Scott January 01, 2016 for Model Number MBF1953YEB4 My maytag iced up. Now I have dashed lines in the control panel [-][-]. I cleaned the drain tube and the ice and nothing? Using my fluke I tested the starting relay, defroster coil, fan motors. I'm not sure how to pull the control panel with out damaging it or I would test it as well. Any suggestions would be great! Thanks.
1 Answer Scott, To access the control board you will grab the back of the light shield and pull to the back of the unit to remove. Once it is removed look up at the back part of the control panel, there will be 2 slots. Using a flat blade screwdriver going straight in you should hit a tab, push in on the tab and it should allow the control to release and drop down. Do this on both sides and you will have access to the control board. If there is no response from the controls and there is just the [-][-] on the displays then the control board would be the most likely cause for the failure. The control board part number is WPW10503278. Read More...
Pat December 28, 2015 for Model Number MFF2558VEW1 Maytag refrigerator french door, bottom freezer Freezer section is cold well below zero Fridge section stays just a few degrees to warm about 40 degrees or so. Damper seems to be working replaced thermistor in fridge section but still fridge stays around 40 degrees ?
1 Answer Pat, Pull out the crisper drawers and make sure that there is nothing that is blocking the return air ducts in the refrigerator section. If there is nothing blocking it then it could be a control board issue not reading the thermistor properly. Read More...
Ramon November 28, 2015 for Model Number Whirpool Gold Series I just replaced the Electronic Board. I energized the refrigerator again and the numbers of the freezer and refrigerator started flashing, (I think waiting for the code). I pressed the buttons and nothing happens. I think the code is 01, but how do I choose the number? Thanks
1 Answer Hello Ramon, The code for programming the control is on the units' I.D. tag after the model and serial numbers if this is the design that must be programmed. The tech sheet for the unit tells how this is done. For more detailed instructions you would need to please provide your units' model number from the I.D. tag on or near the ceiling of the unit in the refrigerator side. Read More...
Ed November 15, 2015 for Model Number PBF2255HEB Will not cool in either compartment freezer or refrigerator, fan motor runs. I changed out the relay and capacitor already. I did not test the compressor to see if it is grounded out yet. Saw that I need to do that on you tube. But if the compressor is good then I think it must be the electronic board but I could not find an instruction on that. I found out how to change the relay and the compressor, and no one went past those two items if they are not the problem. So is there a test to tell if the board is bad or do I replace it and hope that is what is wrong with it? Thanks
1 Answer Hello Ed, You can use the wiring diagram to determine if it is passing the voltage to the components that are not running. Using the wiring diagram is the only way to determine the issue without simply throwing parts at the appliance. Read More...
Richard November 08, 2015 for Model Number Sears Kenmore 596.69313010 Bottom mount refrigerator only 1 year old. Opening the door, the electronic dual temp control starts "crackling" and the temp numbers flicker on and off very rapidly. The cooling doesn't work.However, by unplugging the refrigerator and plugging it back in, the dual temp control operates normally, the compressor comes on, and cooling is restored. This may last for 1 to 3 hours and then it starts all over again with crackling and numbers flickering. Is replacing the "jazz" board the right way to go? If so, which part #? I can't find a corresponding part # for this Kenmore model. Help please!! I have been told this is really a Whirlpool refrigerator sold under the Sears Kenmore brand.
1 Answer Hello Richard. It sounds like you need to replace the jazz board WPW10503278 on the unit. Read More...
1 Answer Tony, Remove power to the refrigerator, remove anything from the top shelf of the refrigerator shelf and under the control panel box. You may want to remove the interior light cover/lens if you feel it necessary. On the back side of the control box, and along the top where the box meets the ceiling you'll see two slots, one on each side, use a flat blade screwdriver, insert it into the slot and press in on the hidden tab, and pull down on the corner of the box, repeat the same process on the other side. Drop the assembly down enough to disconnect the wire harness from the control board. Carefully unsnap the control board from the mounting tabs inside the housing and remove the board. The replacement board is perforated and you will need to separate the display portion of the board from the printed circuit/relay portion of the board, reverse the procedure restore power and program the new replacement board. Read More...
Rick September 12, 2015 for Model Number W10503278 MY freezer keep's icing up it takes about two weeks for this to happen each time. I know the bi metal is good by testing with ohm meter. the defrost heater checks out. When i run the test through the control board it continues to tell me the bi metal is bad. I replaced it with a new one that i first tested in a glass of ice water and it checked out good. Could this just be a bad control board, or something else?
1 Answer Rick, Yes it could be a faulty WPW10503278 electronic control board, and probably is, based on the information you supplied. If you allow the refrigerator to run and cool for a day or so, You could unplug the refrigerator power cord, access the control board disconnect the J1 harness, from the board and check across wire no.1 and wire no. 5, If the thermostat is cold enough you should read a "closed" circuit on the RX1 setting on your meter. This will confirm the defrost components and wiring are in tact and you'll need the control board. Read More...
Jeremiah August 28, 2015 for Model Number mbl2258xes1 I've been having recurring defrost problems with this model. First the freezer would develop a sheet of water in the bottom. Replaced the duckbill with the p-trap. Recently the evaporator has been completely frosting over. I performed a test of the Jazz board, all tests were sat. I performed a forced defrost of the system. That worked. The seal looks fine on the door. Its just like its not keeping up.
1 Answer Hello Jeremiah. If the defrost worked during test mode, but is not working normally, you will need to replace the jazz board in the unit. Once you replace it, make sure you melt all the ice off the coils before running the unit. Read More...
Mark August 19, 2015 for Model Number JCD2295KEP Is there more than one Refrigerator Temperature Sensor? I only see one in the parts breakdown by the light on the refrigerator side.
1 Answer Hello Mark. Yes, there is one in the freezer and one in the fresh food. 12002355 Read More...
Mark August 19, 2015 for Model Number JCD2295KEP I have been having trouble with the freezer section of the refrigerator mostly. The thermostat fluctuates from -2 to 7 or 8 degrees. I noticed this morning the freezer at 7 degrees, I unplugged the refrigerator and re plugged it in to find the freezer section now says 27 degrees when before it said 7 degrees. It has started to completely defrost on me once, but the unplugging and re plugging in it started to work normally again.
1 Answer Hello Mark. You will need to check and see if the thermistors are good in the unit. If the thermistors are good, then you will need to order and replace the control board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...