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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Electronic Control Board by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18067209
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10503278

Fix a refrigerator that's not cooling or has temperature control issues. This control board manages defrost and cooling cycles. DIY install in 30 minutes.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Refrigerator Electronic Control Board (Part Number: OEM18067209)

1 Answer

Hello Jim, To remove the control board you will take the light shield off. On the back side there are 2 holds that you will use a flat blade screwdriver and push in on the tabs. This will release tabs and drop the control down for replacement.

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1 Answer

Hello Lee, Try this: Since the fresh food control is responsible for air flow, and I'm assuming you have this set to the warmest setting, try setting the fresh food setting mid-way and set the freezer setting warmer by one number. You see, items in the fresh food compartment will freeze when the air circulation isn't called for often enough. The heavier cold air will migrate backwards through the air return and the bottom half of the fresh food compartment will start freezing items.

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1 Answer

Hello Pete, The icemaker will only show 120vac when the icemaker is cycling. The thermostat on the icemaker will allow power to pass through and circuit will meet up when the thermostat is closed. You can jump start icemaker by inserting a jumper wire between t and h on the motor module. The light switch will also need to be closed. When you jump t to h and the light switch is closed the unit should start cycle. Once it is in a cycle if you check M to N then you should have 120 vac. When it gets to about the 11:30 position if you check v to n you should get 120 vac for a small length of time. If the icemaker does not cycle when jumping t to h then you have a bad module. If it does operate then the thermostat on the icemaker is faulty. You can also check the icemaker thermostat when cold by removing the module and doing a continuity check. If closed then it is good. Check middle 2 terminals for thermostat. Check outer 2 terminals for heater continuity.

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1 Answer

Hello Steve. 1. Remove light shield by sliding shield to rear to release cover. 2. Depress with a screw driver through two slots in the front of the light housing release tabs to release Control Board housing. 3. Control Board housing will drop down exposing Control Board. 4. Unplug two wire harnesses plugged into the Control Board. 5. Release tabs holding Control Board WPW10503278 to housing.

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1 Answer

Ex Amana Fan, First thing to check is the outlet. Mkae sure you are plugged into a 120 VAC, Polarized and Grounded outlet With at least 108 VAC "under a load" (refrigerator on and compressor or defrost cyle operating). You also need consistant voltage. You also want to check for proper power supply and polarity at the control board, and check to insure the pins in the wire harness connector, fit tightly on the pins of the control board. Any issues in the power supply can eventually cause the "memory" in the board to fail, and cause the situation you described. Thanks

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1 Answer

Hello Dave. The buttons have to be pressed as the instruction sheet says to do so. It may take several attempts before it takes the program.

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1 Answer

Hello Tom. If heater and board is new, and you still have a defrost issue, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat WP67004757 in the unit.

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Jerry for Model Number ASD2627KES (Amana)

A couple days ago, the refrigerator side began freezing up. I turned the controls all the way down to 1 (lowest possible) on both freezer and fridge. Continued to freeze. Also, at the same time, the ice maker and water dispenser stopped working. (The water dispenser had stopped working some in the past. But when I started using more ice - or emptying the ice drawer so it could refill - the water dispenser was working again with no problems. I had a repair person come today. He ran diagnostics and found nothing wrong (at least with the set of diagnostics he ran). He also cleaned dirt/lint from the coils at bottom. He is suggesting that we see if cleaning the coils will make any difference. But he is also suggesting that we may need a new control board. What do you think? Is there anything else we can check? I had

1 Answer

Jerry, You'll need to check or replace the "auto damper" WP67006249 based on your post description, it sounds like it has failed in the open position. We'll send you some information so you can run a performance / operation test on the control and components. Thanks

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