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Customer Questions and Answers for Oven Sensor Assembly by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18049359
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10181986

The Oven Sensor Assembly is an OEM part for Whirlpool ovens, designed to accurately measure the oven's internal temperature and communicate it to the control board. This ensures that the oven maintains the desired temperature setting during baking or roasting, providing consistent cooking results.  

Causes of a bad Oven Sensor Assembly can include exposure to high temperatures for prolonged periods, affecting the sensor's accuracy, electrical malfunctions like short circuits or wiring issues impacting its performance, and physical damage from cleaning or moving the oven compromising the sensor's integrity.

Symptoms of a bad Oven Sensor Assembly include:

  • The oven does not heat to the set temperature 
  • Over or undercooking of food 
  • Error codes displayed on the oven's control panel 

This OEM Whirlpool part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Oven Sensor Assembly (Part Number: OEM18049359)

1 Answer

Hello Pete. If the sensor is reading open, you will need to order and replace the sensor for the unit.

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Josh for Model Number RF263LXTB3

My oven is not heating up at all. The cook top and computer seem to be functioning fine. There are no error codes displayed on the screen. I tested the elements and the thermal fuse. All work fine. Pulled out the oven sensor and my reading on that is that its bad. But it's difficult to get the multimeter prongs into the plastic connector on the sensor so I'm not sure if I'm getting an accurate reading. Would a bad sensor cause the oven to not heat on bake or broil? Thanks!

1 Answer

Hello Josh, The ohm reading on the oven sensor should be approximately 1100 at room temperature. You would also check to see if you are getting power from clock assembly to tell broil and bake to come on. Check L1 to bake and L1 to broil. Across each of these you should have 240 vac. It there is not 240vac then you have a bad clock W10840298. Test this with bake or broil on.

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Stephanie for Model Number SF315PEPQ2

I have a Whirpool Stove model number SF315PEPQ2. The stove works fine, however, the oven does not work at all. I can set the temp and a certin degree and it will act like its heating up (does the countdown, etc) but never heats up. I was told it could be the ignitor or control board. I do not see a glow or anything from the ignitor. I hate to have to buy another control board b/c they are so expensive, so I am trying to narrow down what exactly the problem may be. If the control board was bad, wouldnt the clock, etc be out? I have unplugged it and plugged it back up and the oven worked, briefly. Any help would be great! Thank you! Stephanie

1 Answer

Hello Francis, The oven sensorWPW10181986 Should read at 1100 ohms at room temperature. Check the thermal fuse by removing the leads and checking continuity across the terminals. It should read as closed circuit. If the thermal fuseWP3196548 reads open then it needs to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Hello J., The fault code F-2 E-1 signifies that the control board doesn't see the touchpad connected. The list says to reconnect the touchpad.

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Wayne for Model Number SF362LXSS

Since I purchased my oven new 5 years ago, I have had a problem where occasionally I would hear the gas valve open and the ignitor click, but no flame -OR- it would start on it's own (or with a match) and run till it got hot then stop running. It seemed like it happened faster as you set the oven temp higher. It also appears to happen both baking and broiling. Recently, it has become an every time headache. I changed the bake ignitor two days ago and since then I have seen no issue with the oven lighting, but it shutting down once fully warm has continued. Thanks in advance for your help!

1 Answer

Hi. Ohm the oven sensor part # WPW10181986 to make sure it ohm between 1060-1100 ohms. More then 10% tolerance then you need to replace it. It sends the oven control the temperature readings so the preset command will allow the bake and broil relays to send heat and stop (open) the heat. Thank You

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1 Answer

Hello Bob, If the ignitor is only getting red, it is probably the issue. When the ignitor draws the 3.2 to 3.6 amps of current required to open the safety valve, it will turn orange or almost white hot. There will also be a light area or spot on the grey ceramic ignitor material. The best way to test the ignitor is with a clamp on ampmeter W10918546. The factory says you can test for resistance, but since heat increases resistance and the ignitor gets so hot, the cold resistance test is not reliable. Since you have replaced the ignitor, the safety valve WP98014893 is suspect.

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