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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Thermal Fuse by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18024984
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3392519

Stop dryer downtime in its tracks — install the Whirlpool WP3392519 OEM Thermal Fuse in minutes.

OEM Quality Fast 1–2 Day Shipping* Free Tech Help

Why choose this fuse?

  • Guaranteed OEM: built by Whirlpool to Whirlpool specs — no risky aftermarket clones.
  • Broad compatibility: works with Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Roper & more.
  • Quick delivery: over 94 % of APP orders arrive in 2 days or less.

Fixes these common dryer problems

Problem How the fuse is involved
Dryer won’t start Blown fuse interrupts motor circuit
No heat / not enough heat Heater circuit disabled for safety
Cycle ends early Over-temp trip stops cycle
Control panel dead Power to controls interrupted


4-step DIY installation (≈10 min)

  1. Unplug dryer and remove rear panel.
  2. Locate thermal fuse on blower housing.
  3. Transfer wires; secure new fuse with ¼-inch nut-driver.
  4. Clean the vent & lint path before testing to prevent repeat failure.

*Video tutorial below.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Fuse (Part Number: OEM18024984)

1 Answer

Belinda, The most likely cause for the unit to not heat properly would be a faulty cycling thermostat if the heat is coming and going.

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1 Answer

Hello Kyle, There are few things that can cause this issue. The most common cause is the ducting in the home. If it has a crimped, clogged, or excessive long duct it will trap the heat in the cabinet and open the thermal fuse. If the exhaust has filled with condensate water or a dryer sheet has gotten into the blower wheel or if a seal like the drum seal is missing, the thermal fuse will fail. Remember, the thermal fuse will only open from excessive heat inside the unit cabinet so you will be looking for an air flow issue.

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Bob for Model Number 11061202011

I have a 3 year old Kenmore electric dryer model 11061202011. Several times recently my wife complained it was not gettng hot. After work I checked and it seemed fine each time. The drum turns. It is not clogged - I checked the rigid metal vent and the back of the dryer. They are both clear. Air comes forcefully out the back of the dryer but its not warm or hot. The switch on the front is NOT set to air dry. The fuse box has two fuses for the dryer, both are on. I checked the two thermostats in part 279816. They each appear to show continuity. I pulled the heating element assembly (279838). It showed continuity. I pulled the high limit stat(3977767) It showed continuity - I believe this part is also included with: 279816. I pulled and checked the thermal fuse(3392519), the local appliance dealer said he believed that if this part was bad the dryer would not function at all. Nevertheless, it showed continuity. I noted one other part, two red wires, two purple. I showed the local dealer a picture of it and he thought that if this part was bad the dryer would not function at all. Nevertheless, red / red showed continuity as did purple to purple. I know continuity does not guaranty the part is good. I am not sure what to try next or what parts to pehaps try to swap out first.

1 Answer

Hello Bob, Check for continuity through the centrifugal switch in the motor 279827. This is a common failure especially if a ducting issue has ever been an issue. There should be no continuity with the dryer not running but if you manually shift the switch with a screwdriver, it should read no resistance.

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Paul for Model Number WED9200SQ1

I have a whirlpool electric dryer. Went to turn on and motor does not start. Lights on the control panel work and timer counts down but dryer does not start. I checked door switch and power which is good. I found the tech manual under front cover and put it in diagnostic mode and got F-22 error code which according to manual means outlet thermistor open. I then went to test it according to tech sheet. The resistance on the thermistor seems to agree which then it says to replace control board. A new board is over $200.00 and a thermistor is $10.00. How can I be sure which is bad? Should the thermistor have continuity at all because when I check for continuity there is none. I don't want to keep changing parts.

1 Answer

Hello Paul. Make sure the belt and the thermal fuse are good. If so, and the thermistor ohms out good, you will need to replace the control board on the unit.

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1 Answer

Mary, Yes you will want to check the thermal fuse. To do this you will set the meter to ohms and if it reads open then the part will be faulty.

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1 Answer

Hello Karen. Based on the information you provided, you need to check and see if the motor 279827 is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit.

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1 Answer

Scott, Try to disconnect the vent from the back of the dryer and run a cycle to see if it dries. If it dries properly then the issue will be the venting from inside the home to the outside of the home having an obstruction. This is more likely than the cycling thermostat although if it is clear then that would be the most common reason.

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