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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Thermostat by Samsung

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Samsung
Part Number: OEM12605691
Manufacturer Part Number: DC47-00016A

The Dryer Thermostat is an essential component for maintaining the optimal performance of your Samsung dryer. This genuine OEM part ensures precise temperature regulation, preventing overheating and enhancing the safety of your appliance. Designed specifically for Samsung dryers, it guarantees a perfect fit and seamless integration with your existing system. With accurate temperature control, this thermostat helps your dryer operate efficiently, reducing energy consumption and extending the lifespan of your machine. Installing the Dryer Thermostat is straightforward, allowing you to quickly restore your dryer's functionality without hassle. By choosing this genuine OEM part, you can trust in the quality and durability that Samsung is known for, ensuring your dryer performs at its best for years to come. Whether you are replacing a faulty thermostat or upgrading your dryerGÇÖs components, the Dryer Thermostat offers the reliability and performance you need for a smooth and efficient drying experience. Invest in this high-quality thermostat to keep your laundry routine running seamlessly and enjoy the benefits of a well-maintained dryer.

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Questions & Answers

For Samsung Dryer Thermostat (Part Number: OEM12605691)

1 Answer

LS, You would want to check the thermostats and thermal fuse on the unit to make sure that they are good. If this checks ok then There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the Control board. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the control board side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad .

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1 Answer

Hello Stephanie. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater and thermostats and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter MA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. If good, you will need to replace the main board on the unit. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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Forrest for Model Number DV331 AER AXX 02

My dryer wouldn't begin it's cycle. So I dismantled it according to the video. I verified that all pathways from the heating element and the blower assembly ( including impeller) were clean and clear. This is especially easy for the exhaust because there is only 18-20'' of travel before reaching the exterior of my home. The thermistor tested within its appropriate ranges of resistance given ambient temperature at 84F with 8.63 ohms. The thermostat (high limit switch) functioned as designed, opening and closing at 250F. The thermal fuse tested positive for continuity as did the heating element. The only failure I discovered was the thermal fuse on the blower assembly. It failed to register continuity. So I replaced it. The new one was installed and the dryer ran fine for 20 min, then quit. So again dismantled, cleaned, and tested. Again the thermal fuse on the blower assembly. This time I watched your replacement video on that part. Matt, the tech in the video made it seem there was an importance to the orientation of the harness with the two brown wires on it when reconnecting it to the thermal fuse. I don't want to replace this fuse again and again without finding out why it blew so fast.The only issue I see is that I definitely had the harness plugged in differently then Matt did in the video. I know this because I took pictures of everything before I touched it. SO, My question is, is this my problem, I reconnected the harness improperly? The video I am referencing is: "Step by step instructions on how to replace a Thermal Fuse #DC47-00016A". The event in the video takes place at 7 min, 04 sec. Thank you so much for your time and effort in helping me resolve this, I look forward to your responce, -Forrest

1 Answer

Kenneth, The power not coming on at all will most likely be caused by a faulty main control board. You will want to test to make sure that there is power to the board and if there is then the board is faulty. The reason for the board would be because it would start but then shut off immediately as the start to the problem which would not be a thermal fuse causing this.

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1 Answer

Hello Mike. It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly.

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1 Answer

Terry, You will want to check the thermal fuse to make sure that it has continuity. If it is blown then there are a couple of things that could cause this, a bad high limit or a thermistor that is reading improperly causing the heater to stay on. Also make sure that the vent is clean all the way to the outside of your home.

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1 Answer

Hello Travis. It sounds like the motor is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit.

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Robert for Model Number DV410AER/XAA

I have a Samsung dryer. It has a 4 prong cord and our new house has a three prong wall plug. I installed a 4 receptor wall plug and put accidentally placed one 120 phase wire into the second ground. When I turned the dryer on the control panel lit up and functioned properly for about 20 to 30 seconds. Then it made a popping sound and I could smell a burnt smell. I fixed the wall socket but the dryer is still dead with no power. Can you help me with a part that would be first to try in working forward for a fix.

Ryan Burrell for Model Number dv42h5200ep/A3

Hello, I have the Samsung dryer listed. (Electric). The dryer runs fine, but there is absolutely no heat. Not even for a second. I've pulled the dryer apart and inspected the heating element. Looks brand new. (The dryer is 16 months old) Checked voltage and on main board and its fine. I'm wondering what you think might be the best parts to order. I'm perfectly fine with a shot gun approach and spending extra money on parts (As it would cost literally hundreds to have someone come out). I was thinking of ordering a moisture sensor and a thermistor. Can you think of any other parts or anything I can do to narrow down the issue? Thank you!

1 Answer

Ryan, The first thing to check would be the thermostats on the unit for continuity. If there is continuity on the thermostats then they are good. Check the thermistor and make sure that it is good. If the thermostats and thermistor check ok then There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the control. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the control side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad .

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Mark M for Model Number DV50F9A6EVW/A2-0001

All this started after the night the dryer was working properly, than I heard a thumping/buzzing sound when the drum was spinning. I pressed the power button off. When I press the start/pause button there is a buzzing sound coming from the motor and the drum turns, than stops. This sound last 5 seconds, then stops. I press the start/pause button again the drum doesn't spin and there is buzzing sound from the motor for 5 seconds than it stops. I can spin the drum, but it seems to have a little drag and not completely free to spin. I opened the top of the dryer and noticed the belt is not broke. I'm not sure if the motor or starting switch is bad? Should I try to remove the front panel and drum/drive belt to take load off motor and try to run the dryer to see if the buzzing sounds still exist?

1 Answer

Mark, Yes you could remove the front panel and check to see if the unit still makes the buzzing noise without the belt attached. You will also want to check the blower housing to make sure that there is nothing caught in it. If there is then clear it out and recheck.

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