit on the wall behind, I opened up the inspection panel to have a look-see. I lined up the char-flash on the wall with components inside the unit and zeroed in on the "Simmer Select" board. There I found a "little black cube" with a small hole on a corner of it and charring around its base where it blew out, thus the big flash, blue smoke, and tripped breaker...and now a non-working range with dinner only partly done, so it became pizza delivery night. I have ordered a replacement Simmer Select board (PN: AP3837345) but my question is: Why does this happen so often to more than just a few folks? Based on the limited Q/A's of what I've seen on here, it all points to using that "Simmer Select" button. Is it a product defect that should be addressed as potentially hazardous? Thanks for any input!

1 Answer

Jim, It sounds likely that there is just a weak relay on the control board and would need to just replace the board.

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1 Answer

John, This issue sounds like it would be an issue with a possible terminal block or wiring issue. You will want to check these 2 things to make sure that there are no bad wires and make sure that the terminal block is good.

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1 Answer

Bill, It depends on what you are trying to test, if you are testing to see if there is power to the bake element you would go to the bake relay and test disconnect the wire to the bake element and test for 120 vac where you disconnected the wire from with the unit set to bake. If there is 120 vac on that terminal then the bake element or the L2 leg of power is bad.

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1 Answer

Hello Jeff. You will need to order and replace the switch of the burner the light is staying on for.

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