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Customer Questions and Answers for Latch, Door by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18050433
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10195934

The Door Latch is an OEM replacement part for Whirlpool ranges. It is the mechanism that securely holds the range door shut during cooking operations.

Causes for a bad door latch can include wear and tear of moving parts over time exposing them to high heat, improper cleaning allowing residue to build up and corrode components, or physical damage like bending from excessive force on the door.

Symptoms of a door latch issue include:

  • Inability to fully close the range door
  • Sagging or loose door that does not feel secure during baking and broiling
  • Door that will not safely stay shut on its own

This is a genuine Whirlpool OEM replacement this part is also compatible with Maytag, Jenn-Air and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Latch, Door (Part Number: OEM18050433)

1 Answer

Hello Erik. You will need to use an ice pick and reach into the grill and hold the latch back as you open the door to get the model number. Then we can look up the error code for you. Thanks.

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1 Answer

Hello Penny, As per the manufacturer, this is the correct substitution. The solenoid on the old one has been replaced with a motor to prevent premature failure since the solenoid cannot withstand the temperatures that the motor can. The wires to the switches can be just carried over and since the switches are not polarized, the wires on them can be crossed with no negative results. The motor and the solenoid are polarized, so when the wires are transferred from the solenoid to the motor, pay strict attention to positive (+) and negative (-). This circuit is 18Vdc so if not wired in the correct polarity, it will not work.

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Andy for Model Number KitchenAid electric range KESS907

We had a recent power outage. When the power came back on, the oven light will not turn off. If I try to start a cleaning cycle, it will not start the cycle and the panel says "close door". So it seems to "think" the door isn't closed even when it is. This makes me think I need to replace the door latch. How do I access it? Also- when I turn the oven on, I hear the fan going and the heating element gets a little warm, but it doesn't get past the "preheating" stage. I assume it's not getting hot because it thinks the door's open, or is this a different problem? The cooktop works fine. Is there a chance that the house circuit breaker is bad and not sending enough current,or is that an "all or nothing" thing? Could the latch have gone bad due to the power going out and returning, or is it a coincidence?

1 Answer

Hello Andy, I would check the door switch WPW10195934 first to make sure that it has not failed. Also check your control board WPW10181438 to ensure that you are getting proper voltage to elements. You may be loosing one side of your line feed if you are only getting partial warming. Your elements should get 240vac to fully energize.

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1 Answer

Wayne, It sounds like you may not need anything, other than a screwdriver. Try this : Press in on the black "plastic" actuator lever. Take the blade of the screwdriver and press against the chrome metal door latch hook. You'll need to press against the lever the complete cycle, have a helper program a self clean cycle, wait 60 seconds then cancel the cycle ansd allow the latch to cycle back to the unlocked position.If the issue remains, then replace the latch assembly WPW10195934 and check the wiring to the switches. Thanks and Good Luck

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1 Answer

Hello Bill. It sounds like you may have the switches wired wrong on the lock motor. You will need to check and make sure the switches on the door latch WPW10195934 are wired correctly.

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1 Answer

Hello Bill, I have you an answer with a lot of additional information that will help you greatly. I just need to get it to you. The listed e-mail address refused delivery.

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Alan for Model Number Model. KGSS907SSS02

Had a small fire on my gas oven when broiling a dish and the latch switch got melted. I'll have to change the latch switch part but wonder IF that broken switch is preventing my oven to work. The convenction oven works but just up to 150F and the bake cycle keeps showing LOW.I put a piece of round plastic on the broken switch/latch so the light went off and that did it. Could it be that something else is broken or damaged on my gas oven? Please advise so I can order other parts if necessary due that this KGSS907SSS02 range is outside the US.

Alan for Model Number KGSS907SSS02

I haven't changed the latch, but today I tried to use my gas oven without any luck at all. The latch became broken last week when my wife was broiling a cheese and rice dish and she forgot about it and the casserole catch fire, melting the plastic switch on the latch. What else could be damaged on that small fire incident? Or is the broken latch switch preventing the oven to work? The convection part is working but the heating properties are not. What should I check and how? The gas stove is working perfect. Thanks

1 Answer

Hi Alan. Are there any fault codes ? Directly beside the door latch assy. part # WPW10195934 is a electronic control board part # WP9762774. On the wiring diagram there it is called an Appliance Manager. You mention the bake and the convection circuits and gas works, leaving that the broil circuit is out of operation. Before repairing the latch assy, make sure any wires are not exposed or shorted to chassis ground. Inspect all carefully. See if you have 120 vac supplied to the T4-4 input at the board. Then when you command for broil, do you have 120 vac out from the K2 HALO RELAY at the T3-4, orange wire going to the Halo 1200 watt part # W10207402. If not make sure that you have not lost any wire connections in between. WPL - DIRECT - SPARK - IGNITION : Now you need to run the DCV checks from the DSI module. On J1 pin1 red wire, you should read 8 to 18 VDC in the bake mode, and J1 pin3 blue wire, should have the same VDC, in the broil mode and J1 pin 2 orange is the common lead for both tests. At the gas valve assembly WPW10293048 check the resistance from the center terminal to each outside terminal you should have a resistance of 215 ohms on each test. Also check for the same VDC from the module. The broil igniter part # WP8054129. Thank You.

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1 Answer

Hello Alan, The most important part of this job is to turn off the power to the unit. You can either unplug it or turn off the breaker. If you turn off the breaker, you need to verify that the power is off at the unit to prevent electrical shock or death. Next, I would remove the control panel. You will have to remove the knobs and the screws on either side of the valve stems. There are normally three or four screws under the control panel that can be accessed by opening the door and looking straight up under the control panel. Sometimes there are one or two screws on each end of the control panel, (depending on the model). Once the screws are out, you can reach through and access the four screws that mount the door lock assembly. I always remove the screws so the component can be moved around, then remove the wires one at a time and place them on the new component as I take them off the old component. This keeps me from having to find a wiring diagram for wiring the new one. Once these steps are completed, you should be ready to reassemble the control panel back to the unit. Please let us know if we can assist you further.

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