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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Kit by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM9282741
Manufacturer Part Number: 279816

This dryer thermal cut-off kit is an authentic OEM replacement part for Whirlpool and Kenmore dryers. It is designed to prevent the dryer from overheating.

This Kit Includes:

  • High Limit Thermostat (250°F Limit)
  • A Cut Off Fuse (309°F Limit)
  • Female Spade Terminals
  • Jumper Wires

Over time, these components can fail due to electrical issues, lint buildup blocking the exhaust vent, or normal wear and tear. A malfunctioning thermal cut-off kit can result in overheating, which can pose a safety hazard and affect the dryer’s performance.

Symptoms of a bad Thermal Cut-Off Kit include:

  • Dryer not heating
  • Dryer overheating
  • Dryer shutting off mid-cycle
  • No response when attempting to start the dryer

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Kit (Part Number: OEM9282741)

1 Answer

Sherry, The thermal cutoff would not likely be the issue with the unit but if you test it with a multimeter it should have continuity. With the unit heating when the button is pushed but no drum rotation it would be more likely that the issue is a bad motor.

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1 Answer

Hello Tom. It sounds like the timer is bad. Also, it sounds like the unit is not venting properly. Check the blower wheel on the unit.

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1 Answer

John, The video on our site is for the sole purpose of giving a general idea of how to change the parts but this is not specific for your model. On your unit there will be a thermal fuse and the high limit which the thermal fuse will have a red wire coming from the timer to the fuse and then a wire that will jump from the fuse to the thermostat. From the thermostat there will be another wire that will jump from the thermostat to the heater terminal.

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Steve for Model Number MEDC400VW0

My dryer cut out today, so I went to check it, and it would not come back on. I turned it off, and checked the breaker. The breaker is fine, but I flipped it anyway. I then decided to let it cool down, with the door open, figuring the open door would expedite cooling. I came back about 30-45 minutes later, and it felt as hot as when I first noticed it was not working. I unplugged it, being reminded of former experiences with my old kemnore. No signs of any troubles before today. I haven't plugged it back yet. I wanted to post first, and get some perspective.

1 Answer

Hello Steve, If the heating element is not shorted to ground, (most likely), it sounds like a possible harness issue. While it is normally not probable, it is possible for the contacts in the timer to stick at the same time the centrifugal switch sticks. This would allow a complete circuit through the heating element.

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1 Answer

Steve, There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad .

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1 Answer

Fernando, The most likely cause for the thermal fuse to blow would be a cycling thermostat that is not working properly or a faulty high limit thermostat.

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