Customer Questions and Answers for Latch, Door by Whirlpool

Hello. WPW10195934 is the correct latch assembly for the unit. It does look different, but according to the manufacture, should work properly in the unit.

Hello Tanya. You will need to reach inside oven door with a pick tool and release the locking latch holding the door closed. Then test the thermal fuse on the back of the unit and see if it is bad. If so, you will need to replace the part. If it is good, you will need to test for power at the control board. If there is power there, and the display does not work, replace the display WP9762810 on the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Koelling, I was sending you a service manual but the delivery failed permanently. Please provide a valid e-mail address if you want the service manual.

Hello Maggie, Electronics have two "number one" enemies: Heat and Moisture. In this particular case we are talking about the heat. Be aware that a self-cleaning oven produces from 900°F to 1100°F. These temperatures are hot enough to effectively "self destruct" an electronic component. Any experienced technician who is truly concerned about unit performance for the customer and not just profitability, will advise the customer to use the self-clean option as little as possible. Each time you expose the units' components to this much heat, the sooner the failure will occur. Also, as an after thought, the door latch should never be forced, as it is a somewhat delicate component, especially when hot. You see, the heat actually helps to change the temper of the steel and will bend more easily when hot. Never force the door lock assembly to try to open the door.

Maggie, Your best and safest bet, is to replace the latch motor assembly again. We really don't reccomend you operate your range with wires taped together on a permanent basis. But you're on the right track. The door light switch/position switch, would keep the oven from heating and cause the lights to remain on, if there was a fault in the switch or wiring. Good Luck and Thanks

Tran, What is in the control panel display ? Our guess is you may have an "open" thermal fuse WP9759243, on the back of the oven. If the fuse is open, the power to the elements is distrupted and there will be no heat in the oven. The S/C door latch, would display an error code if there was an issue there. Good Luck and Thanks

Hello Suresh. Test and make sure 240 volts is coming to the oven assembly. If so, you will need to replace the electronic control WPW10438710 based on the information you provided. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hi Suresh. Are you are positive that the latch switch that is operated by the motor has the Blue and the Tan wires. And the door switch (on the latch assy.) has to have the Tan (with the orange) and the brown wire attached to it. If all of this is correct and you double check it with the wiring harness that was with the unit in the controls or under the top. This way the latch itself should "cycle" correctly as you enter and exit self clean mode. Does it cycle correctly? If so then the issue is either with a bad bake element part # WPW10207397,It should ohm out to approx. 11-18 ohms, not open or 0- ohms. Or if it bringing up a F-3 code the oven sensor is defective. It should ohm out to approx. 1,100 ohms cold. This cycles the control relays to keep the oven at proper temperatures. Is the oven giving any fault codes? If you are not getting 120 vac to one side of the bake element when the bake relay closes on the board you have a bad relay and will need to replace the control board. Part # WPW10438710. There is always 120 vac at one side of the element waiting for the relay to give the other half of the supply voltage. (240vac). Double check the house supply that there is not a loose connection at the terminal block or a tripped - half of a breaker only allowing 120 vac to the unit. At the terminal block you should get 240 vac between the 2- outer outer terminal studs. Then you need 120 vac from each side to the middle (neutral) with tight connections. Let us know if we can assist further. Thank You.

Suresh, These are the basic instructions, Here you go :" CAUTION: When you work on the double oven, be careful when handling the sheet metal parts. Sharp edges may be present, and you can cut yourself if you are not careful. 1. Disconnect the electrical power to the double oven.To remove the lower oven door latch assembly: a) Open the lower oven door b) Remove the two screws from the lower air vent and remove the vent. c) Remove the 3 lower air duct cover screws. d) Raise the lower air duct cover and remove the two screws from the lower oven door latch assembly. e) Remove the lower oven door latch assembly and disconnect the wires from the two switches and the solenoid terminals." Thanks and Good Luck

Murray, Yes, it could be a self clean door klatch assembly, The light switch, door position switch, and latch switch are all part of the latch assembly. Of course, it could also be damaged wires between the latch switches and the control board. Good Luck and Thanks