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Customer Questions and Answers for Defrost Heater Assembly by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18030324
Manufacturer Part Number: WP61006199

The Defrost Heater Assembly is an OEM replacement part for Whirlpool refrigerators. Located behind the freezer walls, it prevents ice buildup during automatic defrost cycles. Consistent performance is needed to maintain ideal temperatures. The defrost thermostat is included in the assembly.

Causes of a bad defrost heater assembly can include overheating from being covered in frost, corrosion from moist environments, or broken filaments due to vibration.

Symptoms include: 

  • Ice accumulating on freezer walls instead of melting away
  • Refrigerator failing to properly defrost 
  • Fault codes displayed related to defrost functions

Compatible with KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, and other brands, it ensures prolonged efficiency.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Defrost Heater Assembly (Part Number: OEM18030324)

1 Answer

Norm, Thanks for the question!!! Based on the frequency of the ticking it would possibly be the icemaker D7824706Q gears failing. See if you can pinpoint the approximate location of the noise, I bet it will likely be in the icemaker area. The second possibility would be low and behind the fridge. If that is the case it could be the start relay/overload 12002784. As for the leak, It could be a clogged defrost drain (look for ice forming on the floor of the freezer) or possibly a cracked drain pan 61004095 (identified by water coming from under the fridge. The drain pan is no longer, so you could seal any cracks with a high temp solution WPY055980.

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1 Answer

Edward, Your unit has a defrost timer that can be manually advanced to the defrost cycle.

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John for Model Number Maytag MZD2768GEB

My freezer was not defrosting and refrigerator side was warm. The evaporator fan had stopped working and so I replaced it with a new one and that now works fine. I have replaced the defrost heater and thermostat, though the old one tested good. I replaced the defrost control board as well. My problem still persists, however, with frost buildup around the evaporator, so the defrost heater is apparently not coming on. It takes only about 48 hours for the frost to build up enough to begin blocking the air to the refrigerator side. Is there any other component in this model to the defrost system? Is there any way to test the defrost control board to make sure I did not receive a defective one? Is there any way to force defrost mode in this model? One thing I noticed today is that on the right side of the freezer wall next to the lower part of the evaporator coil, there is a small hole in the side of the freezer wall, about one inch square. This refrigerator sat for a long time in disuse with it running with the ice buildup and that may have occurred during that period. I thought about taking a small piece of aluminum and riveting it in place over that hole. There is no indication of any damage to the coil itself. I don't see though how that would impact the defrost cycle. Thanks, John

1 Answer

Hello John, based on the parts replaced and the continuing symptom, this indicates a sealed system problem, likely a low freon charge as from a leak or a worn/faulty compressor. If the freezer cannot reach a low enough temperature the defrost thermostat can not close to allow the defrost heater to come on in the next scheduled defrost cycle.

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1 Answer

Ken, The defrost cycle is controlled through the main control board W11035839 / W10738538 Control, Electronic inside the compressor compartment. Inputs from the light switches, temp. sensors, etc. determines when or how often the refrigerator needs to defrost. First check to make sure the refrigerator doors are closing and sealing properly, the refrigerator is level, there aren't too many open containers or articles hanging over the shelves or against the walls.

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1 Answer

If you are having defrost problems, you need to check the bi-metal defrost thermostat and when it is cold, it should be closed, If it is open, it will never close the circuit to allow the heater to come on.

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1 Answer

Hello Earl. To remove the defrost heater, you will first need to remove the shelves and the rear cover in the freezer compartment. Once removed you will need to defrost the coils around the heater and remove the 2 screws at each heater bracket and remove the heaters. Install new heater and reassemble.

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1 Answer

Hello Jon, It is testing properly if it shows no resistance when cold and open when warmer, (50°F and warmer). When it opens, it is opening the circuit to the defrost heater so it cannot thaw out the frozen foods in the freezer compartment. As a note, the defrost circuit cannot thaw out all of the ice built up during a long duration with no defrost cycle. This ice has to be removed with a hair dryer or steamer. The defrost heater can only melt away the amount of ice built up between normal defrost cycles. You should test the defrost cycle by forcing a defrost cycle before opening the unit. This way, by the time you get into the evaporator coils where the heater is, it will be hot and you can verify the heater is coming on. As soon as you verify it is operating properly, unplug the unit and clear the ice build-up.

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1 Answer

Sorry Michael. They do not offer one for these as they are designed to be used indoors. Thank you.

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1 Answer

Oriel, You can check the defrost limiter to see if it has continuity. If it does not have continuity then you would not need to change it out. You will also want to check the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance values should be as follows, 42.5K at 0 degrees, 14.4k at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If not within range then it would need to be replaced. If it checks good then also check the defrost heater for continuity. If no continuity then replace and if good with continuity and all other components check ok then you would need a new main control board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Eddie, If it were a defrost problem, there would be frost or ice higher up the freezer back wall. It sounds more like a clogged defrost drain opening or tube. You'll need to remove the freezer back wall and remove the ice from the drip pan, and check and clear the opening and tube.

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