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Customer Questions and Answers for Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit by Whirlpool

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By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM12036225
Manufacturer Part Number: 12400035

The Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit is an OEM part for Whirlpool ovens. It is designed to ignite the gas in the oven burner, facilitating the start of the heating process. This igniter is crucial for ensuring your oven heats up quickly and efficiently, providing the necessary flame for cooking and baking.

Symptoms of a bad Oven Igniter include:

  • The oven failing to heat up or taking a long time to reach the desired temperature.
  • A noticeable gas smell when the oven is turned on, indicating the gas is not igniting.
  • The igniter glowing without producing a flame, which can point to a lack of adequate temperature to ignite the gas.

Causes of a bad oven igniter can include the wear and breakdown of the igniter element over time, a faulty electrical connection, or a disruption in the gas supply.

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit (Part Number: OEM12036225)

1 Answer

Daver, The most likely cause of gas smell with the oven in the off position would be a bad safety valve. You will want to check to see if the igniter is getting power to it. There should be 120 vac coming to the terminals of the igniter. If there is not 120 vac then you will need to check to make sure that there is 120 vac from black to chassis ground. If there is then you are loosing your neutral and will need to check to see were you are loosing power.

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1 Answer

Hello Stan, The ignitor you were looking at (AP4012072) is the correct one. It does come with a connector on it. If the connector doesn't fit your model, you may have to cut it off and use the ceramic wire nuts. If you need to, there is a video to watch below the part that shows the ignitors' installation.

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1 Answer

Joe, It does sound like you probably have a weak oven igniter. You could check to see that the igniter draws 3.2 to 3.6 amps, when glowing with a "clamp on" ammeter. The correct part number for the igniter is WP7432P036-60 based on the model number you supplied. The 12400035 will also work in your range, it is a "universal" igniter and can be modified as needed to fit and work in most ranges.

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1 Answer

Ken, Make sure all the venturi openings around the top of the burner are clean, remove the burner(twist it 90 degrees counterclockwise, and lift it out of the cook top) and check the orifice to see if it's clogged with grease or debris. Is the ignition spark a bright blue or white in color and does it spark in one spot consistently or is the spark erratic and striking in various locations. Can the burner be lit with a match, and does it appear and adjust ( high, medium ,low) properly.

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Pat for Model Number MGR5870adw

To try an improve our gas oven heating I bought your part #AP4012072 (12400035) , a flat style oven igniter kit for $30.97 on 2/24(order #3181830), and installed tonight 2/26. Unfortunately oven still seems to pre-heat slowly sometimes, sometimes with a gas smell. The old igniter had an ohm reading of 147 vs. new's 257 but it wasn't an open loop/broken. The oven sensor had an omh reading of 1079 or 1.079 so it wasn't open either. How long should it take to pre-heat to 350 - ours can take 20 mins? Is there another issue? Oven valve? Seems to be only 1 valve breaking gas line IN to top burners and oven - burners work fine. Pilot? Like before new igniter, oven sometimes heats up quick and other times not. Previously too it sometimes took forever to cool down - even clicking (on?) after we shut it off. Control panel - how can I take a reading on control panel? Thx

1 Answer

Pat, To take a reading on the control board you would be looking for voltage. The proper voltage is getting to the control board if the power is working and the oven is coming on and cycling. There should be 120 vac to the board. You could also check your oven sensor which should have an ohm reading of 1090 ohms at room temp. If it is outside the range of 10 percent then it is faulty. The clock would be the most likely cause with it being as erratic of sometimes quick and sometimes slow along with gas firing when the oven is off.

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Kingman for Model Number Maytag MGR5745ADA

Helping a friend fix her oven. Doesn't heat reliably. She smelled gas. I saw ignitor glow, but it had a hot spot in middle and rest of ignitor glowed only orange. Gas took from 2 to over 4 minutes to come on. When gas came on, burner lit with strong flame then after seconds went to low flame. I assume ignitor is bad and this is confirmed by your forum answers. I have a MSEE degree and have a couple of questions if you'd indulge me for my curiosity (the more technical the answer the better!). I'd like to understand exactly how this system works.: 1) Does the current through the ignitor open the gas valve? 2) Does the gas valve automatically have a high/low sequence when energized or does the current through ignitor control the size of the flame? Thanks!!

1 Answer

Hello Kingman. Yes, currect opens the valve and based on the infor you provided, you have a weak igniter and it needs to be replaced.

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Leonard T for Model Number 31003SAW

I replaced and ignitor on my Magic chef gas stove part # AP4012072. The ignitor works and turns on, then the the flame turns on. The ignitor does not turn off at that point. I was told it was supposed to turn off once the oven burner is on. When the correct temp. is reached in the oven both the ignitor and the burner flame turns off. When I raise the temp they both come back on. My question is: Isn't the ignitor supposed to turn off once the oven burner comes on. Why does the ignitor not turn off once the oven burner is on?

1 Answer

Hello Leonard. No, based on the information you provided, the oven is working properly.

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Remposs for Model Number 9122VUV

My oven suddenly quit working. From what I've read, it's most likely the ignitor. I have pulled the ignitor out and the Molex connector on the cable is a blob of melted plastic. I had to cut the ignitor wires to remove it. Is the melted plug a possible cause of the ignitor not working? Can I check this before I replace the ignitor? If it is the ignitor after all, can I cut the melted end off the supply wires as well as the new ignitor and just use small wire nuts? Does polarity matter? Thanks!

1 Answer

Hello Remposs. Yes, just cut the melted connector off and hard wire the igniter into the unit. Use small ceramic wire nuts for the job. There is no polarity involved here.

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