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Customer Questions and Answers for Thermal Cut Off Kit by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM9282978
Manufacturer Part Number: 279973

The Thermal Cut-Off Kit is an OEM replacement part for Whirlpool dryers, responsible for protecting the dryer from overheating by interrupting the power flow to the heating element if the dryer air temperature reaches a dangerously high level.  

Symptoms of a bad Thermal Cut-Off Kit include:

  • The dryer not heating up 
  • Excessive heat buildup within the dryer drum 
  • Clothes not drying properly  

Causes of failure can include restricted airflow from a clogged lint filter or venting system or a malfunctioning heating element causing excessive temperatures. These issues can lead to the thermal cut-off being triggered to prevent overheating, necessitating the replacement of the kit.

This OEM Whirlpool part can also be used on Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore/Sears brand appliances.

Note: It's possible some models may use part number 280148 in place of this. Look at photo's for verification.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Thermal Cut Off Kit (Part Number: OEM9282978)

1 Answer

Hello Nancy, This will be an issue with one of the thermostats, either the cycling thermostat WP3387134 or the high limit thermostat WP3977767. If the thermal cutoff opens it will not close again without the part being changed so it will not be the problem.

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Neil for Model Number WED8300SWO

I watched your video on replacing the thermal cut off, etc. I had to replace the heating element. I was careful to make a diagram of the wiring before I disconnected the unit; however, somehow the diagram was tossed in the trash as I awaited the delivery of the part. I did remember that the two components behind the heating element hook up both had the black wires on top. In your video the black wire to that component was on bottom. Is this a problem? The only other thing I am concerned about is the red striped wire and the solid red wire that went to the heating element, since I did not remember which was on top. There was also the red wire that went to the bottom of the last component on the heating element casing, but that connector was too small for the front, so I concluded it was for the back. Before I turn on the electricity and try this out, I want to make sure I don't fry my dryer of burn down my house! Does the red striped wire always go on bottom of the heating element connections? I contacted whirlpool and all I got from them was that I have to contact one of their appliance repair people. There has to be some kind of schematic or help somewhere so I do not have to pay $75 just to have someone stop by and tell me if the striped wire is ok on top. Can you help?

1 Answer

Neil, the position of the red wire and the red and white wire will not make a difference on the element. In the case of wiring, as long as none of the safety thermostats are bypassed you are good.

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Alex for Model Number WED9150WW1

I have a Whirlpool Duet Dryer (electric, front loading): WED9150WW1 When activating the dryer, it'll run for 3-5 seconds, then shuts off, with settings still lit. After 5 - 10 minutes, it'll activate by itself again, but again will only run for 3-5 seconds then shuts off again. It cycles like this. The problem occurs on BOTH timed setting and automatic dry setting. I tested the motor and it is good, along with all rollers. I replaced the following parts: dryer thermister, dryer thermal fuse, sensor bars, sensor wiring, broken belt switch, and belt. Please help. What am I missing?

1 Answer

Alex, I will send you a tech sheet and i want you to go into diagnostics and see if any error codes exist. Very possibly a control issue cutting voltage to the motor. But an error code will give us a place to start.

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1 Answer

Gary, If the thermal cutoff has continuity then this would indicate that they are good. If they do not show continuity then they are faulty.

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1 Answer

Hello Casey, You will need to activate the diagnostic test mode to read any saved fault codes. These will point you to the problem with the unit. ACTIVATING THE DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODE: 1. Be sure the dryer is in standby mode (plugged in with all indicators off, or with only the Done indicator on). 2. Select any one button (except Pause/Cancel and Controls Lock/Unlock) and follow the steps below, using the same button (remember the button): Press/hold 2 seconds. Release for 2 seconds. Press/hold 2 seconds. Release for 2 seconds. Press/hold 2 seconds 3. If this test mode has been entered successfully, all indicators on the console are illuminated for 5 seconds with 8:88 showing in the Estimated Time Remaining three-digit display. If there are no saved fault codes or active fault codes, all indicators on the console will momentarily turn off, then stay on with 8:88 displayed. Continue with diagnostics. 4. If entry into Diagnostic Test Mode is unsuccessful, choose a different button (except Pause Cancel and Controls Lock/Unlock) and repeat step 2.

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1 Answer

Hello Sebastien, You should check the door switch WP8283288, the belt switch 279782, the thermal fuse WP3392519, and the control board WP8546219. If all is good, the motor 279787 and/or wiring harness 8529984 is going to be in question. I'm sorry but the main harness 8529984 has been discontinued by the manufacturer and no satisfactory substitutions have been provided. Thank you for your patience and understanding in this matter.

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1 Answer

Hello Reno. Usually these are damaged due to a restricted vent or air flow issue. In some cases the heater can stay on due to being grounded out and cause these to blow as well. Thank you.

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1 Answer

Hello Rose, we've sent you an email with the part installation instructions. Hope this helps!

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