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Customer Questions and Answers for Thermal Fuse by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM21675663
Manufacturer Part Number: W11707984

This is a thermal safety fuse that opens the circuit if temperatures rise beyond a safe limit, protecting the appliance from overheating and preventing further damage. Replacing a failed fuse restores power to the affected circuit once the underlying cause is addressed.

  • Monitors temperature in a protected circuit and cuts power if unsafe heat is detected
  • Helps prevent overheating-related damage
  • Typical failure signs: no power/no operation, cycle won't start, shuts off mid-cycle after overheating event
  • Must not be bypassed; replace if open and investigate the root cause of overheating
What's included: 1 thermal fuse Installation notes:
  • Unplug appliance or disconnect power before service
  • Verify the fuse is open with a multimeter; replace only after correcting any airflow/overheating issues
  • Install in the same orientation and location as the original to ensure proper temperature sensing
  • Handle wiring carefully; transfer connectors one at a time to avoid miswiring

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Thermal Fuse (Part Number: OEM21675663)

1 Answer

Hello Alex. You most likely have a "high voltage" side malfunction. Transformer, diode, magnetron, Capacitor. You will need to be extremely careful if you decide to test the components with a multi meter, Very high residual voltage is present, so make sure you remove power to the microwave and short across the terminals on the capacitor. The magnetron should have a reading of less than 1 ohm resistance across the two terminals, and an "open" circuit between each terminal and chassis ground. The diode/rectifier should have a resistance reading in one direction only, no resistance, or resistance in both directions indicate a faulty diode. The primary winding on the transformer should read approximately 450 Ohms resistance, the secondary winding should read 80 ohms resistance, and the filament transformer should read 100 ohms resistance. All of these are +- 10%. If all the readings are proper and in range, replace the magnetron.

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1 Answer

Roger, You will want to check the fuse to make sure that it has continuity. If there is no continuity the you will need to replace the fuse. Also check the door switches to make sure that they are good.

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1 Answer

Hello Dan. You most likely have a "high voltage" side malfunction. Transformer, diode, magnetron, Capacitor. You will need to be extremely careful if you decide to test the components with a multi meter, Very high residual voltage is present, so make sure you remove power to the microwave and short across the terminals on the capacitor. The magnetron should have a reading of less than 1 ohm resistance across the two terminals, and an "open" circuit between each terminal and chassis ground. The diode/rectifier should have a resistance reading in one direction only, no resistance, or resistance in both directions indicate a faulty diode. The primary winding on the trans former should read approximately 450 Ohms resistance, the secondary winding should read 80 ohms resistance, and the filament transformer should read 100 ohms resistance. If all the readings are proper and in range, replace the magnetron.

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1 Answer

Christie, The fuse is located behind where the control panel is. You will want to remove the air grill and then remove the single screw where the control is and lift the control panel off this will give access to the fuse to be able to remove and replace it.

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1 Answer

Wendell, To access the thermal fuse you will need to unplug the unit and take the air grill and control panel off. The fuse should be visible at this point. It may be on just a clip or on a control board that you can pop the fuse out and install a new one. If the fuse blew then it is likely that there is another part failure. The most common would be a faulty door switch causing the fuse to blow.

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1 Answer

Larry, Based on the description of the problem, yes the switch if it is not clicking and springing back up then the switch is bad but you will also want to test the ceramic fuse to make sure that the fuse has not blown. Test for continuity and if there is not continuity then the fuse is bad.

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1 Answer

Hello Waterdogdad, This can be a bad light socket 8206374, a harness issue W10107710, or a bad control board 8206619. I'm sorry but the "lamp housing" or socket, has been discontinued by the manufacturer and no satisfactory substitutions have been provided.

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1 Answer

Hello Barb. You most likely have a "high voltage" side malfunction. Transformer, diode, magnetron, Capacitor. You will need to be extremely careful if you decide to test the components with a multi meter, Very high residual voltage is present, so make sure you remove power to the microwave and short across the terminals on the capacitor. The magnetron should have a reading of less than 1 ohm resistance across the two terminals, and an "open" circuit between each terminal and chassis ground. The diode/rectifier should have a resistance reading in one direction only, no resistance, or resistance in both directions indicate a faulty diode. The primary winding on the trans former should read approximately 450 Ohms resistance, the secondary winding should read 80 ohms resistance, and the filament transformer should read 100 ohms resistance. If all the readings are proper and in range, replace the magnetron.

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1 Answer

Hello Speedy. You most likely have a "high voltage" side malfunction. Transformer, diode, magnetron, Capacitor. You will need to be extremely careful if you decide to test the components with a multi meter, Very high residual voltage is present, so make sure you remove power to the microwave and short across the terminals on the capacitor. The magnetron should have a reading of less than 1 ohm resistance across the two terminals, and an "open" circuit between each terminal and chassis ground. The diode/rectifier should have a resistance reading in one direction only, no resistance, or resistance in both directions indicate a faulty diode. The primary winding on the trans former should read approximately 450 Ohms resistance, the secondary winding should read 80 ohms resistance, and the filament transformer should read 100 ohms resistance. If all the readings are proper and in range, replace the magnetron.

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