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Customer Questions and Answers for Thermal Cut-Off Kit by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM9282681
Manufacturer Part Number: 279769

The Thermal Cut-Off Kit is an OEM part for Whirlpool dryers. This safety kit is designed to protect the dryer from overheating by interrupting the heat source when the dryer air temperature reaches dangerously high levels. The kit typically includes one high-limit thermostat and one thermal cut-off fuse. These components are critical for preventing potential fire hazards by ensuring that the dryer operates within safe temperature ranges.

Symptoms of a failing thermal cut-off kit include:

  • Dryer not heating up at all, as the thermal fuse may have been triggered
  • Excessive heat in the dryer, prior to the fuse being triggered
  • Frequent stopping of the dryer during cycles

Causes of thermal cut-off failure often involve restricted airflow (from lint buildup or obstructed vents), component failure within the heating system, or issues with the dryer cycling thermostat that cause abnormal heating.

This OEM part is also compatible with Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Roper, and other brands manufactured by Whirlpool.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Thermal Cut-Off Kit (Part Number: OEM9282681)

1 Answer

Airgolf, For this issue you will want to make sure that the venting is clean from the blower housing to the outside of the home which will be the most likely cause on this issue.

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1 Answer

Hello David, You should check the air flow out of the back of the unit. If it blows really hard as it is supposed to you should check the exhaust ducting to outside atmosphere. If clogged, restricted, or excessively long, this is causing too much heat to be trapped inside the dryer cabinet and causing the parts to fail. Correcting the dryer duct so it is short and straight as possible and a full 4-inch diameter will not only correct this issue, but will also allow the clothes to dry faster making the dryer last longer, saving time doing laundry, and lowering the electric bill.

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1 Answer

Steve, This thermal cutoff kit does not show that it comes with the jumper wire. You would want to get a piece of high temp wire and high temp connectors to make a new jumper.

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1 Answer

Hello Rob. No, it was the broke belt switch shutting the unit down when the belt broke. You will need to replace the belt on the unit.

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Al for Model Number GEW9868KL2

I blew 2 thermal cut off on heater housing sofar. After 1st 1 blew Ii cleaned out dryer of all lint. replaced thermal cut off a 2nd time. Ran a few cycles, then blew again. What am I doing wrong? does it matter if thermal is in front or behind hi limit fuse on housing? or do I have to replace another element in dryer? I saw on another question, someone wrote that you said to make sure heat element is not touching housing. could that be problem? thanks

1 Answer

Al, Yes a weak or shorted heater element could cause the element to remain partially energized and produce more heat and "blow" the thermal fuse, so you may want to remove the assembly and check for arc marks on the inside of the housing and mounting plate. As long as you installed both the hi limit and the thermal cut off in the same position as the originals, you wont have a problem there. you also want to check the remainder of the exhaust venting and vent hood, to make sure there are no clogs or restrictions and check and clean out the blower housing and blower wheel to make sure you have the proper air flow into and out of the machine.

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1 Answer

Don, There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad .

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1 Answer

Kevin, All of the thermostats should have continuity and if they do not then this will be a faulty part and need to be replaced.

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Pilotmike5 for Model Number WGD5300SQ0

My dryer stopped heating. I opened her up and found a blown thermal fuse. I cleaned the vents and replaced the fuse along with the cycling thermostat. I plugged it back in and it was heating again...great I fixed it, made grandma happy! Oops, not so fast Mr. Maytag Man in training...it continued to run when I opened the door. Within 10 minutes after turning the knob and playing around with the unit....the circuit breaker blew. I put the old thermal fuse back, reset the circuit breaker and it shut off when the door was opened but again the original problem of no heat. What should I do! Grandma can't be left with cold wet socks!

1 Answer

Pilotmike5, You will want to look for a heating element that is shorting to the housing of the heater.

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Julie for Model Number REX6646AWO

I need to replace a connector, and cannot find one ANYWHERE. Female quick disconnect high temp 5/16 wide, for 6-8 gauge wire. It plugs onto the male heating element connector on my Roper dryer. Yes, I saw the kit that comes with this connecotr on a wire with a wire nut for replacing it, but I just want the connector, especially since I cannot confirm the size of the connector in the kit. If they make a kit, (and it's the right size) where do they get the connector? Grainger, McMaster-Carr, Waytek, PartsSelect, Mouser, Graybar, Johnstonesupply, Platt,Eoff, Truevalue,Crimpsupply, Frys, and Home Depot do not have these.

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