Margie February 10, 2014 for Model Number hss25gfpjww My hotpoint refrig will not freeze. The fan and thermostat seem to be working.
1 Answer Hello Margie. If the unit is cooling, but not freezing, you will need to look for a full frost pattern across the evaporator coils in the unit. If it is not fully frosted over, you have a sealed system issue and will need an HVAC tech to repair the unit. Read More...
Doug January 09, 2014 for Model Number sts18gbsarww Working ok then I moved it and it quit working. It happened once before and my brother reset some switch. Neither one of us can remember where the switch is. Can you help?
1 Answer Hello Doug. Sorry, there is no reset switch on the unit. It may be in the defrost cycle. Let it stay plugged in for about 30 minutes and see if it starts running. Read More...
Nicole May 07, 2013 Hello, My freezer quit freezing yesterday. It is staying at 23* and the fridge is at 42*, i turned the freezer down to a negative and still nothing, there is some cool air coming out but not enough to freeze it. I took the back off and the fan is still turning and the compressor is slightly hot. Could this be the start relay? if so what is the name of the part that i need to purchase? If its not the start relay what else could it be?? Thank you
1 Answer Hello Nicole. If the fan is running, and the coils are clean, you have a sealed system failure and will need an HVAC tech to come out on the unit. Read More...
Lynn January 16, 2013 for Model Number PSC23NSTASS My refrigerator quit cooling. I have been noticing that the freezer temperature would sometimes be warmer (3 or 4 degrees) than the O degrees it is set. The next day it would be back to 0. This has been going on for a month or so. The other day both the freezer (13 degrees) and refrigerator (40 degrees) started getting much warmer. All the lights still work. I removed the panel on the back of the fridge and the condenser fan was running and the compressor seemed to be running but the output line was not cold. I tapped around on the relay and the compressor sounded like it kicked in and the output line started getting cold. This lasted for less than a minute and then the output line got warm and I could not get it to do this again. I am wondering if this is the overload/start relay not working or is there something else that could be causing this?
1 Answer Hello Lynn, The discharge tube on the compressor should not be cold it should be hot. The suction line would be room temp to cool at best. Make sure that the condenser coils are clean. check to make sure that the evaporator fan is running. Double check the evaporator to make sure that it is not getting impacted by frost. If the evap is getting impacted by frost or ice this would be a defrost type of problem. Read More...
Ire32 November 04, 2012 for Model Number GSS25TGPCWW I purchased this part when we smelled electrical burn. Replaced the original with this part and the fan did not come on. The Fridge has power and the lights and temp readings were on, however the coil fan did not come on. I then put the old part back on and the fan clicked on within a few seconds. Does this mean that the new part is bad, or could I have installed it wrong? I installed with the black wire to the blue dotted slot and the orange to the slot with the Number "2" next to it. I also plugged the old capacitor into the two slots remaining. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
1 Answer Hello Ire, Based on the information provided the black does go next to where blue dot on relay is and the orange would go to the terminal where the #2 is. You may try to reinstall the part and see if it works. Check all connections to make sure you do not have a loose wire as well. When you plug in the new part and if the compressor turns on then the part would not be bad. Read More...
Jason G November 02, 2012 for Model Number gts18wxcsarww I hooked my fridge to a generator and it worked for a couple of days then it quit. I spoke to a person named april and said that a relay should fix me up. Then I asked if there was anyway to test the compressor motor but my multi meter is reading OL. Before I hook it up to anything what do I do and how?
1 Answer Hello Jason, If you set your multi-meter to ohms and you are getting OL across the compressor terminals the you have an open line and need a new compressor. You should have an ohm reading. Another thing that you would want to check is the wires coming to the start relay to ensure you are getting power to the compressor. If nothing at all is running then you may have a defrost timer issue WR9X483. You can turn the timer which is located in the refrigerator compartment behind controls. Read More...
Owen July 07, 2012 for Model Number AP3884299 I just ordered the part above and when I am installing it, I am having trouble deciding which wire, black or orange, go into which port. I see that one port has a blue paint marking and the other port has a number 2 next to it. where do I plug each cord?
1 Answer Hello Owen, Without the model number it's kind of hard to say for sure, but looking at some other models that use this part, I would say that the black wire plugs into the hole by the blue dot. The orange goes to the hole marked 2. I checked 5 different models and they all wire this way. Read More...
Joe April 16, 2012 for Model Number GSS23QSTASS There's power to the frig, but not running. No inside lights, nothing, is there a fuse in line?
1 Answer Hello Joe. See if there is power coming to the main control board WR55X10942C. If so, then you will need to replace the control board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Dan E. March 22, 2012 for Model Number PSS26SGRC This part started to melt so I did as you advised another Dan to pull this part and check the triangle pins on compressor. My Ohm readings are 10.3 for bottom two pins. When I check them individually with the top I get 4.1 and 6.3. Does that mean the compressor is bad?
1 Answer HI Dan. The pin readings on the compressor part # WR87X20798, are correct. You need to test them individually from each bottom pin lt and rt. to the top center pin as described. These readings added together will get the total reading between the 2- on the bottom. So, by your measurements they are 10.4 ohms. If the bottom 2 read within 10% of this then the compressor is fine as long as any terminal is not shorted to comp. ground. If the windings are shorted to the casing then you need another one. Rattle the compressor start/run relay part # WR09X10107. If it rattles then the ptc disk internally has separated and needs to be replaced. Coled the relay opposing 2-terminals should read close to 5-6 ohms. + or - 10 %. Thank You. Read More...
Tim April 05, 2011 for Model Number GSL25JFRFBS Can you test this with an ohm meter to validate it is still good. If the Overload/PTC goes out, will it cause the mother board to go out as well?
1 Answer Hello Tim. You will need to test and see if your getting the proper voltage to the compressor. If the voltage is low, you will need to change the control board WR55X10942C. Hope this helps. Read More...