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Customer Questions and Answers for Defrost Heater (Evaporator) by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18022041
Manufacturer Part Number: WP2323197

This defrost heater warms the evaporator during automatic defrost to melt built-up frost so air can move freely and temperatures stay consistent. Replace a failed heater to restore normal cooling and end recurring frost on the freezer panel.

  • Melts ice from the evaporator coil during the defrost cycle
  • Prevents frost buildup that restricts airflow and causes warm spots
  • Helps maintain stable refrigerator and freezer temperatures
  • Typical failure signs: heavy frost on the back wall, reduced cooling, fan noise from ice contact, frequent manual defrosting
Includes: 1 defrost heater
  • Disconnect power before servicing; wear cut-resistant gloves
  • Access through the freezer compartment; remove shelves/ice bin and rear panel to reach the evaporator
  • Match wire connections and route leads exactly as original; keep wiring clear of the fan and sharp edges
  • After reassembly, restore power and monitor a defrost cycle; if frost quickly returns, also evaluate the defrost thermostat and control

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Defrost Heater (Evaporator) (Part Number: OEM18022041)

1 Answer

Hello Brad. There is no dispenser heater in this model. You will need to check for a frozen water tank or a bad water filter on the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Paul. There is no heater for the drain pan. You will need to make a copper probe and hang it from the heater into the hole for the water to drain. Then when the heater comes on, it will transfer and melt any ice build up in the hole.

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1 Answer

Hello Ramona. If the heater is good, and the thermostat is new, you will need to replace the control board in the unit.

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Matt for Model Number ED2FHEXTL00

My fridge is not self defrosting and the water replace filter light is blinking yellow. I have replaced the bi-metal already and that did not help. Although after I defrosted it, the light stayed green for 10 minutes or so before it started blinking again. What I am wondering is if the heater needs to be replaced next or the defrost control. I have read about checking the resistance on the heater, but does that need to be done at room temp or when the heater is cold?

1 Answer

Matt, You will need to replace the defrost control. The light flashing is an indication that there is a problem with the control board WPW10366605.

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1 Answer

Rob, The easiest way to test this type defrost heater is a resistance reading, with the wires disconnected. Using a multimeter across the the terminals there should be a resistance of 21 to 27 ohms resistance. You can also check for 120 VAC from each termianl of the heater to chassis ground, with the control in a test mode or defrost cycle,and the defrost thermostat cold and a "closed" circuit. This will sldo confirm a faulty control board or thermostat. Also after the refrigerator has been in a defrost cycle for 5 to 7 minutes, you'd be able the "feel" the heat from the heater on the back of your hand.

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1 Answer

Hello Rose. You will need to remove the back wall and expose the evaporator coils. Then pull the bottom of the evaporator out of the back wall just enough to remove the heater. BE CAREFUL and do not break the lines of the evaporator. Then you will thread the new heater WP2323197 into the evaporator.

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1 Answer

Hello Gary, The recommendation is for the refrigerator to be on a 15 or 20 amp breaker. The manufacturer doesn't mention a GFI because the GFI was designed for outlets near a water source so if you drop a hair dryer or a blender in a sink it will protect you from electric shock. The GFI will normally kill more than one receptacle when it trips, so you can never use a coffee maker or similar item if the refrigerator might kick on the compressor or go into defrost. The refrigerators' installation instructions recommend a breaker that is 15 or 20 amps. This means that your GFI is too small to handle the load. I would eliminate the GFI from the circuit that is running the refrigerator as it is not even designed for that purpose.

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1 Answer

Hello Jack. You will need to test the heater and the bi-metal WPW10225581. They should read closed for continuity. Also look for broken wires and see if they are shorting out to ground. You can unplug the heater and bi-metal and turn the timer. If it kicks with them unplugged, then the timer W10822278 is bad. You can test this with a multi-meter MA-DM1. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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