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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Electronic Control Board by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18067209
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10503278

Fix a refrigerator that's not cooling or has temperature control issues. This control board manages defrost and cooling cycles. DIY install in 30 minutes.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Refrigerator Electronic Control Board (Part Number: OEM18067209)

1 Answer

Hello Bill, I would first check for a loose wall outlet. If the unit plugs in firmly, you will most likely need to replace the control board WPW10503278.

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1 Answer

Michael, With the thermistor and damper checking ok then the most likely cause for this issue will be caused by a faulty control board WPW10503278.

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1 Answer

Troy, The most likely cause for the unit not cooling but sounding like it is trying to kick on, the issue would be caused by a faulty start relay W10613606. If this part is replaced and the units compressor still does not come on and continues to make the same noise then the compressor is faulty and would need to be replaced. The compressor part number is W10160407.

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1 Answer

Hello Michael, You may have a bad connection or a harness issue. For a more detailed diagnosis, please re-post with the model number from the units' I.D. tag. Thank you for your patience and understanding in this matter.

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1 Answer

Pete, The model tag should be on the inside wall of the refrigerator right side wall. Unfortunately if the model tag is not there we would not be able to assist with locating it. You may need to contact the manufacturer.

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1 Answer

Marylu, You will want to pull the rear wall in the freezer compartment and check the evaporator coils. The evaporator coils should have a full even frost pattern from top of coils to the bottom. If the coils do not have a even frost pattern and are impacted with frost then the issue will be with the defrost system. If there is very little frost on the coils and just a little or none at the top then this would be either a restriction or leak in the sealed system. Also make sure that the condenser coils are clean and the condenser fan motor is running.

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1 Answer

Trebark, You will want to access the control board and using a multimeter set to VAC, chec for 120 vac from pin 1 on the J1 connector which is white wire, to pin 8 on the J2 connector which is Blk/Red. If there is 120 vac present at this point but no voltage to the fan motor then the issue will be caused by faulty wiring. You will also want to check the thermistor to make sure that it has a resistance reading of 10K ohms at 77 degrees, 29.5K ohms at 36 degrees and 86.3K ohms at 0 degrees. If out of tolerance it is bad and would need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Scott, We attempted to send you some illustrated information and technical information to help diagnose the refrigerator, but it was returned as not deliverable. Based on the post you'll need to check the shelves and baskets to make sure there's nothing blocking the doors or drawer from closing and sealing properly. Then use the tech data sheet (located behind the kick plate grill, in the plastic bag and program the control into the forced defrost cycle and see if the problem is in the defrost components or the control board.

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