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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Drive Motor by Whirlpool

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By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM9282744
Manufacturer Part Number: 279827

Dryer won't start or stops mid-cycle? A worn drive motor is often the cause. This motor turns the drum and circulates air. Moderate DIY repair.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Drive Motor (Part Number: OEM9282744)

1 Answer

Lou, It is hard to determine exactly where the clicking would be so you will want to remove the front panel and check to see if you can determine where the clicking is coming from. This sounds likely that it could be the motor clicking.

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1 Answer

Mike, based on the information provided, it sounds like the timer WP3977678 is the issue. The timer can be tested by rotating it to a cycle and testing the terminal BU to ground and it should measure 120VAC. If there is not 120VAC, then it is not sending voltage to the motor. The timer can also be tested by removing the power cord from the outlet and testing from terminal T to WR for continuity (should not be continuity until timer is at the end of a cycle) and ther BK to BU (this will indicate if the timer will send voltage to the motor when it is set to a cycle as it should have continuity).

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Tom for Model Number LGR3422AN0

Can you expand upon your response? Both of your responses involve connecting the blue 4M directly to the overload protector, but I have specified that my OP does not have a male terminal for the blue wire, which is my reason for asking the questions--the OP on my 279827 does not match the one shown in any diagram I have seen for this motor. If my overload protector does not have a terminal for the blue wire, where does the blue wire go? Does it connect to the male 4 terminal on the switch? The copper from the switch terminal extends visibly into the OP, which seems to me to replicate the function of the short blue jumper. Thank you! Tom

1 Answer

Tom, If there is not a overload protector tab on the motor then the blue wire will go to the 4M terminal on the motor.

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Tom for Model Number LGR3422AN0

Hello again! Thank you for your response to my previous question. My 279827 motor switch/overload protector assembly does not have a short blue jumper running between the two; there is only one terminal on the OP for a short black wire that runs into the motor. Your response indicates that there should be two terminals, which is also what every 279827 diagram I have seen shows. My thought was that this is a newer OP that does not require the second terminal, or perhaps that the blue 4M from the main harness should be fitted with a 1/8" female terminal to hook into the switch itself--in this assembly, the copper from the male 1/8" 4M terminal in the switch extends visibly into the overload protector. Does this sound appropriate, and if so, why might the 4M now have a 1/8" connection? (apologies if some of my language is not precise, as I am not used to going into individual parts in this much depth!) Thanks again, Tom

1 Answer

Tom, The blue wire will go to the overload protector on the motor. The red will go to the 1M, there will be another red that will go to the 2M, black to the 6M, and the white will go to the 5M.

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Tom for Model Number LGR3422AN0

Hello! I am replacing a 3391887 motor with a 279827 in a Whirlpool LGR3422A. The overload protector on the motor switch of the 279827 contains only one male terminal for a black 1/4" wire. This and two other wires, gray and red, connect the motor to the switch assembly. There is no second terminal for a blue (4M) wire on the overload protector. Does this mean that the blue main harness wire does not connect to this particular motor switch? Is there still overload protection through the black wire or elsewhere? Thanks! Tom

1 Answer

Tom, there should be a blue jumper wire running from the overload to the motor switch. The blue 4m wire will connect on the overload where the blue jumper wire is as the blue jumper wire is removed from both connections.

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1 Answer

Mark, a dryer should be wired in to a 30 amp breaker. Typically on start up it will pull in the mid 20's

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1 Answer

John, You will want to check to make sure that the belt is in place properly and that everything is moving freely. If it checks ok then this may be a faulty motor.

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James Kutch for Model Number LER4634JQ0

Dryer started making a squealing noise then would shut off. Would buzz if u tried to restart it right away. And would start again after it cooled. I bought the maintenance kit with the rollers belt etc and installed it. Still the same. Bought new motor front drum seal kit and bearing ring next. Just installed new motor and it’s making a humming noise while running.(wasn’t doing this before) I have the seal kit and ring to install yet but the ring hasn’t arrived. MY QUESTION IS: Did I do something wrong or is the humming sound because the drum isn’t running straight because the seal and bearing kit are worn?

1 Answer

James, The motor could have a different noise than the original and you will want to make sure that the blower wheel is on securely and that the motor straps are on. Also it may change the noise level installing the felt and glide rings.

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1 Answer

Hello Reythor, I'm sorry but there is no adaptor that we know of that will convert a 60Hz unit to 50Hz. For this reason, since you cannot redesign the machine without major expense, you would need to replace the machine with one designed to run on the power supply available. Thank you for your patience and understanding in this matter.

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Home Repair Bravado for Model Number LG7681XSW3

I got a replacement motor for my dryer, and I've got it all installed but can't figure out where to attach the ground. The old motor had a screw hole and screw on the metal frame that the ground was attached to, and the other end was attached to the metal base of the dryer (another screw). The new motor does not have a hole or any visible place to attach a ground. The diagram supplied shows the ground coming from the main wire array and it attaches to a confusing spot that looks like it's on the motor mount. None of these things exist on mine, so the only ground option I can see is to figure some way to attach to the motor frame and terminate on the dryer frame as it did before. I see bolts on the motor frame that I could potentially find a nut for, and secure the ground to one of those, but that certainly doesn't seem to be their intended purpose (they hold the motor frame together). Have you seen this before?

1 Answer

Home repair bravado, If you remove one of the screws that is on the front of the terminal housing you can screw the ground wire in that location.

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