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Customer Questions and Answers for Thermostat (Microwave) by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM6078318
Manufacturer Part Number: WB27X10195

This microwave thermostat is a temperature-sensitive safety switch that helps protect the unit from overheating. When the preset limit is reached, it interrupts power to the affected circuit to help prevent damage and erratic shutdowns.

  • Monitors temperature at its mounting location and opens the circuit if overheating is detected
  • Helps protect internal components from excessive heat
  • Common symptoms of a failed thermostat include: unit shuts off during cooking, won't start until it cools down, or has no power/no heat due to an open safety
  • Replace if the original tests open when it should be closed
What's included: One thermostat Install notes:
  • Disconnect power by unplugging the unit or switching off the circuit breaker before servicing
  • Microwaves contain a high-voltage capacitor that can retain a dangerous charge; only qualified persons should service and discharge the capacitor
  • Note wire locations before removal and transfer connections firmly to the new thermostat
  • Mount the thermostat securely and in the same position to ensure proper temperature sensing

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Thermostat (Microwave) (Part Number: OEM6078318)

Mike for Model Number JVM1842BD001

I have a GE Spacemaker XL1800 (model JVM1842BD001). The microwave just stopped working, no power. I checked the fuses and found the one under the air hood on top of the microwave wasn't working, or at least I don't think it's working. I tested it for continuity and it was open. I'm not sure it this one should test open or closed. The part number is WB27X10195. There's a lot of grease build up that was around the fuse and the blower motor. Would this cause the fuse to fail? There was enough grease that you can see the imprint of where the fuse was.

1 Answer

Mike, The thermal cutoff should read closed for continuity which would mean that it is bad since reading open. With what could cause the issue, grease build up around it could cause the thermal to get too hot but is normally caused by something inside the unit getting too hot and causing the failure.

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1 Answer

Ken, Normally when there is an issue in which the ceramic fuse keeps blowing the issue is with the door switches in which the switches would need to be replaced at the same time as the fuse.

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1 Answer

James, You will want to check the continuity of the cavity thermal cut off and make sure that it has continuity. If not then replace the thermal cutoff.

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1 Answer

Hello Roger. You most likely have a "high voltage" side malfunction. Transformer, diode, magnetron, Capacitor. You will need to be extremely careful if you decide to test the components with a multi meter, Very high residual voltage is present, so make sure you remove power to the microwave and short across the terminals on the capacitor. The magnetron should have a reading of less than 1 ohm resistance across the two terminals, and an "open" circuit between each terminal and chassis ground. The diode/rectifier should have a resistance reading in one direction only, no resistance, or resistance in both directions indicate a faulty diode. The primary winding on the trans former should read approximately 450 Ohms resistance, the secondary winding should read 80 ohms resistance, and the filament transformer should read 100 ohms resistance. If all the readings are proper and in range, replace the magnetron.

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Benjamin for Model Number JVM1440WH01

Hello. I have a GE model JVM1440WH01 that runs normally but does not heat. I tested the cap and it measures OK at 886nF. I also tested the magnatron and it shows 0.2ohms between terminals and no shorts to ground. I have also tested the three door switches and they open/close with the door. One is shorted with the harness attached but operates normally with no connections. Is this normal? The only possible issues I can find is the high voltage diode. I am using a Fluke 87 and cannot get a reading in diode mode. I also found one thermal switch that is open but I am aware that there is one switch that should operate this way. This switch is mounted the metal cover that is removed to access the transformer and magnatron. Is this the one that should be N/O? Thanks in advance!

1 Answer

Benjamin, For testing the diode here is a link that will help. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/microwave-repair/19868-diode-testing.html You will want to test the transformer on the unit to make sure that it is good. The primary winding on the trans former should read approximately 450 Ohms resistance, the secondary winding should read 80 ohms resistance, and the filament transformer should read 100 ohms resistance. If all the readings are proper and in range, replace the magnetron.

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John for Model Number RVM1535DM2WW

RE: Hotpoint rvm1535dmww The mw completely died. No display - no beeps - no nothing. Outlet is fine. I temporarily bypassed the "first" TCO (i.e. the one that comes right off the line power source), and the unit came back to life - so I know the TCO needs to be replaced. I've search everywhere and can't tell whether this one is WB27X10194 or WB27X10195. I've looked high and low, and can't find technical specs for either of these part numbers, so I can't tell which is the one I need to order. Do you know/have specs for each of these (WB27X10194 and WB27X10195) so I can figure out which one I need to order ? Thanks !

1 Answer

Nancy, With the fan and the lights not working, the most likely cause for this would be a faulty control board.

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Jonathan B. for Model Number 2007 ge microwave jvm1740dm1bb

I heard an intermittent sound one day, there's power but the clock button is not responding. I unplugged it and plugged it back in it says press clock but still not responding. I tried other buttons such as express heat and it responds, but then after trying to press different buttons it says shorted keypad. I tried unplugging it and plugged it back in. There's power but no keypad are responding. Any suggestions?Any parts that need to replaced? Thanks

1 Answer

Hello Jonathan, You need to open the control panel and check the ribbon cable from the membrane switch WB07X11040 to the control. If cleaning it with a dry pencil eraser, (rub with eraser only toward the end of the ribbon cable to prevent damage to same), doesn't correct the issue, you will have to replace the membrane switch to restore normal operation.

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Derek M for Model Number JVM1860SF001

I have a GE model JVM1860SF001. My wife said our power surged this week and she had to reset several breakers to the kitchen outlets. The microwave is completely dead (no display, no lights, no fan), and I tried different household outlets just to be sure it was getting power. Both 20 amp fuses ("main" and "HVT") showed closed, I bought new ones just to be sure and still nothing. Checked the three thermostats; the one immediately behind the key pad was closed, the one just 3" aft of that showed open, and the third one located above the power supply was also closed. The thermostat is "NT101 KIE", and all three are the same part number. Should this second thermostat be reading closed, and if so, does power applied to this thermostat open it by a switch? If replacing this thermostat doesn't fix the issue, I'm out of my league and will have to take it to a professional. Many thanks in advance!

1 Answer

Derek, Since the main fuse checks ok then test for 120 vac to the control board. If there is 120 vac to the control board then replace the Control board. If there is no power then the thermal cut off that is showing open would need to be replaced.

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