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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Cycling Thermostat by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM6127863
Manufacturer Part Number: WE4M216

Dryer won't heat, overheats, or shuts off mid-cycle? A faulty cycling thermostat often causes these issues. Easy DIY fix with our video guide.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Dryer Cycling Thermostat (Part Number: OEM6127863)

Joe S for Model Number GE Dryer DPSB619ED2WW

My GE Profile dryer is 20+ years old but I regularly maintain it and it appears almost new. While the dryer generally runs fine, the warmest I have measured it is to about 130F, and it takes much longer to dry clothes than it used to. About a year ago and in an effort to fix this, I replaced the heating element. This did not seem to fix the problem so about a year later I opened up the dryer again to find the new outer heating element coil to be dark as if it has been operating, while the inner coil still shiny silver brand new. When I operate the dryer with the top cover off I can indeed see the heating element glow, but with the drum installed and operating I do not have line of sight to see if BOTH coils are working. I've run various continuity and ohm resistance tests on the thermostats and resistors and they all seem within normal range. I also did a continuity test of the circuit wires for the outer heating element coil and inner coil. While I have lost the schematics to the dryer, what I think I have found is that the outer coil is regulated by the temperature sensors while the inner coil circuit/hot seems to lead straight back to the control board. My guess is that the relay that controls the inner heating element is bad, and the new heating element inner coil being shiny clean has never worked, and that I'll need to replace the control board. Curious if my diagnosis makes sense to you or perhaps another item could be the issue. Thank you - Joe

1 Answer

Thank you for your Question, Joe. The most common issue for long dry times is an airflow issue. You would need to check the vent system from inside the dryer all the way outside. For a short test, pull the dryer away from the wall, disconnect the vent from the machine, and run a load with the vent off. If it dries normally, then the issue is definitely the vent system. The relays on the control can be checked with a multimeter.

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Rose for Model Number DBXR463EB1WW

My dryer stopped heating up but still tumbles and blows cold air. I noticed the vent was very clogged and cleaned it out. The timer is not advancing on automatic settings, but it does advance on the timed setting (although a ticking sound can be heard on this setting including when the machine is not running). I was wondering if it is more likely to be the timer motor or if the machine got too hot from the clogged vent and blew the thermal fuse?

1 Answer

Hello Rose, Since the duct was stopped up, the safety thermostat WE4M137 will need to be replaced since it acts as a thermal fuse and will not close again once it opens. Correcting the ducting issue will prevent the safety thermostat from opening again, correcting the problem.

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1 Answer

David, it sounds like the unit is overheating and it would be recommended that the dryer ducts, including what runs from the wall to the outside of the building, be cleaned as clogged vents are a common cause for this failure.

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1 Answer

Hello James, the inner and outer heater elements are both controlled by relays on the main control board, likely the relay for the inner heater element is failing, the control board is part WE4M296.

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1 Answer

Leigh, it would be recommended that the wire harness going to the control WE04X10102, as well as what goes to the sensor bars, are inspected for any bare spots that could create a grounded circuit running through the board. If the wires are good, and the sensor bars are thoroughly clean, we would not be able to present a specific reason of failure.

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1 Answer

Hello Sylvie, You will need to replace the motor assembly WE17X10010 since the centrifugal switch inside the motor assembly is stuck in the closed position.

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1 Answer

Vince, Check the door switch to make sure that the switch test ok. Also check to make sure that the belt switch is good and the thermal fuse has not blown. If the thermal fuse is blown then check the venting from the blower wheel to the outside of the home for clogs.

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1 Answer

Davi, You will want to check to make sure that there is nothing causing drag on the motor. Check the bearings, the bearing slides and check blower wheel to make sure that there is nothing caught in the wheel. If all this checks ok then this would likely be a faulty motor.

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1 Answer

Raymond, You could have a weak ignitor not letting the coils open the gas valve. Your ignitor should pull 3.2 to 3.5 amps to make the gas coils open. WE04X25996 is your ignitor. There is a viewing window in the base of your unit where you can watch the ignitor and flame after it's firing.

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