Dave March 15, 2014 for Model Number LER4634EZ2 My dryer has 4 cycles - Auto Dry High Temp, Auto Dry Low Temp, Timed Dry High Temp and Fluff. We normally use Auto Dry Low to prevent shrinking any clothing. Recently, the dryer doesn't seem to want to stop running and the heat doesn't ramp down during that cycle. The timer knob also doesn't move as it did when the cycle ran correctly. Initially, I thought maybe some kind of moisture sensor needed to be replaced. I don't have the money to pay someone to repair it and am quite capable myself. Can you direct me as to what to replace?
1 Answer Dave, Based on the information it sounds like the issue with the unit would be caused by a faulty cycling thermostat WP3387134 not cycling properly. Read More...
Zachary March 08, 2014 I just ordered the thermal cut off kit and it looks like the right part. Problem is the connectors. When I stripped the wire and put on the new connectors, one of them broke off on the side and it doesn't stay connected on the wire. Can you please send me new connectors or at least post a link to buy some extras if it's not expensive? Please help. Thank you, Zachary
Mike T March 02, 2014 for Model Number RED4440VQ1 Dryer has low heat and takes 3-4 times to dry clothes, the vent is clean. I'm sure it's the heating element that needs to be replaced, just want to double check before I spend $50 dollars for the part.
1 Answer Hello Mike. It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly. Read More...
Lonnie February 18, 2014 for Model Number LER8648PW1 Dryer no longer generating heat on any setting what is the most likely cause?
1 Answer Hello Lonnie. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater and thermostats and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter MA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Myra February 14, 2014 for Model Number 1106062110 I changed out the dryer thermal fuse, thermal cut off kit, cycling thermostat and heat element. My dryer is still cold. The dryer does get hot but only for a short while.
1 Answer Myra, make sure the venting to the dryer and on the dryer is clear and make sure you have 240v going to the dryer. Thanks. Read More...
Ed February 14, 2014 for Model Number eed4400wq0 Dryer wont heat. Have replaced the thermal fuse and the heating element. What should I do next? Please help. Thanks.
1 Answer Ed, you'll need to test the thermal cut off and hi limit thermostats in kit part number 279816. The parts should read closed. You'll also need to check the cycling thermostat WP3387134, it should read closed on the outer two terminals and test for ohms on the two smaller inner terminals- should ohm out around 250 ohms. You also need to check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Thanks! Read More...
Danny February 09, 2014 for Model Number MED5740TQ0 Hi....I have just replaced the heating element and now am in the process of replacing the thermal cut off kit (#279816). The video you have shows 2 red wires and 1 orange. My unit only has 2 red wires. One red comes from the cycling sensor and the other is from the main wiring harness and leads under the dryer (not sure what that one goes to). However, my question is which red wire do I connect the jumper wire to. Does the jumper wire connect to the red wire that is part of the main wiring harness and then connect to the thermostat and the other end of the jumper to the element connector? Then would the red wire from the cycling sensor connect to the other connector on the element? If this is correct, I'm guessing nothing connects to the upper connector on the thermostat..is that correct?
1 Answer Hello Danny. Hook the wires up just like the video. Just leave out the orange wire. So the jumper goes from heater to thermostat and then a jumper from thermostat to high limit. Read More...
Chris C February 08, 2014 for Model Number Lec6646awo So my dryer runs hot. The heating element does not turn off. What part/ parts do I replace? I already ordered PS344510. This is the cycling thermostat. Do I need any other parts?
1 Answer Chris, The cycling thermostat should be the only part required. You will want to check the dryer venting to ensure that the venting is clear of obstructions as this could cause the issue that you are experiencing Read More...
Kuch January 26, 2014 for Model Number WED5100VQO Dry run's hot. I have changed Thermostat 3387134 and still doing the same. Have it set on lowest setting.
1 Answer Hello Kuch, If I understand your issue correctly, you will either need to replace the cycling thermostat WP3387134, (bad internal heater inside this thermostat), or the timer WP3979617 has a set of welded contacts. It is also possible that the heating element 279838 has broken and shorted to ground. Read More...
Michael S January 16, 2014 for Model Number 11068632700 I have checked for continuity on the heating element, checked the thermal fuse, high limit and cycling thermostat and they all seem fine but the dryer still produces no heat. Any ideas?
1 Answer Hello Michael. See if you loosing voltage from the motor or timer. Also, check and see if there is 240 volts coming to the unit and it is not set to air fluff. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...