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Customer Questions and Answers for Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit by Whirlpool

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By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM12036225
Manufacturer Part Number: 12400035

The Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit is an OEM part for Whirlpool ovens. It is designed to ignite the gas in the oven burner, facilitating the start of the heating process. This igniter is crucial for ensuring your oven heats up quickly and efficiently, providing the necessary flame for cooking and baking.

Symptoms of a bad Oven Igniter include:

  • The oven failing to heat up or taking a long time to reach the desired temperature.
  • A noticeable gas smell when the oven is turned on, indicating the gas is not igniting.
  • The igniter glowing without producing a flame, which can point to a lack of adequate temperature to ignite the gas.

Causes of a bad oven igniter can include the wear and breakdown of the igniter element over time, a faulty electrical connection, or a disruption in the gas supply.

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit (Part Number: OEM12036225)

1 Answer

Hello Samiya. The igniter has to have two wires. However, it could have a braided cover over the 2 wires. You need to see if the cover needs to be cut off to expose the 2 wires.

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1 Answer

John, Yes, the 12400035 Igniter kit will work in the ARG7301WW range. It's a very "flexible" igniter kit and will have most if not all parts needed to install and operate properly.

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1 Answer

Hello Marty. Either there is a wiring issue or the igniter in the oven needs to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Lavonnia, If there is no trouble with the top burners then you will want to check to make sure that the air shutter is in place and make sure that the burner is sitting properly on the orifice. If there is also an issue with the top burners then the regulator would most likely be the cause of the issue.

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Paul for Model Number 9475VRV

The oven Bake/Broil gas valve is not delivering gas to the Bake burner, however it does deliver gas to the Broiler burner. (Both igniters lighting up individually when select by the control panel selector switch.) My trouble shooting has consisted of: 1. Checking continuity of the gas valve coils. (Good) 2. Checking the voltage on each coil upon demand: (Bake, 4.2 vac: Broil, 5.57 vac), (I do not have access to a clamp-on amp meter.) 3. Checking the resistance of each igniter: (Bake, 279 ohms, Broiler, 104 ohms, a new igniter, never installed, 311 ohms) Since the oven is out of the wall cabinet it is not near a gas source, I attempted to blow air through the system using an adapter fitting with a plastic hose, at the input of the gas regulator to no avail. I have no idea how much pressure is required to operate the gas regulator valve. I definitely want to rule out the Bake/Broiler gas valve if there is nothing wrong with it as it is $200+/+/+. Your assistance will be greatly appreciated. Paul

1 Answer

Paul, The pressure that is required to open the regulator is 3-5 Water column inches for Natural gas and 9-11 WCI for LP. It appears that the ignitors are good and most likely would be a bad safety valve.

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1 Answer

Joe, At the control board you will want to check voltage to the igniters. You turn the oven to bake and check from Bake to N, this can also be done for the broil when set for broil from Broil to N. If there is not 120 vac present then the control board is faulty. If there is 120 vac then you will wanto to check the igniter to see if faulty. From a cold start, the ignitor needs 30–60 seconds, with a minimum of 116 volts applied, to reduce its electrical resistance enough to provide a minimum of 2.9 amps of current flow in the series circuit.This is the required current flow needed for the safety valve to open and supply gas to the burner. The glowbar should provide a steady current flow of between 3.4 to 3.6 amps in the circuit. At that point the igniter temperature is between 1800 to 2500 degrees F. The igniter will remain energized at all times during burner operation. If the igniter glows red but does not draw at least 2.9 amps, the fault is usually with the ignitor, not the valve.

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1 Answer

Hello John. Turn on the left and see if the right side sparks. If so, the switches WP7403P287-60 are bad and will need to be replaced. If not, you will need to replace the spark module 12001596 on the unit.

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1 Answer

David, The way that the wires are connected do not make a difference. You just plug it up and attach in position.

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1 Answer

Big Kev, A new oven igniter should be producing the 3.2 to 3.6 amps required to open the safety valve, but you may want to recheck the amps with a clamp on ammeter. Check for loose wire connections, check and make sure all the openings in the oven burner are clean and free of debris or clogs, and the igniter is properly aligned to the burner ignition openings on the side of the burner.

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