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Customer Questions and Answers for Igniter Sensor by Lg

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Lg
Part Number: OEM13331328
Manufacturer Part Number: 6501EL3001A

The Igniter Sensor is an OEM part for LG dryers. This sensor plays a critical role in the ignition process, ensuring that the gas ignites properly to produce the heat necessary for drying clothes efficiently. It helps monitor and regulate the ignition temperature.

Over time, the igniter sensor can become faulty due to regular use, exposure to high temperatures, or electrical issues. These factors can lead to a malfunction, resulting in the dryer not heating properly or failing to start.

Symptoms of a bad igniter sensor include:

  • Dryer not heating up
  • Long drying times
  • Dryer not starting
  • Unusual smells or noises during operation

This OEM LG part is also compatible with Sears/Kenmore.

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Questions & Answers

For Lg Igniter Sensor (Part Number: OEM13331328)

1 Answer

Miguel, With the unit having power to it, you will want to test where the power cord attaches to the control board test for 120 vac at this point. If there is not 120 vac then the power cord would be the issue. If there is 120 vac then the main control board would be the issue.

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1 Answer

Robert, You will want to check the thermal fuse and high limit thermostat and cycling thermostat to make sure that they have continuity. If any do not have continuity then the part would need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Gary, You will need to test the thermostats on the unit to make sure that they have continuity. If there is no continuity then it will need to be replaced. If the thermostats check ok then check to see if the igniter is coming on and test for voltage of 120 vac getting to the igniter. If there is power to the igniter but does not come on then the igniter would need to be replaced.

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Peter for Model Number dlg3788w

Hello, I really need your advice. I having trouble finding out the exact problem that causing my dryer to not work correctly. Now my issue is the dryer wasn't drying the clothes. First I thought it was the igniter, so I replace that. But when I got the part in took the old one out, the one inside looks brand new still. So I went to my second option, I replace the thermostat, high temp thermostat. Now dryer work but doesn't work after first load. I open back up the dryer to reset thermal fuse, the same thing happens again. Its just work one load then stop. Now I have checked everything inside the dryer. It is super clean, I vacuum out everything, the air vent isn't clog and seem to work fine. Now can you suggest me what else could be the problem before I go and spend all this money on parts that wasn't even the main issue causing the dryer to not operate right. I'm thinking maybe flame sensor that is next to high temp on the bottom because when I was checking every parts to see if something was wrong, I notice it was crack a little on top. I just want some tip you can tell me to do because so far I ended buying parts around $50-$100 already and it wasn't even the problem that causing it to act that way. What else do you think could be the problem that pops the fuse on the high temp thermostat? Please help

1 Answer

Peter, With the unit only drying one load then causing the thermostat to trip would not be caused by a faulty flame sensor. All components sound like they are working and in most cases when this is happening the issue is with the venting being a issue whether it is clogged or restricted. While you have already stated that you checked this it would be good to check again to make sure. It is also possible that there is a thermistor that is faulty and causing this issue to occur. Test the thermistors on the unit and make sure that none of them are out of range. The resistance at room temperature should be approximately 10K ohms at room temp of 77 degrees.

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Dave for Model Number DLG0452W

The dryer will not activate the gas valves to fire. The Ignitor glows after a minute and then shuts off, but no gas is released to ignite. I replaced the Gas Valve and still the same result. I have checked resistance and Continuity to all sensors and they read as working. Is it possible the flame sensor is malfunctioning? It appears to work as the Ignitor cycles on and off. There is continuity (closed) when I read the Sensor but I have noticed that when I power up the dryer that the upper part of the sensor reads 120 volts but the lower connector reads none even when it appears to have continuity? I was assuming that the flame sensor would pass through the power? I am at a loss and am also wondering if it could be the control board? Thank you for the help.

1 Answer

Dave, With the igniter coming on but there not being any flame and new gas valve, the flame sensor would most likely be causing the unit to not light.

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1 Answer

Hello Kelly. If the unit heats then quits, it sounds like the gas coils are bad and you may need to replace the gas valve assembly 5221EL2002A on the unit.

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Jose for Model Number dlg2524w

dryer starts and heats appropiately. Lint trap is clean. Dryer will not honor time specified. LG dryer is set to run for 40 minutes. After operating for several minutes with display correctly reflecting the amount of time requested and then remaining, abruptly display will jump dramatically reducing the amount of time left. Say .after running only five. Unites of the 40 minutes.,suddently machine's display indicates only 6 or 3 minutes left. 3 minutes later, the machine shuts off, clotes are not fully dry, you can giftme a solution to this problem please.Thank you.The model# DLG2524W LGdryer

William V for Model Number DLG0332W

I've had this dryer for about 10 years and overall am happy with it. I was having a problem were after running for a awhile it would trip the high limit thermostat (the one with the small black reset button on it). I'd open up the dryer, reset the switch and it would run again for a while. I ended up replacing that switch and all was perfect for about 6 months. Then came my new problem. You can start the dryer, the heat kicks on and a few minutes later, the circuit breaking in the house trips. After doing some research, it was to be believed that it was either the house breaker or the dryer motor. I tried the dryer on other circuits in the house and it tripped them as well. At that point, I ordered a new motor. Installed the motor and the same problem exists. I have now also replaced the power control board and yet again the breaker still trips (about 5 minutes into the cycle). If I run the dryer on Air Dry, it doesn't trip...I should have tried that before ordering a motor:(. Now, I have three new parts in the dryer and no idea as to what is tripping the house circuit breaker. Any help would be appreciated.

1 Answer

William, The first thing that you will want to check is for would be a wire that may be exposed and hitting the cabinet. If this checks ok then would most likely be a issue with the motor.

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Digger for Model Number LG - DLE2701V

The dryer doesn't completely dry the clothes. Frequently they are damp after a timed cycle. When the cycle is completed the clothes are still quite warm. The lint filter is clean. The exhaust vent is 6' long, constructed of 4" rigid vent pipes with 2 right angle turns. The exhaust vent pipe is clean and unobstructed. The unit is 2 years old. The voltage input does not fluctuate. It is steady at 240 volts. The problem exists with a full load or lightly loaded. What do you think might be the problem?

1 Answer

Digger, The most likely cause would be a air restriction in the unit. You will want to check the blower wheel to make sure that no filter sheets have gotten in it or lint being built up around the blower wheel and causing the unit to not have good air flow.

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John D for Model Number DLG8388WM

Our dryer managed to run all night. It was so hot in the morning, my wife could barely touch the case. Now it seems the main board has fried. It won't even turn on, and the board smells burned. AC voltage is verified at 120 AC to the board. Also, both thermostats appear to test as bad. Thank goodness I vacuum out all lint annually. Very easily could have had a fire. Previously, the moisture sensor was not working properly. The clothes would remain wet. 1. I plan on replacing the main board, and both the hi-limit and the safety thermostat. 2. If the moisture bars are OK and the wires are connected, what controls the moisture sensor for dryness? (Same board I'm replacing?) 3. What does the thermister do? 4. Any other parts you would recommend to change after this overheating episode? THANK YOU!

1 Answer

Hello John. The thermistor will need to be replaced as well. If all that is replaced, then the unit should sense the load properly.

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