Taylor May 23, 2024 for Model Number 41781122310 when starting a cycle, the dryer will not complete a full cycle. only runs for about 15 min then stops. also noticed that the dryer is not heating up in the short amount of time it is running.
1 Answer Taylor, if there is 240VAC reaching the dryer, the most likely cause of failure would be the control 137070890NH based on the information provided. Read More...
Karen June 29, 2023 for Model Number 41781142000 The dryer will only heat when turned on medium or low. When switched on high heat, the drum turns but no heat. Do I need to replace the "high limit thermostat? Thanks, Karen
1 Answer Hello Karen, since the dryer does heat on low/medium the heater element is working, the problem then is a faulty temp selector switch 134398600,however, the part has been discontinued by the manufacturer with no substitute part listed. Read More...
Tim W. February 16, 2023 for Model Number FRIGIDAIRE LEQ7000ES1 The dryer turns on but shuts off right away. I have replaced the thermal limiter but still have the same problem. I see it could also be the thermostat. What do you think? The control board was replaced on 12/27/22 and seems to be ok.
1 Answer Tim, if the entire dryer is shutting down, the failure would likely be wire or control related and identifying if there are any error codes stored would be recommended. This can be done by entering the field service mode. If there is not an error code identified this way, the failure would likely be in the user interface control 134557200NH if there is not a pinched or partially broken wire. Read More...
Max October 29, 2022 for Model Number Kenmore Dryer 417.69042991 My dryer is about 22 years old. Six years ago, I had to replace the rear bearing; the exhaust duct came loose from the back of the dryer and we did not notice for several months, and so lint was getting sucked into the dryer. This lint clogged up and destroyed the rear bearing, so new bearing fixed the problem. I noticed at the time that the felt seal was worn and would need to be replaced next. Well the dryer started making a squeaking noise again like the drum was rubbing at the front, so I replaced the front felt seal, both top and bottom pieces. Now the dryer starts to make a low vibration noise when it gets hot, and the temperature control doesn't work - it seems to be stuck on full hot all the time. How do I diagnose the problem? Is there a test to see if the thermostat is bad? I am also suspicious of the control board because it seems to just default to full heat.
1 Answer Max, Check the venting to make sure that it is not clogged from the dryer to the outside of your home and if it is not then you will want to check the temperature switch to make sure that the switches contacts are not stuck to the high position. If it is not then the issue will be with the thermostats. This unit has a sensor control board but that is for the sensor dry and will not cause this issue. Read More...
Rod September 08, 2021 for Model Number 41799812990 I have a Kenmore laundry center. The dryer will shut off after 20 minutes. i have checked the vent which was not clogged and ran dryer with it removed for the same result. i have changed the thermal limiter (5303209192), the thermostat safety, (3204267), and now the motor, (5303937189), and now dryer shuts off in 10 minutes. while i had the blower casing opened to change motor, i saw some crud around the thermostat control (3204307), thermostat heater (131658102), which i have not replaced, and cleaned it. would you advise changing these? i have read some of the questions and you recommend checking for a grounded element. would that be another step. I'm not sure what else to do with this condition. Hope you can help.
1 Answer Rod, If the unit is shutting completely down then the thermostats would not have anything to do with the issue. It would be more likely if you have to let it cool down that something is causing a drag on the motor and causing it to shut down. It would be recommended to check the front bearing slide on the drum, check the felt seals and the rear bearing to make sure that they are all good. Also, check the idler pulley to make sure that it is not binding up. Read More...
Mh May 25, 2020 for Model Number GLER331AS2 Question about a Frigidaire GLER331AS2 dryer. The coils will cycle on for about 15 minutes and then cycle off once you hear a click. I have checked the thermostat, limit switch, and coils for continuity and all show fine. I did run the dryer with the drum removed to observe. I noticed on the coils that between the 11 and 1 o'clock positions, the coils don't glow as brightly as the rest of the unit- bright orange on all other coil sections. However, it still showed continuity when testing both ends that plug into the electrical connectors with a self-powered continuity tester. Testing various sections of the coil showed sporadic results but noticed the tester not beeping as much in the 11 and 1 o'clock area. Entire ducting has been cleaned and blower housing itself . Is it possible for a coil section could be bad but still have continuity? Do the coils stay on during the entire drying time, or do they get cycled on/off by the cycling thermostat? Thank you.
1 Answer MH, the heating element would need to be tested for resistance as an element can show continuity but not have the proper resistance necessary to heat. The resistance of the heating element is 12.8O. It would also be recommended that the element is tested for continuity to ground to ensure that the element coil has not grounded out. The heating element would cycle on and off based on the temperature of the cycling thermostat 131298300. However, if the element overheats, the hi-limit thermostat 3204267 will kick off the element as a safety and will not allow the element to cycle back on until it cools down properly. Read More...
Mh April 26, 2020 for Model Number GLER331AS2 So, I originally posted an issue about a Frigidaire GLER331AS2 dryer around mid-April. Issue is coils cycle on and then cycle off after about 15 minutes and repeats. Near the top right of the control panel, it also gets hot enough to burn you. Today, I took the dryer apart and there was come caked on & loose lint in the blower wheel and the lint duct work. So I scrapped it off and used a Shop Vac and vacuumed the entire inside- motor & all. I even cleaned again the rigid 4" ductwork again from the dryer to the outside and cleaned the louvres. To ensure all was working, I used a wire tie to tie both ends of the interlock/door wires together and did not install the drum. You can see the coil come on (verified with meter 240V at the connections), then you hear a click about 10-15 minutes later, and the coils turn off. Once coils cool down for about 5-10 minutes, they come back on, run for a bit and turn on, and repeats. So the same issue persists I disconnected the power cord, and the wires to the thermal limiter, thermostat, and coils. Using a meter that also measures continuity and gives an audible beep as well, I measured the continuity across the thermal limiter, thermostat, and coils. All three came back fine along with the audible beep. I even used a second meter that measures continuity to verify, and same results- the three came back showing continuity. When the coils kick off, 240V shows at the thermostat connections but when coils are on, nothing registers. Even though thermostat shows continuity, thinking that might still be the problem since it may be shutting off power to the coils prematurely or not at the temperature it should be. Since the this is around a $60 part, that's why I'm posting on this forum as a logic validation. Should I also replace the thermal limiter since it's only around $10 or so more? The coils don't seem to be an issue since as I mentioned, they have continuity. Plus when dryer was running, all of the coils were glowing red so no break in the coil wire. Is there something else that could be causing this issue and/or something else I should be checking/testing? Appreciate your initial response, and hopefully with the diagnosis/testing done today and additional info I am providing, it will help determine a cause for this issue. Thank you.
1 Answer MH, It is not impossible for the thermostat to cause the element to cycle off prematurely but running for 15 minutes before shutting off does not show that the thermostats would be faulty. If the unit is not heating then this would be an issue with the venting most likely being clogged. You cleaning the vent and the blower wheel then this may correct any heating issue that you may have. Read More...
Toby Jackson April 20, 2020 for Model Number GLER341AS0 I replaced my rear drum bearing on sat, now the dryer won't get hot the heating element is not coming on mind you I did not disconnect wires to it, I did clean out the element as there was dusk around the rim, I have had this dryer for 15 years no problems then it started making this loud rumbling noise which led to replacing the rear drum bearing mind you this did not solve the problem and now it won't get hot, should I replace the thermostat or the entire element or could it be the blower that needs to be replace to solve the rumbling noise and the heating issue? Thanks Toby
1 Answer Toby, It would be recommended to double-check the wiring to make sure that there are no loose or damaged wires. Also, check the thermostats and the heater for continuity to make sure that they are good. Read More...
Mh April 13, 2020 for Model Number GLER331AS2 Frigidaire Gallery dryer- model GLER331AS2 -runs and has sporadic heat. You can see the element heat up from the rear but after around 15 minutes, the element turns off. The top right of the dryer near the control panel gets very hot. Once the element cools down (top right area as well), the element turns back on and starts heating again. It will then shuts off again with the aforementioned area getting hot and repeats the process. Clothes take a while to dry since the element is not constantly on during the drying process, but turns on and off. We clean lint filter after every use, and use a shop vac to clean out lint in dryer. Ducting is ridged metal HVAC 4" pipe and is clean. Louvres on outside are regularly cleaned. Not sure if it's a thermostat or cycling switch? I just don't want to start replacing parts. Thanks.
1 Answer MH, Based on the information provided it sounds like you could have an air restriction. Lack of airflow will cause an overheating type of issue. I would first check the vent system for blockages and or collapsed vent. Then I would check the blower wheel and internal portions of the vent system to ensure all is clear. You can also disconnect the dryer from the vent, pull it away from the wall and run a test cycle to see if the machine itself is operating as normal. Read More...
Timothy Ferguson April 09, 2020 for Model Number EIMED60LT2 Hello, I have an Electrolux EIMED60LT2 that runs but I can only use the delicate settings. Any other heated setting on the unit seems to make the unit very loud like a jet engine. We have been using the delicate setting for over a year and just running it multiple times. I have been reading about the thermostat or fuse being blown or not functioning properly. Do you have any advise? I had a repair shop under warranty replace the motor, heating unit but not luck. Drier is now out of warranty. Please help. Tim
1 Answer Tim F, Based on the information provided and the parts already replaced I am thinking you have a bad roller assembly (getting noisy as it heats up) and its likely a rear one. The roller part number is 5304523155 Your machine has five of these two in the front and three in the rear. Read More...