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Customer Questions and Answers for Surface Burner Valve (Control) by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM9618630
Manufacturer Part Number: WB21T10014

This surface burner control valve regulates gas flow to a single cooktop or range burner, allowing smooth ignition and precise flame adjustment. Replace a worn or stiff valve to restore consistent, reliable burner control.

  • Regulates gas from the manifold to an individual surface burner as the knob is turned
  • Opens/closes the gas path to ignite and adjust flame height
  • Helps maintain a steady flame at low and high settings
  • Common symptoms: burner won't light or only lights with a match, flame won't adjust or is uneven, control knob hard to turn or seized, gas odor near the control area
What's included: 1 surface burner control valve
  • Disconnect power and shut off the gas supply before servicing
  • Remove the knob and access panel to reach the valve; label and disconnect gas tube fittings
  • Support the manifold with a second wrench when loosening/tightening fittings; do not overtighten
  • After installation, restore gas and check all connections for leaks using a non-flammable leak-detection solution; verify proper ignition and flame adjustment

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$139.25
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$167.10
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Questions & Answers

For Ge Surface Burner Valve (Control) (Part Number: OEM9618630)

Dfhalstead for Model Number JGS968SEK2SS

When I program in the temp. for the oven it takes forever (2 minutes or more to lite) then when it finally ignites it never gets to the temp set. It act as if it isn't getting enough fuel. The broiler works good, also the stovetop burners work good. It's just the baking on convection oven and standard oven both.A couple of times the oven has made a loud noise when it ignited like a small explosion.The ignitor seems to be working. What other problem could it be?

1 Answer

DF, The most likely issue is a weak bake burner igniter WB13T10045 . The igniter needs to draw 3.2 to 3.6 amps to open the safety valve properly. If the amperage draw is low, it can cause a delayed ignition and produce a "small explosion", it will also cause erratic temperatures in the oven as you described.

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1 Answer

Hello Jim, If both ignitors are pulling from 3.2 to 3.6 amps of current, the gas valve WB21T10014 is the next suspect as long as the gas supply has been verified.

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Chris

For a Part number NC-4175-5 or Y-30148-23 gas safety valve there are two pins on the top and two on the bottom which is the input? I have 120vac going to the bottom 2 pins, not sure if the safety valve is bad, the igniter is new but won't glow I am measuring around 40vac from one pin to ground igniter side, it appears to be not enough voltage measured the current could not measure anything igniter side that is. I have pictures of the ohms, and voltage I measured on the safety valve, don't know how I can attach, if it would be helpful.

1 Answer

Tony, Remove power from the range and disconnect the wires from the bake portion of the safety valve WB21T10014. use a meter and check for a "closed" circuit across the two terminals, to be sure. If the broil burner works "My broiler and stove top works fine.", it's not likely to be a broken or loose wire connection, but should be checked out, also.

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1 Answer

Kurt, To access the control valve you will need to pull the unit out and the valve is located on the back of the unit.

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Doc for Model Number JGSP28BEK4BB

Recently, I moved back into a home that I had rented for almost two years. One thing I found was, the oven would have a gas smell when operating. Eventually, the oven would not maintain temp...the flame wouldn't reduce after reaching temp setting and I could smell a faint odor of gas. I have now started troubleshooting and upon turning on the gas supply valve (I had it turned off for safety as I didn't have the time to investigate at that time), I can hear the gas inside the stove hissing when nothing (except the supply valve)has been turned on...the oven was even unplugged. I shut off the gas, again, and removed the valve from the back of the oven... Part# Y-30148-23 (or NC-4175-5) looking to replace it as this is the only solution my limited experience in appliances can deduce. I guess I'm wanting to confirm this as the problem/solution before I order parts as I'm not an appliance repairman...just a well-rounded, mechanically inclined humble carpenter.

1 Answer

Doc, Yes the WB21T10014,internal valve can "stick" and leak gas from the valve. It doesn't happen very often, But if you're sure all the brass fittings are tight and not leaking, (test with soapy water solution) and also check the regulator connections WB19T10073 then replace the valve

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1 Answer

Hello Chris, You will want to check the burner to make sure that the burner does not have any clogging. If the burner checks ok then it may be necessary to replace the oven safety valve WB21T10014.

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1 Answer

Hello Margaret, You would want to check the resistance of the oven sensor. The sensor should have a resistance of 1100 ohms at room temperature. If it is outside of this by plus or minus 50 ohms. If outside this range then the tempature sensor WB21X22134 would need to be replaced. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Roy, Before you replace anything, do you have the same issue when the broil burner is used ? We wouldn't expect the new igniter to have an issue, but a loose connection in the wiring, or a dirty or defective bake burner WB16T10022 The flame on the burner, in the area of the igniter must be large or long enough to heat the igniter enough to maintain the resistance in the circuit to keep the oven safety valve open and maintain the flame.

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