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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Kit by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM9282741
Manufacturer Part Number: 279816

Dryer won't heat? This thermal cut-off kit prevents overheating and restores heat. Includes high limit thermostat and fuse. DIY repair in under an hour.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Kit (Part Number: OEM9282741)

Rich R

I have a LEB6300PW0 Whirlpool electric dryer. I have replaced the dryer thermal fuse multiple times now and the dryer just stops. Runs for a couple of months then pops. I pulled the Lint Chute Assembly off and found the Screen Housing Foam Seal and Blower Housing Foam Seal were rotted. I noticed a lot of lint on this inside of the vent where the air comes from the drum into the Lint Chute and in the bottom of the chute there was a big chunk of lint which I clean all out. I bought a new thermal fuse and seals from Appliance parts pros and plan to install today. Is it possible it may require a new Dryer thermal cut-off kit as well to eliminate this problem with the thermal fuse popping? I noticed the dryer is getting very hot when it does run. Should I replace the Dryer Cycling Thermostat as well? Let me know your thoughts.

1 Answer

Rich, You will want to check the venting from the back of the unit to the outside of the home. In most cases this is what would cause the thermal fuse to blow. If the venting to the outside of the home checks ok then the cycling thermostat could be the issue.

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Tom for Model Number maytag performa oversize capacity/heavy duty

My dryer keeps shutting down after about 5/10minutes. Starts drying cloths then shuts down. Baffling part is when it cools works fine, just doesn't run long enough. Took it apart yesterday and vacuumed it all out, everywhere. Didn't want to put back till I feel confident the problem is resolved. Is thermo switch or the other sensor switch(s) a temporary shut down type or when it quits, it's done? thanx for your help/advice

1 Answer

Hello Tom. That would indicate the motor is bad and will need to be replaced in the unit. It is over heating.

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1 Answer

Raleigh, There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad and if there is 120 vac then the heater would be the issue. If there is 120 vac at each point then the heater is faulty.

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1 Answer

Wade, There really is no way to tell which part could be bad without testing the thermostats. It would be likely that the cycling thermostat being the most likely cause.

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1 Answer

Javier,   Tendríamos que tener el número de modelo de su unidad para ser capaz de ayudar con tu pregunta. También si usted podría dar una buena descripción de lo que está pasando con la unidad.

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1 Answer

Hello Sharon. You will need to order and replace the motor 279827 in the unit based on the information you provided.

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1 Answer

Hello Roy, This can be a weak thermostat or a poor electrical connection. I would first check the terminal block where the cord is connected in the rear and the wall outlet. If 240Vac is still provided to the unit, the components would have to be tested with power applied and the failure occurring in order to accurately diagnose the initial cause of the failure.

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1 Answer

Hello Kay, This normally indicates a ducting issue since the thermal cutoff is opened only by high temperatures. This shows that the heat produced by the unit is not being blown out of the unit but blown past the drum seals. The exhaust duct needs to be a full 4 inch diameter with no clogging or crimping and short and straight as possible to the outside of the home.

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