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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Electronic Control Board by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18067209
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10503278

Fix a refrigerator that's not cooling or has temperature control issues. This control board manages defrost and cooling cycles. DIY install in 30 minutes.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Refrigerator Electronic Control Board (Part Number: OEM18067209)

Datmai for Model Number MFF2557 HEW

My refrigerator made loud noise for more than a week and then its not cold anymore.... I replace overload&run-cap.after the refrigerator is cold again,the compressor stops after awhile,then the condenser fan motor stops,when the condenser fan motor runs again the compressor sometimes run,after that only the compressor stops and doesn't run again,only made small noise after 5-7 min.if I turn-off refrigerator 1-2 hours turn-on It word again and seem problem...please help me with this....thank you

1 Answer

Hello DatMai. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the compressor W10160407 is bad in the unit and will need to be replaced. If the relay overload is new, and compressor is intermittent, you need to replace the compressor.

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Didesel for Model Number MBF2256HES

I got home and the refrigerator had quit on both freezer and refrigerator next morning same no refrigerator sounds. When I got up, same. We lost all cool. I pulled it out unpluged it pluged it in and it made noise. Still no fans or compressor noise. I took the back covers off and the compessor was cool to the touch. I cleaned it and put it back. I was going to unload it to relatives refrigerator and I smacked it. Then wife pushed refrigerator control and it came on. It ran all day and it is still running great. I suspect the control AP4366538. I set the controls to 3 and 4.

1 Answer

Hello Didesel, If I understand your question and remark, it sounds like you had a bad connection. This could have been where a connector plugs into a board, where the ribbon cable connects the two boards, or it could be where a component is soldered onto the board. I think, since groceries are so expensive, I would replace the control WPW10503278.

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1 Answer

Hello Eddie. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the control board WPW10207861 is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit.

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Leonard for Model Number mbf2254hew

Maytag, freezer bottom compartment, refrigerator top compartment. Freezer section runs at 5 degrees F. Refrigerator will not get any colder than 48 degrees F. NO blockage of vents. Indoor light shuts off when door is closed. Door gaskets good. Indoor fan runs. Damper works. I watched fan damper open and close in relation to digital settings 1-7. Air temperature at damper is 7 degrees F. No ice build up on evaporator. Continuity is good at heater element. I measure 12 volts at heater when not calling for defrost. If the suggestion is to replace the control board what is the explanation for replacing this part given the above conditions? Thanks for your time and answer. Leonard

1 Answer

Hello Leonard. Based on all the information you provided, every part is testing good, but the control board is not reading the correct temperature and is bad and will need to be replaced. No defrost issue, fans work, damper works, and seals are good. So either the thermistor 12002355 or the control board is the issue with the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Jan. 1. Remove light shield by sliding shield to rear to release cover. 2. Depress with a screw driver through two slots in the front of the light housing release tabs to release Control Board housing. 3. Control Board housing will drop down exposing Control Board. 4. Unplug two wire harnesses plugged into the Control Board. 5. Release tabs holding Control Board WPW10503278 to housing.

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1 Answer

Hello Mike, You are correct. The jazz board WPW10503278 controls the defrost cycle. If you replace this board, don't forget that it requires programming to the four digit code on the units' I.D. label.

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1 Answer

Hello Bob, The Amana refrigerator is a bit different wiring configuration in the sense that if the defrost thermostat 12001937 isn't closed, the evaporator fan motor, (freezer fan), will not get voltage. Open the freezer door and see if the fan is running. You may have to press in on the door switch for voltage to be provided to the fan motor. If not, remove the rear freezer wall and check the defrost thermostat for voltage on both sides of it. If there is voltage on one side only while the defrost thermostat is cold, it will require replacement. Another thing I have noticed on these is that if the defrost thermostat is defective, most of the time you can tell by looking at it because the part that is epoxied into the metal cup will be protruding up out of the metal cup part of the assembly. If the defrost thermostat is good, the fan motor WPW10128551 is probably at fault. On the bottom mount configuration, the fan motor failure is the more likely cause.

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Donna for Model Number GB2SHTXTS01

It started with the inside water dispenser not dispensing water (seemed to be frozen, small trickle then would work). About the same time we noticed items in the crispers were frozen. Tried turning down the upper fridge control from 4 to 3, replaced water filter. Called in tech. who replaced the thermistor. Items in crisper not frozen any more but water dispenser seems to freeze up and unfreeze. If crisper drawers are removed for a short time will start dispensing again. Temperature in fridge seems to go extremely cold to warm without controls being adjusted. Is this caused by the Electronic Control Board (AP4366538)?

1 Answer

Hello Donna. If the thermisotr is new, you will need to replace the electronic control WPW10503278 in the unit based on the information you provided.

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1 Answer

Hello David. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Hi Frank. The heater is part # WP12729128. The Control board part # is WPW10503278. Find the supplied tech sheet in the lower kick grill or in the controls. It will explain the process of the diagnostic mode and it will bring up fault code if it senses one. Thank You.

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