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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Kit by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM9282741
Manufacturer Part Number: 279816

This dryer thermal cut-off kit is an authentic OEM replacement part for Whirlpool and Kenmore dryers. It is designed to prevent the dryer from overheating.

This Kit Includes:

  • High Limit Thermostat (250°F Limit)
  • A Cut Off Fuse (309°F Limit)
  • Female Spade Terminals
  • Jumper Wires

Over time, these components can fail due to electrical issues, lint buildup blocking the exhaust vent, or normal wear and tear. A malfunctioning thermal cut-off kit can result in overheating, which can pose a safety hazard and affect the dryer’s performance.

Symptoms of a bad Thermal Cut-Off Kit include:

  • Dryer not heating
  • Dryer overheating
  • Dryer shutting off mid-cycle
  • No response when attempting to start the dryer

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Kit (Part Number: OEM9282741)

1 Answer

Bill, You will want to check the venting of the unit from the duct assembly all the way to the outside of the home. This will be the most likely cause. Also check to make sure that there is no issue with the rollers binding causing the motor to overheat.

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1 Answer

William, The thermal fuse controls the power to the heater, if it were open, the dryer would run with no heat. The thermal fuse on the blower housing controls power to the motor, it is a "one shot" thermal fuse, if it opens, the motor wont start or run, it does not reset, it has to be replaced. You may want to disconnect the dryer exhaust vent from the dryer and run it for 10 minutes to see if it will run longer than the time it usually takes to shut down. If the problem persists, you'll want to check the voltage at the outlet, check the connections on the terminal block, where the power cord is attached, then check the timer circuit (BK to BU) to see if the contacts in the timer have failed, and stops sending the power to the thermal fuse and motor.

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1 Answer

Shep, We would need to have the model number to assist properly but sounds likely that the issue may be that the vent is clogged.

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1 Answer

Hello Steve, If proper voltage, (240Vac), is supplied to the dryer and there are no loose connections at the terminal block or wall outlet, the timer WP3979618 will need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Steve, You will want to check the temperature switch on the unit to make sure that it is good but if it checks ok then the cycling thermostat would most likely be the issue with the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Gary. Some models had the orange wire and some did not. If you don't have one, then you skip that step. Thank you.

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Vincent for Model Number Whirlpool LER4634EQ2

Hey guys, my dryer suddenly stopped heating the other day. It still blows and spins, but will not heat up at all. I've checked the following parts (recommended by various troubleshooting sites) with a multimeter for continuity: Thermal Cutoff (reading of 0.0), Dryer Heating Element (reading of 0.0), Cycling Thermostat (outer terminals read 0.0, smaller inner terminals for low-heat cycle read 7.0), Dryer Thermal fuse (reading of 0.0), High Limit thermostat (reading of 0.0). I'm not sure what else to check at this point. I have visually confirmed that the heating element is not heating up. any help would be greatly appreciated.

1 Answer

Vincent, There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad .

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1 Answer

Marvin, With the unit shutting down completely then you will want to check to see if the rollers are possibly seizing up and check for there to be something caught in the blower wheel.

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