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Customer Questions and Answers for Switch by Frigidaire

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By: Frigidaire
Part Number: OEM13107000
Manufacturer Part Number: 903136-9010

The Switch is an OEM part for Frigidaire ovens. This component is responsible for controlling the flow of electricity to various functions of the oven, such as the bake and broil elements, ensuring the oven operates correctly according to the selected settings.

Causes of a bad switch can include wear and tear from frequent use, electrical surges, or physical damage from impact or exposure to moisture.

Symptoms of a bad switch include:

  • The oven not turning on or responding to control inputs
  • Inconsistent heating or temperature control issues
  • Certain oven functions not working, such as the bake or broil elements
  • The switch feeling loose or sticking when turned

This OEM replacement is also compatible with Electrolux, Gibson, Tappan, Kelvinator, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Frigidaire Switch (Part Number: OEM13107000)

1 Answer

Buddy, If you remove the knobs from the console there will be a nut that secures the membrane switch to the control. Remove the nuts from each one. This should allow you to access the screws holding the control bracket in place and then should be able to remove the switches.

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Steven J for Model Number FED365EBC

I bought the replacement switch 903136-9010 for my flattop range FED365EBC. The old switch worked okay, but would occasionally not turn off when pointed to off. I switched the leads one at a time to matching terminals and it all seemed to work. Then we noticed that it ran hotter on all of the lower settings. I tested it with an IR thermometer and found it was similar to the other burners at the same setting. Now I am missing the old switch that ran less hot because it was useful to keep things warm after they were cooked or to very gently warm something up. Is there a replacement switch available that runs at a lower temperature at the lower settings?

1 Answer

Steven, The switch that you received for your unit is the correct switch and the original may have been faulty in the sense of not keeping the burner at the correct setting when on low. Unfortunately there is not another switch for this unit.

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1 Answer

Ron, The orange wires would go to H1 and H2, the blue/red would go to L2 and the black/gray to L1.

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1 Answer

Paul, If the bushing that was sent with the kit was needed then you would have needed to use the longer screws.

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1 Answer

Hello Will, The following information is all I could pull up on the new infinite switches. If more wires are connected to the switch they will have to connect to the same electrical connection such as the L1 and L2 connections that are "piggy-backed" to the same connection electrically. H1 to 1-H1 P to 2P2 L1 to 3-L1 H2 to 4-H2 L2 to 5-L2 The switch 903136-9010 should have five (5) terminals on the back of the switch. L1 terminal, should have the black wire from the main harness attached to it. L2 terminal should have the red wire from the main harness attached to it. H1 Terminal should have a white #2 wire attached to it, that goes to one side of the element. The H2 terminal has the remaining white wire attached to it, and attaches to the sensor terminal of the element. And The P terminal will have the pink wire attached to it, that's the wire supplying power to the indicator light.

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1 Answer

Hi Julian. If the clock part # 318296802 is out then you may have 2-separate issues. If the switch part # 903136-9010 connections are physically burnt or you see if the side contacts are burnt, then chances are that you have to replace the switch. Make sure you have 240 vac to the unit first. Volt Meter part # MA-DM1. Thank You.

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1 Answer

Doug, The "basic" information you requested is on it's way. Just remember to remove power to the range, before you start and label all the wires before you remove them. Thanks

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1 Answer

George, We have reviewed your parts order and you do hve the correct infinite switch based on your post. The switch 903136-9010 is designed to function with a six(6) inch, single ribbon element, rated at 1200 watts. It should have five(5) terminals on the back of the switch. L1 terminal, should have the black wire from the main harness attached to it. L2 terminal should have the red wire from the main harness attached to it. H1 Terminal should have a white#2 wire attached to it, that goes to one side of the element. The H2 terminal has the remaining white wire attached to it, and attaches to the sensor terminal of the element. And The P terminal will have the pink wire attached to it, thats the wire supplying power to the indicator light. Thanks and Good Luck

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