Richard November 27, 2022 for Model Number 11082826101 Re: testing of hi limit thermostat and thermal cutoff dryer not heating measured at terminals, each item tested with no wires connected heating element measures 10.4 ohms thermal fuse has continuity thermal cutoff has continuity high limit thermostat is open (should this have continuity?) What next to try?
1 Answer Kiki, If the thermal fuse blows then it does not reset and would need to be replaced. Read More...
Casey January 19, 2022 for Model Number GEW9250PW1 In the How to Replace Thermal Cut Off Kit video, the part with the red/white coloring, the initial install showed the red coloring on the top; in the replacement of the new part, the red coloring is on the bottom. Does this matter or is the most important part to get the wires attached to the top/bottom appropriately? Also, if putting a new Heat Element Assembly in, is it normal to smell something hot as the coils begin to heat up?
1 Answer Casey, the wire placement on the thermal cut-off is not necessarily important as the cut-off is a switch with only one path. In regards to the element, new elements tend to have a slight odor the first time or two as they heat up any dust that may have accumulated. Read More...
Sadie March 04, 2021 for Model Number MEDB850YW0 My dryer has recently stopped heating. The thermal parts are very hard to reach from the back. Do you think I need to replace the thermal cut off( kit) AND the fuse, or just the kit? How do I know they are bad by looking at them? Thank you for your help.
1 Answer Sadie, The only way to tell whether the hi-limit and thermal cutoff are bad would be to test them. You can test them for continuity and the best way to get to them will be to go in through the front of the unit. Read More...
Richard Spooner November 10, 2020 for Model Number Kenmore HE3 Dryer I have replaced the Thermal Fuse over five times and the darn thing keeps blowing on me. (8318314) 352F I have cleaned out the entire vent system to the outside of the house and the same fuse keeps blowing. Do you know of any other product that will keep this dryer working or should I just get a new unit?
1 Answer Richard, We will need to have the model number of the dryer to be able to assist with your question. Please resubmit your question with the model number. Read More...
Gary March 29, 2020 for Model Number 110.61082000 I purchased a thermal cutoff kit (279973) but did not come with list of possible causes for the failure of the cutoff. Is that listed somewhere on your site
1 Answer Gary, a cutoff can fail due to age, a failed cycling thermostat, a grounded out element, and lint build up in the dryer cabin. Read More...
Jim February 09, 2020 for Model Number Kemore 110.86572500 Electric Dryer The dryer stopped providing heat so I pulled the heat element that had a crack in the metal plate (not the coil) but still had continuity across the connectors. I then pulled the high-limit thermostat which had continuity. I then pulled the thermal fuse which did not have continuity. I replaced all three and the dryer worked for approximately three cycles. One week after I replaced the parts and on the first cycle this past weekend the dryer stopped as it had blown a breaker. I reset the breaker and the dryer came back with a PF code which I understand is a power failure code. After I turned the dryer on I hit the start button and the dryer started and immediately blew the breaker. I reset the breaker and hit the start button again and there was a load bang and the breaker tripped again. I took off the kick panel on the front of the dryer and observed that the thermal fuse had blown apart with the connectors hanging with the wires. I have order the Thermal Cut-off Kit (part number #279973 (AP3094323)) but I am afraid that if I install the new parts I will blow the fuse again. Any suggestions on what could be causing the issue?
1 Answer Hello Jim, likely the heating element WP8544771 is causing the problem and is likely shorted to ground, unless there is a wire in that area that has grounded. Read More...
Roland January 29, 2020 for Model Number WED7500GC0 Dryer on Normal starts at 45 then 44 then 43 minutes then drops down to 2 minutes then 1 minute then turns off however works on timed dry. I have changed out thermistor, moister sensors and dryer harness sensor and still turns off ?
1 Answer Roland, based on the information provided, the main control W11124284 is either not receiving the feedback from the sensors (wires will need to be inspected for any breaks) or is not registering the feedback properly. If the wires from the main control to the sensors are not broken, the main control would need to be replaced. Read More...
Earl July 02, 2019 for Model Number MEDB850WQ0 This is a follow-up to the overheating problem with Maytag Bravos Dryer Model Number MEDB850WQ0. I followed your advice, and found that the heater relay was definitely a closed circuit (continuity). Thank you! That should be my problem. In reading the Tech Sheet for my unit, on page 5, "Heat will not shut off" section, it says to measure the resistance between P4-3 and P4-6 at the connector. Just as a check, I did this and could get no continuity across these two leads, therefore, no resistance measurement. I know the Exhaust Thermistor is good since I replaced it and checked it for continuity. Please explain. I was hoping that my problem of overheating is with the heater relay. The dryer is in very good shape, and the wiring harness looks fine, and not pinched anywhere. Thanks again! It should read as an open circuit, if closed then replace the main control board.
1 Answer Earl, The reading from P4-3 to P4-6 should read 10k ohms if not the circuit is open, possibly a bad thermistor and/or a loose connection or an open wire. Read More...
Earl July 01, 2019 for Model Number MEDB850WQ0 I have a Maytag Bravos electric dryer, Model MEDB850WQ0. It began to get too hot in the lower temperature modes, then overheated and would not run. The Power button worked, but the dryer would not start even when pushing the Start button. Using your website and the Tech Sheet, I found that the Thermal Fuse, Exhaust Thermistor, and the Thermal Cut-off had no continuity. The heater element is in in good shape, and not shorted against the duct. I therefore ordered and replaced the following components: Thermal Fuse, Exhaust Thermistor, Thermal Cut-off, and Inlet Thermistor. My exhaust duct is clean, and air flow is very good. When I turned the dryer on to test it, it was blowing very hot air in the Air Fluff cycle, when no heat should be on at all. Can you please provide any additional troubleshooting help? Thanks!
1 Answer Hello Earl, since you have already checked the heater element and it is not grounded then check the heater relay on the main control board. Unplug dryer from the electrical outlet or turn off the dryer's circuit breaker and locate the heater relay on the main control board, it has black and red wires going to it, disconnect the wires and using a multimeter test for continuity. It should read as an open circuit, if closed then replace the main control board. Read More...