Jim B October 07, 2013 for Model Number FPS22MBWAWW GE side by side Heard clicking noise from back of unit. Checked and saw fan by condenser coil not turning. Replaced motherboard and fan now works. BUT there is still a clicking sound. Like the start of a cycle then after a short time another click. Is it the new board or is there other problems ?
1 Answer Hello Jim. Either the starter for the compressor is bad or the compressor is bad on the unit. Here is a link to our Repair Forum, this is a free service to our customers. Use this link to access the repair for your question. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/193358-freezer-fridge-not-cooling.html Read More...
Chris October 07, 2013 for Model Number GSL25JFXB LB We have been having issues with frost in the freezer, varying conditions of frozen food (i.e. ice cream sometimes hard as a rock/sometimes extremely soft), and ice melting and refreezing in solid block (particularly towards the rear). I have been doing a bit of research and the closest solution I have found is replacing the control board (WR55X10942). I have measured voltages on J2 from pin3 to pin4 (8.5V) and pin8(13.3V). From my reading, the voltage to pin4 is considered low and should be around 13V... but then I read somewhere else that it's ok as long as it is between (8 to 12) volts. Any help would be appreciated.
1 Answer Chris, The J2 connector from pin 3 to 4 is for the evaporator fan motor and if the evaporator fan is not working then it would cause the unit to not cool. With the issue that you are having the fan would not be suspect. You would want to check the thermistors to ensure that they are good. The resistance of the thermistors should be 42.2K ohms at 0 degrees, 14.4K ohms at 37 degrees and 5k ohms at 77 degrees. If out of range then the thermistor would need to be replaced. If they check ok then the control board would most likely be the cause. Read More...
Joe October 07, 2013 for Model Number GE GSL22JFZB fridge The icemaker isn't working, water is coming out of the front door ok. I have replaced the water valve. What Should I do next? Thanks, Joe
1 Answer Hello Joe. Make sure the fill tube is not frozen and if not, replace the icemaker in the unit. Read More...
Kman October 05, 2013 for Model Number GSS25WSTSS My GE side by side GSS25WSTA runs constantly. The temperatures on both the freezer and refrigerator sides are cold enough (in fact, they keep going down from the set points of 0 and 37F, respectively). I checked and I have continuity. It's seems as though the thermistors are sending the message that the compartments have reached the proper temperature, but the control board doesn't take any action (the shut off the unit). Time for (another) new control board?
1 Answer Kman, Based on the information it does sound like the control board could be at fault. You stated that you had continuity on the thermistors but you will want to check the resistance of the thermistors. The resistance values should be 42.2K ohms at 0 degrees, 14.4K ohms at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at room temp of 77 degrees. This is how you would determine a bad thermistor and will want to check these before replacing the main board. Read More...
Mark T. October 05, 2013 for Model Number GSH25JFRFBB Is the Main Control Board OEM (P/N: AP4436216) advertised for sale on your site a replacement for my Refrigerator (Model: GSH25JFRFBB S/N: GH223010)? The control board model I have now is WKKT 0158-00-04, P/N: 200D4854G013. I can not find
1 Answer Hello Mark, The main board recommended for your unit by the manufacturer is WR55X10942C. There is some of these that are a bit different but they will wire in with no harness modifications even when they don't look exactly the same as the old one, (the old ones are no longer available). Read More...
Mark October 03, 2013 for Model Number GE GDS20KCSWW I have a ge gds20kcsww bottom freezer refridge and condenser motor is not running. I was wondering when should it be running? All the time or when it gets to hot? I checked the voltage to the motor and i am not getting the right voltage to the motor. If not getting the right voltage, would that mean it would be the board? Thanks THANKS
1 Answer Mark, The Condenser fan motor should be running any time that the compressor is running. If there is not proper power coming to the condenser fan motor then the control board would be the issue. Read More...
Bob September 29, 2013 for Model Number LG. Model LFC23760 I have an LG side by side fridge model LFC23760 it quit is only 3years old I checked the main control bd. and the fuse at the bottom is burnt, the fuse is wire attached. Do I need to replace entire bd, and if so how difficult is it to do. We're not near a city, so try to do most things myself. Warranty is expired. Thanks Bob.
1 Answer Bob, With the fuse being blown you will need to replace the main control board. There are clips that hold the board in place that you would just disconnect the wiring and on the left side push in on the clips to release the board. Read More...
Lee September 24, 2013 for Model Number pfs22sisbss My GE pfs22sisbss is constantly running ( shuts off very rarely ). The fridge has a digital display that only lights up intermittently. I read that the display relays info back to the mother board telling it when to turn the fridges cooling on and off. So, i purchased a new display, plugged it in and it lit up as expected. 20 minutes later, i open the doors and the display is blank ( just like the one i replaced ). So, is the issue the motherboard? I dont have the constant clicking problem that others seem to have with this model. Those with the clicking problem seem to have remidied it by replacing the motherboard. Any ideas here?
1 Answer Lee, Each unit may have somewhat different symptoms of a control board failure. The issue that you are having sounds like it would most likely be a faulty main control board. Read More...
Cesar A. September 24, 2013 for Model Number gss22sgmdbs Food in freezer is not frozen and cool side is not cold enough. Temperature controls are set at 9 both.
1 Answer Cesar, You will want to check to see if there is frost on the back wall of the freezer compartment as it sounds like you may have a defrost issue. You can check the defrost limiter to see if it has continuity. If it does not have continuity then you would not need to change it out. You will also want to check the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance values should be as follows, 42.5K at 0 degrees, 14.4k at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If not within range then it would need to be replaced. If it checks good then also check the defrost heater for continuity. If no continuity then replace and if good with continuity and all other components check ok then you would need a new main control board. You will also want to check to make sure that the compressor is also running and that the condenser fan motor is running. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Brandy September 23, 2013 I have a GE sxs model number: gss25qgsc bb. Several weeks ago the fridge side stopped cooling. I then discovered frost on the back panel of the freezer and determined that the coils were completely frozen. After some internet research I discovered that the defrost heaters can be a common problem so I ordered a new one and defrosted the coils with a hair dryer for the meantime. Once the new heater came in I removed the old heater and using a multi-meter tested it for continuity. The old heater tested fine but I went ahead and replaced it to be sure. I also removed the thermostat and tested it for continuity as well to ensure that it was good and it was. However, all of this has not fixed my problem. The fridge will cool for a couple of weeks until the coils freeze over again at which point I have to defrost with a hair dryer to keep things working. Your technician explained that if the heater and thermostat were both working then it would either be the thermistor or the main control board. I have not had been able to replace or check either of those as I was hoping to hire a technician to come out and check the entire unit. However, over the last couple of days the evaporator fan has started turning off and on intermittently every 3-5 seconds. Almost, as if it's not certain whether it should run or not. I've learned if I open the freezer door and leave it open for about 5 minutes the starting and stopping will cease and the fan will turn on and run as normal. I am thinking this may be a sign that the main control board is failing and is likely the culprit for both of the issues i.e. the fans intermittent cycling and the coils freezing over. If not, I assume the only thing left to check would be the thermistor for the coil issue and the fan motor for the fan issue. Is it likely, with the issues I'm describing, that the main control board is the problem for both issues or can you offer any other suggestions?
1 Answer Hello Brandy. You will need to replace the main board based on the information you provided. Read More...