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Customer Questions and Answers for Hi-Limit Safety Switch (High-Limit Thermostat) by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18033915
Manufacturer Part Number: WP7403P899-60

A hi-limit safety switch that stops heating when temperatures get too high, protecting the appliance from overheating and helping prevent damage. Designed to replace a failed thermal cutoff to restore safe temperature control. What it does:

  • Opens the heating circuit when internal temperature exceeds the safe limit to prevent overheating
  • Commonly replaces a failed or intermittently opening thermal limit control
  • Helps stop burners or heating elements from running unchecked when a thermostat fails
  • Addresses symptoms like no heat, intermittent heating, or safety trip shutdowns
What's included: One hi-limit safety switch Install notes:
  • Disconnect power before accessing heating components and wiring
  • Verify the part matches the appliance diagram and wiring orientation before installation
  • If corrosion or other damage is present on connectors or terminals, replace or repair per OEM guidance

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Hi-Limit Safety Switch (High-Limit Thermostat) (Part Number: OEM18033915)

Bill for Model Number Jenn Air built-in wall oven (don't have exact model #)

So over the past 6 years I have replace the high limit switch (part # 74009837) probably 5 times. It would often fail after a self-cleaning cycle so we stopping doing that much at all. I didn't used to mind because it was a $13 part. Now the same part costs over $50. So now I am trying to figure out what might be causing this part to keep failing. The fan seems to be blowing hot air out from under the stove so I think it is venting OK. What else could it be? Thanks

1 Answer

Hello Bill. It is common for these to fail after a self clean cycle. Usually, it is due to the tight spaces and the heat holds inside the cabinet and blows the safety thermostat.

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1 Answer

Hello George. Test the temp probe and see if ti read 1100 ohms at room temp and 1650 ohms at 350°. If not replace the probe. If it test good, replace the control on the unit.

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1 Answer

Elwood, This is a bi directional high limit thermostat so it does not matter which wire connects to either side.

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1 Answer

Hello Kevin, This sounds like you will need to change the temperature sensor 12001656 and the ERC. This is of course a preliminary diagnosis based on the initial fault codes. No parts should ever be ordered until all electrical connections have been dis-connected and reconnected one at a time. Of course the reason for this is the fact that many failures are caused by poor electrical connections. The fault codes are listed by the manufacturer as follows: F3--Open oven temperature sensor. Replace oven temperature sensor. F5--Supervisory relay enable open(cook mode). Replace electronic range control(ERC). The clock is the part with the display 71002331.

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1 Answer

Hello David. No, to access the thermostat WP7403P899-60, you will need to go through the top of the unit. Remove the grill pans and the 4 screws that mount each pan to the main top. Remove 2 1/4" hex screws and replace the thermostat.

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1 Answer

Hus, You most likely have a stuck fan motor relay on the auxillary relay board 12001690A (71002144). Since you have no cooking issues or other control complaints. The circuit for the cooling fan is a bit elaborate but , the oven temp. sensor sends a resistance reading to the ERC/control, when the temp. reaches a certain degree or the same resistance is there for an extended period of time, the control sends a circuit to the relay board, the relay closes and the cooling fan runs. When the oven temp. cools down and the resistance is in the normal range, the relay opens and the fan shuts off. The aux. relay board has been discontinued by the manufacturer, you may have to shop around to find the part. Thanks and Good Luck

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1 Answer

Diane, Since the unit will program and actually start, you most likely have a weak or loose wire, or a faulty relay board assembly WPY04100260 The board assembly could be on the left side wall behind the lower access panel, or on the back of the range in the lower right hand corner. Thanks and Good Luck

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1 Answer

Les, We understand your concerns. The buzzing noise, is probably the solenoid Y702526 trying to activate, but can't because something in the linkage is bent or damaged. You won't be able to tell until you dismantle the unit and access the latch assembly. Thanks and Good Luck

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