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Customer Questions and Answers for Board Assy, Main Control by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM16871838
Manufacturer Part Number: WR55X11130

The Main Control Board Assembly is an OEM part for GE refrigerators. This part manages and regulates various functions of the refrigerator, including temperature control, defrost cycles, and the operation of the compressor and fans.

Causes of a bad main control board can include electrical surges, overheating, or component failures due to age or manufacturing defects. 

Symptoms of a bad main control board include:

  • Refrigerator not cooling properly
  • Erratic temperature fluctuations
  • Unresponsive control panel
  • Frequent cycling on and off
  • Unusual noises from the refrigerator

This OEM GE part is also compatible with Hotpoint, RCA, and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Board Assy, Main Control (Part Number: OEM16871838)

Alan for Model Number ZISS360DMA

I have a GE Refrigerator model ZISS360DMA. It has been acting strangely lately. Temperature is lower than it should be (set to temperature 40 degrees and it will cool it to 30 degrees according to the temperature readout - freezer also colder than it should be). Recently multiple lights stopped working at once. Manual says they are 12 volt halogen bulbs so I removed them to replace but they actually work fine when connected to 12v source. I checked voltage in socket and found it to be 6 vAC instead of 12. I suspect I need a new control board WR55X11130. Anything I can do to confirm this before spending $200 on a new board?

1 Answer

Alan, The issue with the lights would most likely be caused by a faulty transformer which would be part number WR62X10029. For the temperature issue it would be recommended to check the sensors of the unit and if they check ok then the issue will be a faulty control board.

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Anna for Model Number ZIC360NMLH

The original control board on our GE Monogram refrigerator was replaced with model number WR55X11130. The new board is different than the original. The refrigerator worked fine for 1 week, but now the evaporator coil is freezing up, causing the freezer to get too cold and the refrigerator too warm. Could the control board be at fault since it's not exactly like the original one? It seems too coincidental that we have a new problem one week after installing a new control board.

1 Answer

Anna, This control board WR55X11130 is a direct replacement part for the original. Although it is very possible that you may have received a faulty control board.

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1 Answer

Johnny, If the dispenser control is not working then you will want to test at the main control board J4 connector from the brown to orange for 12vdc. If there is 12 vdc then check at the dispenser control board same wire colors to make sure that it is receiving 12vdc. If it is then the issue will be a dispenser control issue. For the freezer interior lights not working then this will most likely be a issue of a faulty transformer. Unfortunately this transformer WR62X10030 has been discontinued by the manufacturer with no suitable replacement.

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Niels for Model Number ziss480dmas

The refrigerator and freezer take a long time to recover and seem to be running all the time in the summer. He tested the fan in freezer behind the icemaker and found it not working. He then jumperwired the control board and the fan started working. He said he could not tell whether the control board of the sensors are defective but to start with the control board (WR55x11130). Since it costs over $180, is the sensor a more likely problem? I see from your other comments that the control board is an issue with the Monograms. Please advice & thnaks

1 Answer

Niels, The sensor would not be the issue if you jumped out the fan and it started to work. The control board would be the issue and would need to be replaced.

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Russ W for Model Number Ziss480nm

I bought a main control board assembly that I just installed and I still have the same problem regarding the fridge lights. Freezer lights work. Sabbath switch is on. Fridge lights don't work. Door switch seems to be fine because when I manually press it down with door open the temperature numbers inside the fridge go on and off with switch. I have replaced two of the four lightbulbs inside the fridge just to be certain it's not the bulbs. All of the research I did points to the fridge light relay is part of the main control board. My question: is there a separate light relay or is the main control board I got from you bad? Order # 3707370 Thank you Russ

1 Answer

Russ, Most likely the issue would be caused by a faulty transformer for the refrigerator lights.

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1 Answer

Gary, According to the wiring diagram and service manual, the J7 connector is an 8 wire/9 pin connector. It is a 120 VAC power out, to other components of the dispenser and door switches ?

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Dave for Model Number zics360nmcr

Hello I'm having a problem with an intermittent high pitched Electronic noise coming from below the freezer compartment (on the bottom of the unit). This is not a mechanical noise (ie squeak from fan blade or other moving parts). It is definitely an electronic beep, not real loud, but loud enough to be irritating. It's not the door alarm either. I have cleaned the unit thoroughly including the radiator. Also, the ice maker in the freezer is shut off at the switch. I have unplugged the fridge to hopefully reset the circuit board and have reset the unit on the water filter change reset button. The beep only comes on when the compressor is running. The noise occurs for 2 seconds, then off for 2 seconds then on again for two seconds, etc. Do you have any thoughts? Thanks. Dave

1 Answer

Dave, This unit does not have any electrical components that would be underneath the unit. There is a heat loop that refrigerant runs through to evaporate the water from defrost. The noise may be from the liquid in this coil flowing but other than that there is nothing electrical under the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Malaboman. I would start with the temperature sensors. There is one in the fresh food WR55X10025 section and one in the freezer WR55X10025 section. Both are behind oval louvered covers that snap off. The one in the fresh food section is about halfway down and the one in the freezer is at the bottom. There's only 2 wires to each. They must be cut off and spliced in. Remember to cut the wires to the old sensors as close to the old sensor as possible to give as much wire to work with as possible for convenience sake. I hope you find this useful! Have a great day and good luck!

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Disgusted for Model Number ZISB480DMC

My refirgerator has been losing coldness in both freezer and fridge sections. Someone came out and chaged the compressor, it worked for a few days then the problem was back. He came back and replaced the start capacitor and the start relay. It worked for the afternoon and this morning the floor is soaking wet and both sides are again losing coldness. Now he's telling me it's the main computer board. Does this sound correct and if so what's cost of a replacement board? Thanks.

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