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Customer Questions and Answers for Surface Element Repair Kit (Connector) by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM12139701
Manufacturer Part Number: 37001139

This element repair kit restores a safe, solid electrical connection to an electric range/cooktop surface burner, helping the element heat consistently and reducing arcing after the original connector has overheated or loosened.

  • Repairs a damaged or heat-weakened surface element connection
  • Helps resolve a burner that won't heat or heats intermittently
  • Addresses visible scorching, melting, or arcing at the element plug-in
  • Supports a snug, reliable fit for the element prongs
What's included: One element repair kit. Install notes:
  • Disconnect power at the breaker or unplug before servicing; allow the cooking surface to cool completely
  • Match connector orientation and move one wire at a time to avoid miswiring
  • Inspect wire insulation and element terminals; replace any parts with burnt, pitted, or loose contacts
  • Ensure the element seats firmly after repair and verify proper operation before regular use

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$189.49
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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Surface Element Repair Kit (Connector) (Part Number: OEM12139701)

1 Answer

Bob, You would want to clean the moisture sensor bars with rubbing alcohol and see if that does not correct the issue with the auto dry. If this does not correct then check the wiring of the sensor bars to make sure there is no damage. If the wiring checks ok then the moisture sensor board WP33001212 would be the most likely issue.

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1 Answer

Hello Rosemary. You will need to remove the front panel of the dryer. The element and thermostats are under the drum on the left side.

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1 Answer

Bruce, It could be an expansion rattle, from the heater or the heater duct, and check to make sure there aren't any kinks or clogs in the venting or vent hood. Then check the blower wheel 56000, make sure it is fitting tightly on the motor shaft.

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Billie for Model Number maytag mdl# MDE7600AYW

we have been running this machine using the timed dry setting for extended periods of time (min 1 hr on reg dry setting, the hottest available). We've been running 4 or 6 loads consecutively each day for the last week. I went to dry another load and now the dryer isn't heating. I've checked the lint trap and have disconnected the vent to verify that a blockage isn't the problem. All venting is clear, no blockage from lint present. Is it possible to have burned out the heating element on this old dryer? Are there any high limit or thermal cutout controls or internal breakers that may have tripped to prevent overheating?

1 Answer

Hello Billie. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater and thermostats and see if they are good. You will need to check the blower wheel on the unit and see if it is clogged on the unit. If so, it prevents air movement. You can test these with a multi-meter MA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Hello Derrick. If the dryer is heating, but taking a long time to dry the clothes, It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly.

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