J Kang August 07, 2013 for Model Number MFF2558VEB I have a Maytag french door unit. I have had an issue with the vents in the back of the lower door freezer section frosting up, especially on the sides. When this occurs, the fridge vent does not receive air and is not cold. When I run the forced defrost with the freezer door shut, it does not melt the frost. However, when I run the forced defrost with the freezer door slightly open, I can see the head hitting the coils and hear the sound of ice melting, as well as visibly see it melting. After the cycle and shutting the door, the vents frost again within 24 hours. Based on this situation, is it safe to assume that the control board is faulty because the heater seems to be working correctly?
1 Answer Hello J kang. I would look for a leaking door gasket letting the coils frost over. It sounds like the defrost system is working based on the test you did. May have an issue with the door not sealing. If it is not the door gasket, then you will need to replace the control board on the unit. Read More...
Blake August 01, 2013 for Model Number mff2258vead Changing control on this ref. Do I need to reset code. The new control has no instructions. If answer is yes what the procedure to reset control?
1 Answer Hello Blake. Yes, you need to program the board. Programming Mode: Note: The Program Code is located on the Serial Plate on this unit after the word Code. 1. Open the Fresh Food door and hold the Fresh Food door light switches closed while pushing the Freezer Temperature DOWN /- Key pad 3 times consecutively. Note: The 3 Keystrokes must be done consecutively and within 10 seconds. 2. Release the Fresh Food door light switch. 3. The control will display P - E to confirm entry into the programming mode. 4. Entry is confirmed by pressing the Freezer Temperature DOWN /- key once more. Note: All control functions will be turned off (Compressor, Defrost, Evaporator Fan, the damper will remain in its current position). 5. The control will display the current Program Code. This value should be validated with the Program Code printed on the unit serial plate. Note: If the Program Code is correct, the Programming Mode is exited by closing the Refrigerator door(s). 6. To set the desired Program Code number press the Freezer and Refrigerator UP /+ keys. The corresponding digit will be advanced with each key press. 7. Once the desired Program Code is displayed, press the Freezer Temperature DOWN /- Key until the Program Code begins flashing indicating it has been saved. Note: If you attempt to enter an invalid Program Code the control will not save the new code, but will flash the old code and this will be displayed. (The unit will NOT run with a Program Code of OO). 8. Once the Program Code has been saved the Programming Mode is exited by closing the Refrigerator door(s). If the new code is incorrect this process should be repeated after closing the Refrigerator door(s). The Programming mode can be exited at any time by closing the Refrigerator Door(s). Read More...
Michelle May 28, 2013 for Model Number 596.65234403 Kenmore bottom freezer 596.65234403. frost in freezer warm box. My first thought -- a defrost problem. A repair man came out, put a loop tester around the power cord and some other type of cord to electrically outlet. Next he tells me the control board is bad and needs to be replaced. I didn't ask to see what the readings were on the tester. That was all he tested. I have a few questions -- is this the proper way to test a circuit board? Wouldn't a mechanical part (defrost thermosat) go out before a PCB? Doesn't this fridge have mechanical parts? I wasn't convinced that the board was bad and he didn't have one available so I decided to defrost the coils, let the refrigerator set all night. The next morning I plugged the power cord in and within 2 hours both freezer and box were at the right temps. That was 5 days ago and it's been working perfectly. So, can you answer my questions in case this problem crops up again. Thanks for your help.
1 Answer Michelle, The way to determine that it is the control board that is bad or the defrost heater or thermostat is to do a continuity test on the thermostat and heater. If they check ok then the control would be at fault. This unit does not use a mechanical timer. Read More...
Mark May 23, 2013 for Model Number Whirlpool gx2shbxvy04 It seems that every couple of months the refrigerator starts getting very hot. Of course we go into panic mode, remove all the food, let the unit sit unplugged overnight, then everything returns to normal. No ice buildup, no water accumulation. Seems like it's going into a defrost cycle and not coming off.
1 Answer Mark, You will want to make sure that when the unit is stops cooling that the fans are working. If the fans are not working and the unit is not cooling then the most likely cause would be stuck in defrost. If this is the case you would want to replace the control board WPW10503278. Read More...
Brad May 03, 2013 for Model Number Whirlpool GX5SHDXVQ02 Hello, Refer just under 3 years old. Last month had a similar issue as many people writing in; temp controls no longer working: freezer too cold (-10 to -20) and refer too warm (50 -60). Called repair guy and he removed ice buildup on evaporator coil. He said the problem was due to a defective "check valve". No electrical tests of any circuits performed. Everything normal for a month, until the ice returned and temp controls no longer responding, as before. On the phone he said it was probably the "control board" and would have to order one. However, while waiting for the part, in the last day the refer began working again as normal (I realize that it did not repair itself). Now after reading other peoples comments, I'm wondering if the problem may be an "intermittent" defrost thermostat or heater? Any advise before he comes out again with a part that may not be required, or may not solve the problem? (He also has a 3 hour round-trip drive) Brad
1 Answer Hello Brad. If it started working again, after failure, it sounds like a bad board on the unit. Read More...
Lauren April 17, 2013 for Model Number Whirlpool gx5shtxva00 How do I test the control board? Is it where the temperature controls are? If so, how do I get there?
1 Answer Lauren, The unit has a tech sheet that tells you how to go into the diagnostic mode. By running the diagnostics it will tell you what component has failed. The tech sheet is located under the front right side of unit. To gain access to the control, remove the light cover in the refrigerator compartment. There will be 2 openings, one on either side, slide a flat blade screw driver in the opening and push in. The control cover will slide down. Pull down and roll out. Read More...
Jim April 13, 2013 for Model Number mff2558veb3 My freezer/refrigerator stopped cooling. The fans work, the compressor would click try to start for a few seconds and click and shut down. My friend a professsional refrigeration mechanic said the compressor was not getting enough voltage to run. He hot wired the compressor and it is good. He feels that the electronic temperature control board is causing the problem. What do you think?
1 Answer Jim, The electronic control board is not going to be the issue for the compressor not operating. If the compressor is trying to kick on and cutting out on overload then the problem would be in the start relay. If you put a new start relay on the unit and it does not start then you would need to replace the compressor. Read More...
Bruce April 10, 2013 for Model Number Maytag refer # MBF1958WEW1 In your opinion, what are the odds of the circuit board #AP5657149 fixing my broke Maytag? The evaporator freezes up and I have to defrost it with a hair drier. The unit is 3 years old and Maytag won't help! Thanks, Bruce.
1 Answer Hello Bruce. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Jesthed April 09, 2013 for Model Number JCD2295HES Hello, My fridge is not cooling. Started with compressor making noise. Cleaned coils, checked wingings on compressor and replaced compressor starting device and capacitor. Unit worked and fridge got cold and even started making ice. Then about 4 hours later noise came back. Now unit is not cold again. Could it be the control board going bad? or is there another test i should perform. Thanks
1 Answer Hello Jesthed. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the compressor is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit. Read More...
Kelly March 04, 2013 for Model Number Amana ABL2522FES My amana refrigerator/bottom freezer are not cooling. I have had trouble with the auto defroster a couple times the last year or so so I just replaced the control panel. This did not resolve the issue. I ran the freezer thermistor test and it passed. I've cleaned the coils and the compressor and fan both seem to be working. Any suggestions?
1 Answer Kelly, If the unit is not going throught the auto defrost then you will want to open the back wall in the freezer compartment and check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat for continuity. The defrost thermostat must be below 45 degrees to read continuity. If no continuity then you would need to replace the part. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...