Dan R Woodruff , SC November 30, 2018 Appliance: Whirlpool Electric Dryer WED9400SW0 No heat First ran the built-in diagnostic tests. Got error code indicating that the inlet thermistor was open. Removed lower access panel and did continuity checks on the inlet thermistor, thermal cutoff and heating element. Even doing these checks is very difficult on this model due to the location of these parts and the limited access through the so-called access panel. But was able to get an open reading on the heating element, so I knew that at least that part was faulty. Could not get a reliable reading on the thermistor or the thermal cutoff due to their location. After reviewing the video for replacing the heating element, it was pretty clear I was going to have to pretty much completely disassemble the dryer to get to the heating element, so I ordered the heating element and the thermal cutoff kit (includes the inlet thermistor and the thermal cutoff), just in case they were bad and had caused the heating element to fail. The video supplied by Appliance Parts Pros was very helpful, although there were a couple of steps that didn't quite match my model. The most difficult part of this repair for my model was figuring out how to get the front panel/bulkhead assembly removed so I could get to the heater assembly. Once I got that apart and had the drum removed, replacement of the heating element and the thermal cutoff components was trivial. As at least one other reviewer noted, the most difficult part of the reassembly for a single person is reinstalling the drum - you might want to enlist a second person to support the weight of the drum while you position the front bulkhead, which has the rollers that the drum must rest on, underneath the front edge of the drum. I did it myself, but it is not easy. This repair takes a bit of time and, although I have to confess to uttering more than one cuss word due to the idiotic design choices on this model, one of the benefits of having to remove everything to get to the heating element was that I was able to give the inside of the dryer a good thorough cleaning. This was the original heating element in this dryer and it had lasted 11 years. A lot of lint and dog hair had accumulated inside the dryer in those 11 years. By the way, don't put too much faith in the error codes you get from the built-in diagnostics - turns out that once I could get clear access to the thermistor and thermal cutoff to run continuity checks, they tested good. But I replaced them anyway and set the originals aside as spares. Read More... 71 People found this story helpful Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: 2+ hours Tools: Nut Drivers, Pliers, Screwdrivers, Socket Set
Emily A Graham , WA June 09, 2025 Dryer stopped heating i tested the fuse heat regulator and heating elements and determined it was the heating element I'm a small somewhat handy older woman and didn't have any issues with this as a repair project. It's an older electric dryer, Kenmore Elite Oasis, so finding a video of the same model was challenging, but there are a couple out there - one was the most useful. Using a putty knife to pop the two clips at the front (you slide the putty knife in at the corner and push until the clips release), I lifted the top of the dryer (everything is accessed through the top, not from the back). It was necessary to remove the drum, which took removing about six bolts from the front panels. There is a bolt down at the lint trap that has to be removed to get the second of the two inner panels off. The parts are a lot lighter than I remember the old dryer drum we rolled down the hill as child was and I'm not a lot bigger than I was then. There are a couple wires to unplug, then I used a meter to test the fuse and heat regulator (at least I'm pretty sure that's what they were...they tested good so I didn't bother researching), then I was able to remove the metal shield for the heating element which is held in by four bolts. (That did test bad with the meter.) Those were a little awkward to get to. Then removed the heating element, put the new one in and put it back together. The hardest part was getting the drum belt in place. Including video watching, vacuuming copious amounts of dirt and lint out of the machine (it's amazing how much dirt DOESN'T come out in the wash) and searching through the dirt and lint for the clip I vacuumed up, it was about a 45 minute project. The part got here about 5 days faster than predicted which made us back in business quickly and the dryer works great again! 10/10 recommend taking this on instead of spending hundreds on a new dryer. Read More... 1 People found this story helpful Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: 30-60 minutes Tools: Pliers, Socket Set
John R Delphi , IN January 02, 2015 Took to long to dry After reading the reviews of others, I ordered and replaced the heating element, thermostat, cut-off & the moisture sensor bars. It was a success! The element was definitely bad on one end, the wire was burnt in two pieces. Now it doesn't take 3 hours to dry a load! Well worth the money I spent. Easy to fix & do it yourself. I watched the video before buying the parts just to make sure that it was something I wanted to tackle. Very easy with the video. Great job Appliance Pro's! Read More... 129 People found this story helpful Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: 30-60 minutes Tools: Screwdrivers, Socket Set
Mike C Lawrenceburg , IN May 11, 2015 Appliance: Maytag Electric Dryer MEDB850YW0 My maytag bravos xl dryer would not dry properly it would run but with very little heat cycles were twice as long as previous to get clothes dry I replaced the "heating element" which was bad.........as well as the "Thermst-fix" and "Thermal Cutoff" which are located on the side of the element mounting location while I had the dyer all opened up and the element mounting tube removed.......I also replaced the Dryer Thermister which is located on the top of the blower fan.....To get to these parts, you must open the top of the dryer which has spring latches on both sides of the front corners... they need to be pressed in (use a putty knife or kitchen knife) to press in and then the top will raise on it's back hinges.....you then must get the entire front panel removed before you can get to the bottom of the dryer where these are located...after the top is raised on its back hinges, take a screw out on each side of the top panel and then raise the front panel straight up to remove it from it's bottom brackets....You will also have to remove the Dryer Lint screen housing Bottom center ( 4 screws) to get to the fan blower housing Read More... 102 People found this story helpful Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: 1-2 hours Tools: Nut Drivers, Screwdrivers, Socket Set
Christopher S Greybull , WY July 19, 2014 Would not heat Pulled the element and found it burnt in two. Replaced the element worked for 5 minutes then stopped heating. Both thermistors were bad which probably caused the failure to start with. Had to order those the next day. Works like a champ again. When replacing element replace the thermostats. Also realized why you need to keep inside clean since the blower actually pulls air into and across the element into the drum. The correct parts are so easy to find on their website. Type in the model number and there they are. Also repaired my front loader from this site before. No need to call an expensive repairman. Read More... 46 People found this story helpful Do-It-Yourself Rating: Repair Time Estimate: 30-60 minutes Tools: Nut Drivers, Screwdrivers