Brenton September 23, 2014 for Model Number GS465LEKS0 My oven will only heat up to 350°F. What can I do to get it to heat to a higher temperature?
1 Answer Hello Brenton, You first need to verify that proper voltage is getting to the unit. You will then need to test the temperature sensor WPW10181986 for about 1100 ohms of resistance at about 70°F and be sure to tap on it while testing in case of an intermittent connection inside the component. This is the problem in the majority of cases of this complaint. The remaining cases have a control board 4453607 issue. Read More...
Darren September 04, 2012 for Model Number gr470lxmp Just had oven control board replaced a year ago, repair guy says it went again, oven shuts off when preheating, e4 f1 code. Is this the part I need to replace? Is it easy to do it myself?
1 Answer Darren, part number WP8182472 is the control board needed for the E4 F1 failure code. You will need to remove the control panel and remove wiring to the current board to replace the control. Thanks! Read More...
Jonathan T. November 24, 2011 for Model Number GR460LXLB1 I just tried a new power supply to the first asked question to this part number. The same problem remains. There is no power to stove at all until I turn one of the burner switches to the on position. Then the range control goes through an initial start up giving me the PF (power failure)message. All of the functions from the range control work but there is no heating to the stove top or the oven. As soon as you turn the burner knob off the the whole stove goes dead as well. I have checked coninuity among all the circuits and everything rings out properly. Also the connector between the power supply P2 and the oven control P7 rings out correctly as well. Do you have any suggestions at this point?
1 Answer Hi Johnathon. You seem to have a loose connection. This is the first issue I would tackle. Make sure you have proper 240 vac from the supply at the terminal block. Then you need to check l-1 and l-2 against white neutral for 120 vac. The clock needs 120 vac to properly light up. Then check the p1-1 power supply connection for 120 vac. between p1-4 connection neutral . If all this is solid, then double check the p-2 connector (p.c.b.). All pins need to be matched correctly and the pin connections at the jumper harness need to be checked to see if they (one- by- one) have not backed out slightly and making a partial connection. You can use a pick tool to remove the inner tang and remove the wire connector itself individually. Then pry up on the terminal tang and insert it fully back into the connector so it will make a solid pin connection. You will be able to tell if one is bent needing correction. At p-2 on the pcb board, pin # 5 is a brown wire with a non resettable fuse internally with the wire itself. Make sure there is continuity between these 2 -points as the fuse needs to be closed. This jumper goes to the clock p-7 pin connections. If nothing responds until you touch the clock control, then other than a loose connection, this seems to be the clock itself part # 4453614 Black, White is part # 4453612 The cream color is part # 4453613. You need to check all these possibilities first before ordering the clock. Please let us know how we can assist. you further. Thank You. Read More...
Jonathan November 11, 2011 for Model Number GR460LXLB1 On my Whirlpool Stove I have no power to the display panal when everything is off. That includes no power to the light inside the oven when you open the door. However when you turn a burner knob to the on position it does the initial power up on the display then giving you the power failure message. But it still does not provide any power to the burners. Power is supplied to the light inside the oven as well when you turn a burner know to the on position. I am wondering if it could be a possible meltdown of the transformer or something else on the power supply? Also the non-resetable fuse on the brown wire between the oven control and the power supply looks to be intact with no signs of melting or burn marks on the fuse glass. Thank you for your assistance.
1 Answer Hello Jonathan. Yes, based on the information you provided, it sounds like the pca WP6610333 is bad and will need to be replaced. You can test and see if it is sending power out of it to be sure if you need it. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...