Customer Questions and Answers for Thermostat And Mounting Plate Kit by Speedqueen

Curly, The videos we supply are for "general" information, just an idea of what to expect and basic knowledge of the steps needed to replace similar parts. The 489P3 Limit Thermostat and the WP503979 Regulating thermostat, are different components, rated at different temperatures, and located in two different areas of the dryer. The hi limit thermostat is usually mounted of the element housing(elec.) or the burner cone (gas) . The regulating thermostat is usually mounted on the blower housing on either machine. We would have been happy to supply the part numbers and location of the parts had you included a model number or better idea of what was wrong with the machine. Thanks,

Hello Gil. The thermostat should read closed for continuity if good. Thanks.

Rick, The most common cause for the noise would be that the rollers are making the noise with them getting hot. The issue with the unit not shutting off on the auto dry would be a bad cycling thermostat.

Hello Chris, I'm sorry but we will need to ask you to post a new question including this information and the model number from your units' I.D. tag so we can see what configuration/design unit you have in your home and recommend parts that can be guaranteed to work properly on your unit. Thank you for your patience and understanding in this matter.

Curtis, It's an easy diagnoses, but not that easy. You will need a multi meter, and you will need to test each thermostat for a "closed" circuit on each one, with the wires removed. Which ever thermostat has an "open" circuit, it's the culprit. The hi limit switch 489P3 is the more susceptible part. It is a "limited duty" safety device that can fail if operated as a cycling thermostat, due to a clogged vent, overloading, or similar circumstances. The re is a process to isolate the problem. Disconnect the gas valve wire harness from the main wire harness, start the dryer on a heat cycle and check for 120 VAC across the two wires in the main harness, if there's no voltage, then start checking the thermostats, timer and wires. If there is voltage across the wires, the problem will be in the gas valve assembly components( coils, flame switch, igniter and wiring.

Hello Rich. You will need to test the thermostats and the coils and make sure they are good. Also, check the igniter to see if it is good. If it is not glowing, test for power. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter for the testing procedures. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Norman, This issue would not be caused by the timer. If the unit is continuing to run but just will not heat then the issue will most likely be caused by faulty gas coils that when they get heated up loose their connection and would need new gas solenoids.

Hello Rick, The only thing that affects the automatic cycle that doesn't affect the timed dry cycle is moisture being recirculated inside the unit. If the ducting is in fact clear, the unit has to have a bad drum seal or similar seal that is allowing the moist exhaust air to re-enter the cabinet. If the timed dry is operating properly, there is no thermostat issue.

Mary, Based on the information, if the dryer does not restart then the thermal fuse would need to be replaced and you will want to check the dryer venting from the blower wheel to the outside of the unit to make sure that it is clean.

Hello YR. You need to look for a venting issue. If it is good, replace the gas valve coils on the unit.