Customer Questions and Answers for Kit, Hood & Valve by Whirlpool

Hello John, The most likely cause is the temperature probe 12001655. The reasoning behind this diagnosis is the fact that the control will lock the door if it see a high temperature in the bake compartment for safety reasons. If the temperature probe is out of tolerance and sending the incorrect information to the control, it will lock the door so no one gets burned. The second suspect is the control WP74009227 itself. The door lock mechanism isn't a consideration because it is able to lock and un-lock the door.

Danny, It's most likely a weak igniter on the bake burner 74007498. The igniter has to glow "white" hot, it may glow orange or red, but it has to produce 3.2 to 3.6 amps on the system to open the valve and ignite the burner. That's the more likely issue and not the valve assembly. Thanks

Gina, Do you know if your gas supply is Natural gas or LP gas ? Either way, you need to have the gas supply pressure to the stove tested "under a load". If the oven burner "poofs" or is slow to heat when the stove top burners aren't used, then you want to check for a weak burner igniter WP7432P136-60 Thanks

Bob, Yes, it could be part of the issue, the bi metal swirtch inside the valve could be damaged, but you need to determine why theres only 104 VAC to the igniter. That power is supplied from the ERC/ Clock WP74009217. You'll need to isolate the clock and igniter at recheck the voltage out of the clock and into the igniter with the oven valve out of the circuit. Good Luck and Thanks

Ray, Have you checked the burner flame, color and size ?, an all blue flame, no yellow or white tips and 3/4 to 1 long ? Are the top burner flames proper ? It sounds like you may have a weak igniter or a loose connection in the wiring. You should get a "clamp on ammeter" or multimeter to check the amp draw of the ignition system (3.2 to 3.6 amps) or 3.2 to 3.6 VAC at the safety valve terminals from the glow bar, to verify the igniter operation. If that all checks OK, then go at the safety valve. this may help you out, [http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html] Thanks and Good Luck

Hi Harvey. We may have the parts availible should you provide us with the exact model # for your unit. We are a global, parts retailer that can beat or price match parts needed. On our "Repair Forum" you can register a repair question and we will answer any repair questions that you may have. Thank you.

Hello Don. You will need to test and see if there is 3.4-3.8 volts AC at the safety valves. If not, you will need to replace the weak igniters WP7432P136-60 74007498. If the correct voltage is there, you will need to replace the valve assembly 12002604. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps.http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Glenn. You will need to test and see if there is power coming to the igniter. If not, you will need to test and see if the control board WP74009227 is sending the power to the igniter. If not, you will need to replace the control board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps.http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Jeremy, you will want to make sure the igniter is lighting up a bright red almost white. If the igniter is not pulling from 3.2-3.6amps the gas valve will not open. Here is the part number for the bake igniter WP7432P136-60 and for broil use 74007498. Thanks!