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Customer Questions and Answers for Kit, Hood & Valve by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM12028884
Manufacturer Part Number: 12002604

Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Kit, Hood & Valve (Part Number: OEM12028884)

1 Answer

Walter, You will need to check to see if there is 120 vac getting to the igniter and if there is then check the oven safety valve for 3.0 to 3.6 vac and if there is proper power then the valve is faulty and if not then the igniter will be the issue.

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1 Answer

Craig, You will want to check to see if the valve is still getting power to it with the oven control turned off. If there is 3.2 to 3.6 vac to it then this would be a relay on the control board that is stuck and causing this issue. If there is not power going to the valve then the valve would need to be replaced.

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Wunji for Model Number MGR5755QDB

Broil works, but Bake does not. There was a small fire in the bottom back of the unit, so I repaired the wires - still no ignition. Checking voltage, I get 120v on both leads on the molex connector for the broil ignitor when the circuit is on. When I check the voltage on the bake ignitor, I get 120v on the one lead when I touch my other lead to ground, but when I have my leads in the molex connector, I don't get 120v. So, the bake ignitor is missing the neutral. Does the neutral come from the solenoid on the regulator assembly? Also, I moved the neutral from the broil solenoid and attached it to the bake solenoid, and it dropped for the broil - if that makes sense. I didn't connect the bake lead the broil solenoid because it is a smaller connector, and I didn't want to take the time to cut wire and install a flag terminal. Any help would be appreciated, and I would like to buy the right part that you have on your site. Much thanks, Wunji

Wesley for Model Number KGRS205TBL2

First - great professional answers on here and best price I have found on this part. The oven burner will not light. With the floor of the oven removed, the ignitor can be seen burning bright red, but the valve does not open to allow the gas in. Service man has made multiple calls under warranty and replaced ignitor twice but I am pretty sure nothing was wrong with the previous ones. They were never able to fix it. However, the oven lights flawlessly when one of the eyes on the stove is burning. It will stay lit even after you turn off the stove burner, but will not relight after reaching the temperature and cycling unless the stove burner remains on. Gave up on service calls and simply left an eye on the stove burning on low when using the oven. Obviously, this is not the safest way to operate an oven. I assume that the drop of pressure by turning on the stove top is somehow allowing a possibly weak bake burner solenoid/valve to open which might not otherwise have been able to open under more pressure. When the valve is open for the stove top, or when the oven burner is allowed to light, there is a buzzing sound that comes from the regulator/valve area. I will check to make sure that there is proper voltage/ohms to the ignitor and valves per the excellent instructions you have previously given here. Assuming this checks out, I would guess either the valve or regulator is bad. I know there are no guarantees, but do you think that I have a good chance of replacing whatever is wrong by simply purchasing this assembly?

1 Answer

Hello Wesley, This does sound like a weak oven valve or possibly a faulty regulator 12002604. I would feel confident that this assembly would correct the issue.

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1 Answer

Hello Brian, Several things can cause this to include the gas pressure to the unit, the ignitor WP7432P136-60, the safety valve 12002604, and the relays on the control WP74009217. These need to be tested to insure the correct part is replaced.

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1 Answer

Hi. Verify the ignitor still ohms out to 50-400 ohms cold. A new ignitor can have a hairline crack in the middle. It is very rare because the manufacturers have worked hard to triple wrap the ignitor for this shipping issue. You need 120 vac to the ignitor. Measure the Safety Valve part # 12002604 for 3.2-3.5 ac volts. If it is there and the ignition takes longer then 30-45 seconds then replace the Safety Valve. If the voltage is lower then replace the ignitor part # 74007498. Make sure all connection's are clean and tight. Adjust the air shutter on the burner is closed all the way to the stop screw. Do not close the shutter but insure the shutter adjustment loop end is opened fully under the stop screw. Make sure the safety valve manual shut off lever is turned off and back on all the way. Thank You.

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1 Answer

Hello Kevin, You may want to check the igniter before the valve. The igniter 74007498 has to reach a certain temperature to turn open the gas valve. I would first ohm out the igniter. The ohm reading should be between 50-400 ohms at 75 degrees. Amp draw should be between 3.2 and 3.6 amps when turned on and the voltage should be 120 vac. If you are not getting at least 3.2 amps or do not fall in the correct ohm range then replace igniter.

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